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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : The Bungalow : Road Rage (5.10b)
By: triznuty When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second that..
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Minions of Chaos Area : Minions of Chaos (5.10+)
By: triznuty When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great climb! Just wish it didn't have that 3rd pitch though. The 2nd and 4th pitches are what you came for and are well worth doing.. I can't wait to come back and climb more in the area. The granite on the butters pitch felt and climbed just like Fergy stone. The FA's have done a wonderful job working this whole area.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Skinny Len Crimps (5.11a)
By: triznuty When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun must-do route. I also stayed slightly right between the first couple bolts.. Which seemed like the natural way. But if you want to get to the third clip, you'll have to bust out onto the crimpy face at some point. I wouldn't of wanted to of blown that third clip either...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Endless Torment (5.10b)
By: triznuty When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is good in its own right. A better description of the second pitch would be nice too.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : Stuck a Flute in My (5.10-)
By: triznuty When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really good variation to pitch 5, and it feels more direct than the "original" way. Surprisingly, it had some of the same kinds of moves as the "original" way too. Just a bit easier.. Also, that 3rd bolt is right where it needs to be. You just can't see it from the belay.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: triznuty When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hitting golf balls from the top of desert towers = WEAKSAUCE!
Maybe I'll start bring rocks to the golf course...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Ram Implosion Wing (5.12)
By: triznuty When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All those in favor of getting rid of unwarranted AKA say I... "I"!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : The River's Edge (5.10b R)
By: triznuty When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slick, but really really good!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Daddy Long Legs (5.9+)
By: triznuty When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is amazing. Linkup with Evening Falls for a classic romp.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Evening Falls (5.10a)
By: triznuty When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would be a classic in it's own if the crack gets cleaned up.. Excellent slab moves with good crack climbing thrown in. Didn't find any pins to clip though. Bolts and gear only. Link with DLL and you got a classic for sure!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Bob's rocking chair : Squash Rocker (5.10a/b)
By: triznuty When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I though this was a solid committing climb. Small gear to protect the beginning, a #2.5-#3 definitely protects the moves over the roof. Then some bolts above protect the thin slab. Full value route!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Bob's rocking chair : Hippies Anonymous (5.9)
By: triznuty When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Nice warmup. Couple sm cams and nuts, plus gear anchor. I use the tree up top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : The Rosary (5.10a)
By: triznuty When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth doing once. I'd even do it again too see if can find a better belay up top. The upper crack is were the real funs at. Couple interesting moves getting over to it from the wide crack as well... Standard rack works well. We hiked off the top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Hellfire Variation (5.9)
By: triznuty When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun little jaunt. Good protection. To keep it real and not sell yourself short, stay off the big ledge on the right and keep to the face on the left. Best way to finish for sure!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Benediction (5.10+ PG13)
By: triznuty When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite new climbs in Fergy. Not sure why I've overlooked it for so long.. I believe the original finish has a tree in the way, but going straight-up is still exciting. Just do it! I placed a #.4 to protect the mantle over the top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Final Prayer Variation (5.10c PG13)
By: triznuty When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun Fun Fun! Do this and then the one to the left of it Benediction .
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Beef Jerky (5.10c)
By: triznuty When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My thoughts during the Beef of it...Please don't pop, please don't pop! Very exciting climbing. It would be a fergy classic if the Jerky didn't end so quickly. Definitely worth doing though. And if you're not into trad, bring a pad (mondo size). I placed a #2 for the beef and a couple of small manky nuts for the upper section.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Double Standard (5.9)
By: triznuty When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice and steep. Good protection. A must do if you're up there..
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : ... : Photo
By: triznuty When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You mean NOT done... We call it DOUBLE dyno for a reason. Nice try though=)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Conflict (5.10c/d)
By: triznuty When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing moves through the first few bolts. Very good indeed!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : 40oz causulatie (5.10c)
By: triznuty When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth headed all the way up for this one... Now I though the first bolt was a little high with bit of a move to get there, so I threw in med. cam to make it comfortable. Though not sure if necessarily needed..? Some interesting moves near the top. Good fun!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Dehumanized (5.11)
By: triznuty When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route and a must do so bring a few cams up with ya. Similar to the others, but a little less sporty. The start looks hard, but with some big moves you open up some jugs. Carry a few small to med pieces of gear to protect the obvious crack up higher.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: triznuty When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anybody got some good beta for the route South Shoulder, that's on the South Sister? It would be greatly appreciated.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : High Dive (5.9+)
By: triznuty When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorites on the wall. The fact that it's got some excellent fingers makes it a classic 3 star in my book. Didn't see a piton after the bolt though (like guide indicated). But wasn't necessary as the gear was solid. Would consider putting a couple extra small nuts on the rack for this one next time. And bring plenty of runners as the rope drag can be horrendous!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d) : Photo
By: triznuty When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why yes it is.
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