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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Southwest Face (5.9 C3-)
By: trying hard When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Hiked to the base of the route the night before. Only found one pre existing bivy spot at the base right under the 4th class ramp to hike up to the actual route. Climbed it the next day. 14 hours to the top, then semi long hike back, about 4 miles if you miss the bus back to curry village, counting the hike off the dome back to the base and then out the mist trail to your car. The happy isles parking was closed when we did it, so you may just park there as well.
Crux of the route for me was fol... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome East End : The Yawn (5.9)
By: trying hard When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is awesome. The most valley like climbing I have done in the meadows. Pitch 1 is a bit tricky route finding though a fun roof and into a wide section. The 2nd pitch is burly awesome, and the 3rd is just straight up mean 5.7. This is one of the most beautiful rock formations to look up at from the base. When you get up close you cant help but get exited about this climb.
This is a majorly overlooked climb in the meadows and if you are looking to climb hard valley pitches, this is grea... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Aurora (5.13a)
By: trying hard When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is fun.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : From Chocolate to Morphine (5.11d)
By: trying hard When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems that in the last year someone has replaced the old style hangers on this route, and added a new fixed chain draw above the first roof with a fancy fixe beaner on it. Anyone know who is to thank for this upgrade?
I have to admit I am saddened the old school hangers were stripped off the route that gave it some more of that rich east side character. The addition of the fixed chain makes cleaning to route much easier, nice addition.
This is one of the top 5 best routes in the gorge. A m... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Regular Route (5.9)
By: trying hard When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Simul climbed in three pitches. Anchor at pitch two, trade off above cresent and then to the top, 2 hours to climb.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Great Pumpkin (5.8 R)
By: trying hard When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: How this route is rated so high baffles me. Supertopo guidebook talks about climbing immaculate perfect granite and so on regarding Great Pumpkin. This route offers far from that, highlighting a massive hollow flake that should not be protected with pro due to the unpredictability that it would blow off the wall, changing rock quality top to bottom and and extreme run outs. I would gladly walk off fairview for any other climb.
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Location: Jesse Davidson : sleeve anchor test bolting : Photo
By: trying hard When: May 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is awesome
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Looney Binge (5.12c)
By: trying hard When: May 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks to whomever put the chains up. I could not imagine this route being cleaned easily. Mad props to FA team but, again thank you!!! for the chain draws.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge
By: trying hard When: Sep 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Descent has been upgraded with incredible stone stairways thanks to some hard working individuals. This speeds the hike up and is much safer. (11.1.12) Some amazing classics lie down in the central. Enterprise, choclate to morphine and expressway just to name a few.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge
By: trying hard When: Sep 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing training area to get stronger. There are so many variations of climbing here. Some of the best climbing is even through the winter. Bachars stomping grounds!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Show Us Your Tits (5.10b)
By: trying hard When: Sep 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has old school hangers that make it fun and exiting. Pumpy all the way.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : West Face (5.10a)
By: trying hard When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: great route! Best views. Scary as trash on the repels.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Blues Riff (5.11b/c)
By: trying hard When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is a little sporty and there are one or two holds that seem scary to grab, but they seemed to be solid. Climb through a mini roof and mantle to a nice hand crack that is bomber.
Belay for Pitch one and leading off for money pitch is a huge ledge and there is fixed gear. I would just add a piece for back up, make sure to inspect the cordalete before belaying or repelling off it though.
The money pitch has a scary loose boulder you could start on the right, or start on the left a... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Sagehen Summit Area : Granite Basin : ... : Hair Raiser Buttress (5.9 R)
By: trying hard When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a classic for the East side. A great way to show someone what multi pitch is like without having to place gear. Make sure your a confident 5.9 leader. Sometimes this lead feels much harder than the grade if your not comfortable on slopers and little hold while being quite exposed. Great position and a fun pucker ride for some.
Hardest moves or getting to the first bolt, but there is a beautiful 5.9 sequence and its easy, just heady as you are stepping off a boulder onto the side of ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: trying hard When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun moves, great free solo.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : West Country (5.7)
By: trying hard When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best spots to climb in the meadows. Right above Tenaya lake and you get a great view of half dome at the top. Girlfriend loved it, good one to take the lady on to get warmed up to T Meadows climbing.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Lucky Streaks (5.10c/d)
By: trying hard When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. Where bomber shoes (tc pros). Lots of toes on knobs. My calves and toes where sore when I got done, more than usual.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : Crescent Arch (5.9+)
By: trying hard When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.8 and 5.9 lie backs were way harder than the supposedly 10B arch pitch. The arch was a breeze after the lower climbing. Slick feet, great position, beautiful arch, epic finish on Daff, doesn't get much better. I would want to be a solid 5.9 leader before tackling.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : Blown Away (5.9 PG13)
By: trying hard When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love the name of this climb for a ton of reasons.
Its relation to bombs over tokyo. The FA story of the winds. And when your watching someone climb it they start in the middle of the crag, then slowly move left until they are out of sight behind the P4 dihedral and it looks as if they literally got blown away, blown off the rock.
The knob traverse is classic and the P4 dihedral is so epic!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : On the Lamb (5.9)
By: trying hard When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is such a unique climb.
p1. Solo the first pitch of 4th class crack to a small ledge where I would rope up. From here climb up and right past a hole in the rock to the start of a vertical crack.
p2. Go up the vertical crack about 20 feet then start moving right on huge holds in a horizontal crack. Continue right around a corner to a 5.8 steep section, just after that you might see the two bolts below the climb for a belay. Build your anchor in the crack with some good cams, Take in... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Gram (5.10d)
By: trying hard When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1. 3 inch was handy, used two. After the vertical crack above your head its only a couple moves to a good spot so just keep truckin! Belay is interesting since only one draw wants to load if the follower falls, so maybe put two on the right hanger. As well as one on the left. Solid climbing on good rock.
(rocks above anchor are freaky but seem ok. Only freaky because I watched literally a gigantic chunk come off above the Good book at curry village. It happened out of no where and so loo... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d)
By: trying hard When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approach: Mellow approach, you can go left at the base of the talus field and straight up over boulders to the climb, or walk the path around the right and it hooks back into the base of OZ, Left is a little more convenient in my opinion.
P1. Committing Moves off the ground until about 15 feet up where you make your first placement. Very fun climbing through the first 10A moves or couple moves over a tiny roof/ bulge. You can mantle or just keep moving your feet up and climb right through it.... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Dome : Main Wall : Hobbit Book (5.7)
By: trying hard When: Aug 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool route to end the day on. I wouldn't be so into the hike if your a 5.10 climber. Climb OZ into hobbit book. If your 5.8 climber, the hike would be complimented by the epic view of Tenaya lake and half dome. Not to mention fairview, and Eichorn and pretty much everything else in the meadows!
Approach from OZ: walk off the top of OZ across a small flat area (excellent place to have a lunch!), up a mini talus field to the base of a 4th class traverse. The traverse is mellow, there i... more >>
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