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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Le Nouveau Riche (5.10b PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: How rusted is "very rusted"? Some pics would help. I've replaced quite a few bolts & hangers lately and although they were rusted on the surface, the underside of the wedge bolt nut, or Rawl bolt were just fine.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Krishna & Serenity Spire : Bobby's Wall (5.10c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I could only identify one bolt remaining on this climb if I have the location correct. The remaining bolt is way down low below a short crack/flake section.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : High Pockets (5.11a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the top anchors was provided courtesy of ASCA - many thanks to them. The rest of the hardware was supplied by the Devil's Head Crew (Rampart Range Rocks guidebook). Additionally, more loose blocks were cleaned, some probably loosened by the big chunk that came off not too long ago. Everything should be pretty solid now, but it's still best to not stand directly under the climber on this one, & you won't when you belay anyway as the climb angles a bit. Finally, thanks to Bob for spotti... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Dolphin Dancing (5.11c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Needs a hardware upgrade.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Wild Kippers (5.11a/b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, still a little bit of cleaning to be done on this one, but I think it will end up being a good route though.
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : BT Express (5.11b/c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first 5.11 lead 30 plus years ago now. I still remember feeling like I was bad ass after sending that rig. No ball nuts or TCUs back then, but we did have RPs and those tiny Chouninard wired stoppers, classic line.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Micro Chip (5.13a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job, Derek, I heard a yelp from around the corner, didn't realize that it was the send.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's good to know that the pathetic morons haven't made it that far south yet, but an infestation could occur at any time.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You know I was looking through the two most recent Shelf guidebooks and found that almost all of the bolt counts for each route were different between the two books. Although it doesn't matter to me at all, it seems unfathomable that some pathetic moron hasn't called out a safety concern on that.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The Opportunist (5.9)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last hanger is still missing 3/5/13, all it needs is the hanger and a nut for a wedge bolt. The bolts still appears to be sound.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Schmauser - Bohannon Route (5.11)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, that's a truly amazing talent, knowing exactly what routes everyone was doing before you were even born. Maybe someday I'll find some more ancient photos of me climbing 5.11 Splatte trad routes, like the one of the first ascent in colorful garb of Secret Climb One, or whatever it's called at Twisted Sister, and post those up on the internet somewhere.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Trundle (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunately whoever put this route in should have learned how trundle. The perched block left behind in the chimney was easy dislodged by a mere bump and rolled right through all of the climbers at the base of Staying Power. There are still 2 big blocks sitting on the ledge at the base. If you're going to bolt routes, do all of the cleaning or don't bolt them at all. Plus, the upper part of the route is botched, too.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Uncle Wiggly (5.10c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually in between Castle Corner and Throne Room and begins close to Castle Corner.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Coal Creek Canyon : 6th FlatIron : Sand-Witch (5.7)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I live in the Blue Mountain Estates as do a number of climbers actually, and if this is one of the crags in the valley, it is on private land for sure. I think the Bisque family owns most of the interesting looking crags, and they haven't been all that amenable to climbing as far as I know. Before heading up onto one of those formations, I'd make sure you know exactly whose land you accessing & get their explicit approval. JeffCo has all of the property ownership records on-line.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : At Fault for Chattery (5.10b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Specifically what looked bad about the bolts? I'm ... sure if I actually put the bolts in to begin with, I seem to recall SMC hangers.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Sidewinder (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems like there are some errors with the MP system from time to time on the 2nd route entry page.
This route is located a ways to the right of Seven Sharp beginning with a right angling crack near some roofs that leads up to a slab with 3 or so bolts.
Gear to 3.5".
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Hubba Bubba (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is located in between Jo Bubba and Wake of the Flood. It begins off a block and goes up past a 3 bolts to a thin crack and ends at the anchor shared by many routes.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Humphrey's Dome : Evening Light (5.9+)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route starts up Carpe Diem but branches right along a crack aiming for a slab above. The second, 9+ pitch heads up the slab past a few bolts to an old 2-bolt anchor.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Humphrey's Dome : Carpe Diem (5.10c R)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts were old and scary in the 1980s when I did this, can't imagine what they're like now.
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Location: CO : Golden : Ralston Buttes
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glen,
As you noted noted the closure of this area is completely unjustified and utter BS. It took a long time, but the taxpaying public was able to gain changes to the restrictions in the Flatirons, maybe the same could be done at Ralston. The Access Fund, Colorado Mountain Club, and Alpine Club may be able to assist.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, except I pointed my foot downward along the crack instead of straight in, a minor distinction, but it seemed to make the move much more static. It's great when you can sponge beta from one of your buddies and get the send!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A slightly downward heel toe cam with the left foot makes that move go a lot easier.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob, first thanks for taking the initiative to help out with some items in CCC, your efforts makes the area better for all of us. It appears that you are trying to address a condition arising from abandoned or intentionally donated fixed draws. It seems that there are three options for dealing with sub-par draws left on routes, they can be removed, left as is, or upgraded. For the last two options, these draws then become something that the climbing community needs to continually maintain.
... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a reason why not to add fixed draws - nobody maintains them and they become hazards:
www.rockandice.com/news/2301-fatal-accident-fixed-draw-cuts->>>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At least one TV-sized block with a hangerless bolt in it came from Natural Selection earlier this summer and is near the base of that route. Don't know if that helps confirm even more recent rockfall or not.
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