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Location: NH : Rumney
By: twellman When: May 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know if you can use the America the Beautiful national parks pass for parking at Rumney? Maybe you just leave the card on your dashboard?
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Scuttlebutt (5.6 PG13)
By: twellman When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lee, I think it would be appropriate to remove the PG13 rating, given the super safe bolting of the climb. Wouldn't want anyone to miss out on scuttling their butt up this one because of a false sense of danger.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Infinity Wall
By: twellman When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the infinity wall this past summer by continuing out past the bakery for about 10 minutes, passing a few small crags without much potential on the way. When we got to the wall, we said, hmm this looks cool, let's put our stuff down here and go find the infinity wall. After about 30 minutes aimlessly searching, we found our way back and then realized that it was actually the infinity wall. So, in conclusion, it is not as impressive as its name may imply. Marks description is good, and it ... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b) : Photo
By: twellman When: Dec 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: haha nice lee. thought i saw some blue smears last time i was up there. was this the FSA?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Photo
By: twellman When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probly LeCours Heli-Tours, LLC.
It's funny how the clippity slab is almost exactly 45 degrees. I'm almost tempted to get out my protractor to confirm this.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b)
By: twellman When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha Lee clearly it was the clothes holding you back. If you take your pants off, you'll probly send China Beach next weekend.... if you can find someone to belay you.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : Primitive Times (5.8)
By: twellman When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this could be a nice climb if it were thoroughly cleaned and retrobolted. The corner certainly is a nice feature, and the reason it's so dirty is because no one climbs it, being a non-splitter trad route at Rumney. Anyone else have an opinion on this?
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Airation (5.11a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin, how did you mislabel yourself as someone else?
Seeing your fingers in those locks makes me want to go climb this again...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Fish Corner (5.10b R)
By: twellman When: Sep 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also think this is deserving of a lower, stick-clippable bolt. The corner is quite fun, and I think the reason no one climbs it is because all the bolts are after the crux!
Mark, does the bolt need to be a glue-in?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mesresha (project) (5.12+)
By: twellman When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After seeing this route the other day in person, I don't see the big problem with it, as long as the potential loose rock has been thoroughly cleaned, which it sounds like Mike took care of. Although I don't think it'll get much traffic (a 12+ in a sea of classic 10's, with classic 12+'s just up the hill), it is pretty discrete, hiding behind the trees there (except for the red tape! Mike, did you send it yet?). If it's a squeeze, then so are Techno and Aquarius, but no one is going to complain ... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall
By: twellman When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the info Mark. Is it the cut-leaf toothwort, the same one they put up the fence near Flesh for? I think it would be helpful for someone with good knowledge of the rare plants in the area to put some of that info (and photos if possible) here on MP. Most people, including myself, wouldn't know the difference between rare plants and weeds. Maybe we could work that out with someone from the forest service.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall
By: twellman When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know what the deal is with the anchors on top of the tallish section of cliff that is straight up from the bathrooms, very close to the parking lot, about 200 feet left of the Meadows Flow ice climbs? Looks like some pretty dirty chossy rock... maybe they're also for ice climbing?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Flying Squirrel (5.11a)
By: twellman When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is fun fun fun. The initial swinging boulder problem is very unique climbing!
I am taller (6') and obviously that makes grabbing the first holds easier, but getting your feet up and under you is easier for shorties! I thought 11a was a fair grade, it is a bouldery opening sequence.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows
By: twellman When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha I just noticed that the quick clip in the picture is only rated at 11 kN. I guess the number decreases as the clip gets worn. Fixe has some pretty impressive technology these days!
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Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Cold Feet (5.10 R)
By: twellman When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems like that could just as easily make the gear worse... but I hope it does get better so I can lead it next time I'm there!
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : Mr. Popular (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this today after doing Captain Fingers, and getting off the ground made me feel like I was still on Captain Fingers! Super hard for "5.9". Probably more like a V2 then 5.7. I guess at Rumney that somewhow averages out to 5.9 though haha.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Diedre Area : Diedre (5.10a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Spang! Seems like everyone does that sequence a little differently. Is that a cam hanging next to the draw?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Oak Tree Flake (5.6) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim Burton would like this photo. Very nice.
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Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Cold Feet (5.10 R)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried this on toprope. It felt a bit contrived, but was a fun little boulder problem anyway. Grade seems dependent on exactly where you pull the roof. A couple of small nuts in the seam just over the roof would be solid, but perhaps hard to place from below.
The crux gear is marginal, but could improve with traffic?? I didn't know gear gets better with traffic haha...
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Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Lost and Found (5.10c/d)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a bit sandbagged at 10b in the new guide. I was glad to see it at 10c here.
A fun route that really tests your balance!
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Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Cake Walk Area : Above and Beyond (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The nut on the second bolt of pitch 3 was loose when I climbed this the other day. I hand-tightened it, but if someone has the foresight to bring a wrench, it could use a good torqueing!
A very fun outing, with well-proctected cruxes, nice belays, and good exposure and views.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands...
By: twellman When: Aug 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That left-angling chimney looks pretty long and wild. Has anyone climbed it? Is it climbable, or full of muck?
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Asylum : I had a Good Name, but I fo... (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Aug 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Retro Spade = 3 boulder problems with full rests between, no? Very quality and uniquely Rumney-esque, no doubt, but if you suggest that the short routes aren't as classic, it's funny that you'd also suggest a route made of stacked boulder problems to replace them!
On another note, summit cliff looks stacked with some awesome 11's, and I can't wait to get up there this fall.
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Location: NH : Green's Cliff
By: twellman When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone ever tried the approach from the sawyer pond trail? It looks like it would be a bit shorter, but perhaps from sawyer pond to the cliffs would be a bushwhack? Seems like this could be a good way to access the northeast crags.
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Location: MA : Rattlesnake Rocks : Ship's Prow : Rainbow Coalition (5.11+)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: John, when you say start just left of the chimney, do you mean the first chimney of Double Chimney? Is this the face with tiny crimps to the left but right of Mulatto arete?
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