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CroMagnon


Member Since: May 18, 2007
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 572
Total Points: 1,093
Last Year: 13
Last 30 Days: 11
49 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has tscupp been climbing?










Contributions


All 895 | Routes 31 | Areas 11 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 16 | Stars 391 | Ratings 292
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Solar Collector/Gold Coast : Decline of Western Civiliza... (5.10a)
By: tscupp When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: I believe this is the furthest left, not right line at SC.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : Mosaic (5.12c)
By: tscupp When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: There is now a cable permadraw at that last bolt which allows for you to clip at the 2 finger pocket. Good climb with potential for good air if you come up short on that final long move to the jug at the anchors.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : The Reliquary (5.12b)
By: tscupp When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: What a great route! I enjoyed this even more than tissue tiger and felt it was a bit harder. I wouldn't put it at 12c but it felt harder than some of the other 12c's I've done or been on at the red.

Just to add to description and some beta (don't read if you don't want to know): bouldery start getting past the second bolt on some slopey pinches with both a left or right variation depending on which hand goes in the two finger pocket before you return to the sea of chalked pockets with mostly ... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium
By: tscupp When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Be wary of wasps on the upper half of many of these routes during the summer.


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : B-b-buttress (5.9)
By: tscupp When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this sunday and had similar experience as Ming. Messy start with a lack of a left foot unless you use the rotting tree/stump and even still it makes for a sketchy second clip with the first bolt not protecting much other than a tumble down hill. I tried to clean some holds of dirt but it will probably need a thorough cleaning either right or left before it feels good to climb.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Eye of the Needle (5.11b)
By: tscupp When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: I'd recommend staying right and in the crack until you're about even with the third bolt. Trying to go up the left arete will probably put you in no holds land pretty quickly.


Location: NH : Rumney
By: tscupp When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Group next to us found a pair of Miura Lace ups at New Wave Wall. Placed at parking lot info sign.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right : High Roller (5.11c)
By: tscupp When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: I made a toss near the end of the crux sequence which was pretty memorable with all that space up there. The hold I threw to was a big flat left hand below the ledge that I matched afterwards. My partner went to it R handed and static but with my foot positioning it was easier to go L (and I'll venture more exciting). All-in-all, great route with wonderful positioning. I was lamenting that Rumney doesn't have as many classic 11+ as it does mid 12's but then you discover routes like this and ... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress : Yellow Knife (5.10c)
By: tscupp When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: The description covers it very well, but this was the most fun I had on a Rumney route in quite a while. A bit of a Sport Climbing adventure from the mossy wet start, followed by the "loose flake" that you think the guidebook is referring to and then the REALLY loose flake. The upper third is pretty awesome and would be extremely popular if the rest of the route climbed so well with some great edges and no chalk giving that true onsight feel.

Highly recommend bringing a few long draws in the ... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b) : Photo
By: tscupp When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Hey Lee, it was nice to finally meet ya. Congrats on the send!


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Peace Dove Boulder : Warhawk (V5)
By: tscupp When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: The start is both awkward and strenuous - left handed undercling and right hand on the arete. Find some way to make you feet work for you (R heel around arete and low smear with left work for me). The final hold is the typical lincoln woods coarse granite so beware.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Prime Climb (5.11b)
By: tscupp When: Sep 15, 2010

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Comments: Pleasantly deceptive. The slabby arete looks innocuous from the ground but contains some tricky moves and you can climb yourself into some irreversible situations if you don't think a few moves ahead.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Tropicana (5.11a)
By: tscupp When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Can you link both pitches and second with a 70m? I know it wouldn't really add any value to the climb because of the belay ledge but I'm just curious if it is possible.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : J Wall (aka L Face) : Ladder Line (5.11c)
By: tscupp When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: In the Boston Rocks 2nd ed., they list this as just 5.10. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who thought this was WAY harder than that.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Whip Tide (5.12b) : Photo
By: tscupp When: Aug 11, 2010

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Comments: It's a bit of a funny story - the climber meant to do whiptide, but didn't know it broke right so he ended up finishing on Man Overboard. I thought both use that hold though? Is it just that most finishing on Whip tide don't do the bat hang or is that hold not used?


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Cold Shoulder (5.12b)
By: tscupp When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: Short but very crimpy. Even though there are a few eases in difficulty, I found it pretty sustained until you are just below the finish. Lee described the finish well - I took the right exit and didn't really know what I was holding on to but it just sort of worked until I could move up to a good crimp and the mantle.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Chicken Parts (5.10a)
By: tscupp When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: The low crux makes for a tricky onsight for the grade.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Espresso (5.10d)
By: tscupp When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: This is sort of a nit-picky question but I'm curious as to what is considered the true line at the start? I did one way pretty close to the bolt line (maybe a little left) and found it very hard - much harder than anything else on the climb and a second way that was right of the bolt line and used a little bit of the rock to the side making it much easier but more consistent with the rest of the climb.

Any thoughts?

This is a great 10+, so much fun blasting through those monster jugs from th... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7)
By: tscupp When: Aug 2, 2010

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Comments: I just wanted to add a little bit of info that comes from the Sykes guidebook. For the first pitch, which as Jay mentions feels harder than 5.4, it is 5.6 directly up the corner with the 5.6 move being in the first few feet before you reach the horizontal cracks - it can be a little unnerving as this part is sometimes damp and needs wider gear. To keep it at 5.4 or 5.5, hand traverse in from the right.

On pitch 2, the guidebook indicates that the right exposed crack is 5.6 and the left is 5.7... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Warm Up Cave : Photo
By: tscupp When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: I figured I'd add a few more climbs to the picture but not the page since I haven't done them.

Clutch V8 or 9 - Direct sit to Neil's Lunge - start on flat shelf/jug below the flake, make hard left handed move up to a pinch, join the flake and finish on NL.

Gassed Off V8 - Start on Cave roof's underclings, move right and join rump to jump on the undercling flakes. Alternatively, after you reach the flakes of Rump to Jump, move up and left to finish on New Direction (V7).


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Horse Cave
By: tscupp When: Jul 21, 2010

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Comments: I think this is meant to be go left after the yosemite boulder. Right takes you to the Tuolumne boulder.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Metamorphosis (5.8+)
By: tscupp When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: Did this for the first time and it is now my new favorite moderate line (first pitch only). Holds are good and the moves are fun and continuous up the ramp and above. The line never seems to end which was great. The only thing that detracts from this route was the rope drag which made clipping up high a pain so perhaps long slings down low would help this, but it could also be that the rope runs along that spiny schist for so long that the friction accumulates (The bolt job is very good btw -... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Warm Up Cave : Rump to Jump (V7)
By: tscupp When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: oops, my bad, I can't believe I never noticed that it was spelled that way.


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Sit Down area / Druid's Cir...
By: tscupp When: Apr 16, 2010

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Comments: Great area for V0 through V5/6. A lot of short problems but some clever slabs hidden in there among the obvious classics.


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Mack's traverse : Mack's Traverse (V2+)
By: tscupp When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: Fun, but the feet through the middle section really make this hard. They are just a little bit too high/small to make the crimps/jugs feel good.


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