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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: tsuji When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^Joseph,
There are no eyebolts on this route. There is a nest of webbing at the end of the third pitch traverse, but that's the only fixed anchor I can remember. If you've done much climbing, you shouldn't have trouble building an anchor at the end of any of the pitches.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: tsuji When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sweet route. On the approach the fixed rope is currently there for the descent and in decent shape. I tried combining the last two pitches using a single rope and got stopped by some heinous rope drag. It might have worked with double ropes but I would advise against it with only a single. Also, the summit register was gone, maybe the next party could bring up a spare nalgene?
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Convulsions (5.11b)
By: tsuji When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't realize the bolts end after the roof and ended up climbing quite a ways with no pro. Bring some small cams!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: tsuji When: Feb 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're trying to get from 3 to 1 with two 60's be careful! The anchor is right at the end of the 60's and it wouldn't be hard to go off the ends of the ropes if you forgot to tie knots.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Buttress : Wind Tree (5.9)
By: tsuji When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good views, not very good climbing for the approach
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c)
By: tsuji When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this one a couple days ago and didn't notice anything too loose at the bottom of changing corners. The loose flake on the pitch after the enduro is still there though. It makes an interesting, almost metallic sound when you hit it.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Tyndall : North Rib (3rd)
By: tsuji When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a bad scramble. Obvious, fun line to the top
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Photo
By: tsuji When: Jul 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not at all
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: tsuji When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only one small (5'x5') snow patch in the dihedral. Go get it!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: tsuji When: Jun 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today and no wasps. Pretty cool line!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Wingtip (5.10c PG13)
By: tsuji When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today and did not have a #6 BD like Tommy recommended. It would have been nice to have right off the deck!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice : Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 (M5)
By: tsuji When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday. The infamous snow mushroom forced us around to the right into some tough terrain. Topped out before two which made us think that this isn't quite a grade IV route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Right Crack (5.7)
By: tsuji When: May 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not really worth doing this route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: tsuji When: Apr 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well put Timmy, I've only been making the drive to the creek for the last four years but seeing the parking lot was a bit hard for me. Then I have to think back to Ed Abby's time when the road to the needles wasn't even paved and we all just have to come to terms with the fact that change is inevitable.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: tsuji When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second best climb and desert summit I've been on (still can't beat Lightning Bolt Cracks although this comes super close). I couldn't believe how tall this tower was!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: tsuji When: Apr 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found CFK to be a lot harder. The bulge on the "2nd pitch" is tricky until you do it a couple of times, then it is mellow yellow.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Beckey-Chouinard (5.10)
By: tsuji When: Apr 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: To those who have climbed this route. At the headwall there is a crack that splits the middle of the face. The standard rout follows a crack system that goes to the left of this. The crack that splits the face is called loves lust(???) I think and it goes at 10+. Has anybody done this? It looks great and I am heading back there to repeat this route and want to try this. Any information is appreciated.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Slab : ... : Photo
By: tsuji When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha this is a picture of me from last summer, fun day
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : SW Corner (5.6)
By: tsuji When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best 5.6 climbs I've done!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10)
By: tsuji When: Dec 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this for the third time last week, wanted to say thanks for replacing the drilled pins on the second pitch!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: tsuji When: Nov 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I got our ropes stuck coming off in some crazy winds. $100 reward for their return, we will pay shipping to boulder!!!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: tsuji When: Oct 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts should not have been pulled. I led all of the pitches last fall and though I didn't pull or rest on any of them they did not take away from the climb and allowed several people I was climbing with to follow the route. If indeed they were pulled (and I don't doubt it since these particular bolts were bomber only a year ago) the person who pulled them should be banned from the awesomeness that is Utah desert climbing.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Sandy Vag (V1)
By: tsuji When: May 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hahaha
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Needles : Sunlight Spire : ... : Photo
By: tsuji When: Apr 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sir, I believe it's Sunlight Peak, not Sunlight Mt. Get it right, Doug.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Platinum Curl (5.11b/c)
By: tsuji When: Dec 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy climbing with one tough move, 11b.
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