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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact twellman

Point Rank: # 2,374
Total Points: 263
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has twellman been climbing?










Contributions


All 861 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 128 | Posts 2 | Stars 623 | Ratings 88
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Raven Crack (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: 4 stars for the chimney to layback pitch. I agree with Andrea that a bolt anchor atop this pitch would be ideal, as the last pitch is only good for the first 30 feet then degrades into loose rock everywhere. Overall a very worthwhile Cannon adventure with great pro on the hard parts.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : K Wall (aka M Face) : Tensile Strength (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: The new bolts are especially disappointing because: (1) They start on Tensile Strength and finish on Pins, not following the original line of Tensile Strength. No one would have argued with replacing those old bolts with quality gear, but putting in a new link-up is poor form. (2) The bolting job is not the best. A couple are spinners, a couple are not perpendicular to the rock, and the nuts are suspiciously close to the ends of the studs on others. Also, the anchor below the top is silly given ... more >>


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : Q Wall : Thank You, Scott (5.12c/d R)
By: twellman When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: You can climb it with or without the drill hole, and it is easier if you use it. Whether it is "on" is a matter of personal preference.

There are 2 glue in bolts about 3 feet right of the crack. I am not sure what was going through the head of the person that placed them. The first one needs to be stick clipped (~12 feet up), and the second one can't be clipped until you reach the ledge (~20 feet up), risking groundfall if you fall going for it. And they are out of reach if you are climbing the... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Pulse Wall : Toy Story (5.9) : Photo
By: twellman When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Nice extension. Gotta watch out for the drag on this one...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: twellman When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Last pitch is indeed not obvious to find. It is about 20 feet right of a small tree on the GT ledge, 10 feet left around the corner from three pines anchor, as described above. I also thought this pitch was harder than 5.8, with tricky pro and potential for falling back onto the GT ledge. But super fun anyway!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Infinity Wall : Upper Right : Gettin' Started (5.6)
By: twellman When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Yup there is now a 2-bolt anchor atop this one.


Location: NH : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Put My Foot Where? (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Slightly overhanging? This is most certainly a slab climb, with slabby crux moves.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : Jane (5.11a PG13)
By: twellman When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: I second Kevin's opinion that the gear is great on this, no way it's PG-13. In fact, I would even say it's a good first 5.11 lead. You can even scope most of the gear from the ground (primarily finger-sized pieces).

A lot of fun moves are crammed in those first 40 feet to the anchor!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12a)
By: twellman When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this recently, and it definitely seemed like groundfall territory when getting near the top. It is likely missing a bolt, because I didn't remember this from climbing it a couple years ago, and I only clipped 5 this time. Even though it is easy climbing, a broken hold could equal a serious injury. Hopefully someone local can rectify it soon.

Anyway, this is a fun, crimpy, soft 11d.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Bruja's Brew (5.9)
By: twellman When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: I though this route was easily as good as Lotta Balls and Black Magic. Great variety on the first pitch (don't miss the bolt around the corner once the Lotta Balls anchor is in sight), spicy second pitch, WILD but easy 3rd pitch, and fun easy corner to finish. Overall a great route with some spicy easier climbing but good pro for the hard parts.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Heaven (5.11a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: He looks pretty happy in the corner to me... in fact, one might even say he's in heaven.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Pinnacle & Forgotten Boulde... : Cracker Jack (V1)
By: twellman When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: The sit start it pretty good, probly more like V2. Fun problem.


Location: OR : Willamette Valley : Flagstone : North Wall : Joy Luck Club (5.12a)
By: twellman When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: This is one excellent sport climb. Hard almost all of the way, multiple cruxes and rests, super well bolted, and great to project. Get on it if you're up there!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Apocalypse Later (5.11c/d)
By: twellman When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Ed, it should be noted that: (a) several of the people who gave this route 4 stars have climbed all over Rumney, and well beyond, and still consider this a great route; and (b) despite all of your long-winded complaints, you didn't even vote on the quality of the route. Fortunately, you only get one vote. Maybe you are mad that your own routes aren't getting higher star ratings?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Photo
By: twellman When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: looks high on the hill... any good looking lines on it?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Tin Man (5.13a)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: It seems the Tin Man is now missing his "heart"... how fitting.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Short Circuit (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Crazy opening move (wouldn't want to miss... you'd certainly come back down onto the boulder) and fun easier climbing to the top.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : The Pygmies Got Stoned (5.10a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Actually, dead on... the bolts are all a big reach out left to clip. It is a bit of a joke.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Superratic Pillar : Great White Behemoth (5.12a/b)
By: twellman When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Probably was a bit more perfect (and easier) in its earlier days... a bit polished now. Wonderful climbing nonetheless!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Always Keep it Loaded (5.12a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: This photo, and the one in the guide, make it seem like the route is overhung. Not true! It climbs more like a steep slab, never quite making it to vertical.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Wall of Denial : Zombie Leprachauns (5.11d)
By: twellman When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Very fun route, will get better with more traffic. Though probably not 5.12 overall, there is a whole lot of 5.11 climbing on this one!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Buffalo Pit
By: twellman When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I've seen that route too, all lonely out there.... it'd not the 11d (not in the book at all), looks more like 5.9 or 5.10.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Infinity Wall
By: twellman When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey Lee. A friend of mine and I put up that slab last fall. We used the bolts from the crack anchor to clean/bolt it, and were planning to come back and put in an anchor, but forgot about it. I'll go out sometime in the near future and take care of it. It's probably about 5.6, short but nice edgy slab climbing. It will be a good way to get up there to set up a toprope on the cracks. I'll add it to MP after we finish it.


Location: NH : *Rumney
By: twellman When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: Anyone know if you can use the America the Beautiful national parks pass for parking at Rumney? Maybe you just leave the card on your dashboard?


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Scuttlebutt (5.6)
By: twellman When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Lee, I think it would be appropriate to remove the PG13 rating, given the super safe bolting of the climb. Wouldn't want anyone to miss out on scuttling their butt up this one because of a false sense of danger.


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