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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Gibraltar Rock : Sedona's Scenic Cruise (5.9)
By: TylerW When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few thoughts after doing this route for the 4th time this weekend:
- #4 Camelot is totally optional, although two #3s is sure nice.
- the final 50yds of the trail seems like it's gotten much worse over the past year or so.. Anybody else notice this?
- for the full value experience, instead of rapping you can top the climb out all the way to committee tank/schnebly hill road -- quite an adventure! It took us 45 min for the approach, 2.5 hours for the climb, and 7 more hours to get to s...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cloud's Rest : My Favorite Things (5.10a) : Photo
By: TylerW When: Jul 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for uploading this!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Bear Canyon : Bear Crack (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: TylerW When: Jun 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good dog...
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Circus Circus (5.9+ PG13)
By: TylerW When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would give this 3 stars if you didn't start in a tree and if I didn't almost crap my pants pulling those final moves and pulling on those loose blocks. Other than that it was a super fun little obscurity
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Hard Rain (5.9)
By: TylerW When: Feb 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the Karabin foldout shows this as pegleg 1. I imagine Paul is probably the more authoritative source...
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : PegLeg I, II (5.8+)
By: TylerW When: Feb 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the Karabin fold out, it looks like Pegleg 1 and 2 are a bit different from this picture (the Karabin guide shows Pegleg 1 going up and cutting right beneath nickel slot and Pegleg 2 going where this picture shows Pegleg 1 going... I guess I should trust the first ascentionist, but any idea on the discrepancy?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Burger King (5.8)
By: TylerW When: Feb 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: some looseness on the lower part, especially the buckled pillar inside the slot at the bottom, but the climbing is surprisingly good and moderate.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Fresh Air (5.8)
By: TylerW When: Feb 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Paul - I think the above description is for the wrong route. I Did this today and it wasn't dirty at all and really fun. The key is to make sure you cut hard left and get on the arete. once there pro looks like it will be tricky because of the thin crack but there are plenty of placements. Hidden gem!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Trundlers Club (5.11-)
By: TylerW When: Jan 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: agree with markguycan - approach is very sketchy for a dog. we brought ours per the approach described (the one with the hand line and the limestone traverse) and he wasn't very happy. on the way back we walked straight down to chicken point and it was no problem - in fact I would recommend this approach if you'd rather have something a bit longer but scenic and mellow, or if you're bringing a dog.
one of my favorite routes in sedona.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Skinheads (5.10d)
By: TylerW When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: crux for me was the mantle at the third bolt. also, the boulder problem start is no joke (don't use the tree!). from the topo I thought it would ease to 5.8 the rest of the way but there are a number of 10b and 10c cruxes to come. it doesn't let up until you clip the anchors! can be TR'd with single 70m with ~5 ft to spare.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : G-Man (5.11b)
By: TylerW When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: it seems you can go left or right at the second bolt (the crux). left may well be 11b (I didn't go that way but it looked very possible) - the right variation I would put at 10bish which makes for a great link up with bookem dano and keeps the rating to 10d for the both.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: TylerW When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: bailed from the top of the 7th pitch (supertopo pitches) in late june due to massive amounts of water from horsetail falls. it seems that it was an abnormally wet year. we checked horsetail from the base and it didn't seem to be making it to the route but things were quite different when we got up there. we did pitch 7 around 11AM and there was maybe 1-5mm thick water sheeting down the rock. doing the mini roof in these conditions was pretty exciting, but it looked like the route was soaked ... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : ... : Photo
By: TylerW When: Jun 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: those blue lines were some people rigging 2 highlines (long and short)
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Elysian Buttress : Mechanical Persistence (5.11a/b)
By: TylerW When: May 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: D. Cole and P. Rullman Fall 2002
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Crow's Nest (5.10+)
By: TylerW When: May 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Paul - you're not doing the route if you only do the last 40 ft... starts with a fun off-fingers crack that looks like it doesn't get done often, to a few mantles and finger cracks up the ledges. totally worth doing from the bottom.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Hidden Dome : Too Secret to Find (5.10b)
By: TylerW When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anybody know what was up with the old guidebook rating of 10d? did something fall off revealing a bigger hold? a typo? felt soft even for 10b.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Hidden Dome : Balance Due (5.10b)
By: TylerW When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's funny - I thought screaming poodle was maybe 1 letter grade easier. At least the crux. Very different styles, for sure, and definitely significantly harder than too secret to find.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Hidden Dome : The Screaming Poodle (5.10c)
By: TylerW When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock is somewhat questionable down low, although the moves are moderate and fun. The crux up high is powerful and on good rock.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Invisible Touch (5.10b)
By: TylerW When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree - this route does all of the interesting part of invisibility lessons and then throws in an exciting traverse and techy seams at the top. My favorite route on future games. Leading the traverse could be pretty hairy.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : Queen Victoria
By: TylerW When: Feb 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun, easier, scenic, but longer approach is to approach as per epitaph - and hike to the saddle between flying buttress and moose's butte from east, then hike along a nice trail on the north side of moose's butte. It's probably a mile longer, but there's no scrambling up washes and the terrain is really awesome.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Trundler's Club Buttress
By: TylerW When: Feb 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct (or less direct, depending on how you look at it) approach from chicken point is also a pretty good way to go. Definitely more dog friendly if that is a concern - plus you get to scope out your line from a distance.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Oak Tree Flake (5.6)
By: TylerW When: Nov 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: decent TR for introducing first timers to climbing
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: TylerW When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: a few things: 1) the Bloom Topo is completely wrong - it shows a picture of the wrong side of flying buttress. 2) when we did it this weekend I found a bail anchor with a cam. If you can identify the brand/size and location of the cam, and furnish a convincing story of why you needed to leave it, I'll consider being a good samaritan and return it. 3) Also, I don't know about "easiest in Sedona"... I thought the rock was slightly worse than many other Sedona routes I've done and the climbing se... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Gibraltar Rock : Sedona's Scenic Cruise (5.9)
By: TylerW When: Oct 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route and I feel like I should add to the rappel beta. our 60m rope didn't reach from the slopey ledge near the top of p3 to the anchors in the slot near the top of p1. it was close; we made it to the ledge with a few feet left. it could be that our ropes were short because they're old, but just a warning, you may not make it to the anchors in the slot.
Overall the route was pretty fun. I felt like it kept getting better and better.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: TylerW When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. Best route I've done in RR? Definitely do not miss the 4th pitch - it was fantastically fun. Not quite as hard as the 2nd pitch crux, IMO. The giant shark fin block was a little scary; it seemed solid vertically, but when touched it moved a few inches to the left. I don't think it's going anywhere though. I still can't quite get over how much fun this route was.
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