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Me on a mixed route Crisco and I did in Rock Canyon.


Member Since: Mar 9, 2008
Last Visit: 34 mins ago
Contact Tristan Higbee


Point Rank: # 153
Total Points: 3,127
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1686 | Routes 66 | Areas 12 | Photos 386 | Page Improvements | Comments 357 | Posts 461 | Stars 352 | Ratings 52
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: When we did the FA, I think that pitch 16 is the only one that took me multiple tries. I had to pull the rope and re-lead it like 4 times before I got it clean. I thought I was just really tired and dehydrated and that's why it felt so hard, but it's interesting to hear others confirm that they felt it was hard, harder even than what I thought was the crux. It might very well be the crux of the whole route. It's thin, that's for sure.

The summit register was originally in a Nalgene bottle at t... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Photo
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Looks like Ruth Lake (Good Medicine Area ). The wall on the right there is the side with Fire Water and Sun Dog on it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (e... (5.10b)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: I climbed the full 9 pitches today and noticed that all of the pitch ratings listed here are considerably higher than what they felt like to me. Choss doesn't make a route technically harder... Here are my rating suggestions, plus bolt count:

Pitch 4 - 5.7 (6 bolts)
Pitch 5 - 5.8 (7 bolts)
Pitch 6 - 5.8 (8 bolts)
Pitch 7 - 4th class (1 bolt)
Pitch 8 - 5.6/5.7 (7 bolts)
Pitch 9 - 5.9 (10 bolts)

I did skip a bolt unintentionally on a couple pitches, so the bolt count might be off by 1. The last ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: We did it in three pitches and it added up to about 500' long total. The pitch lengths are very approximate.

Pitch 1: Start around the left side of the ridge, not too far above the stream, and head up one of the corner/crack systems. Belay at a flat stance on the ridge. 120'.

Pitch 2: Gingerly scramble through some dark quartzite until you're on the great, exposed arete/ridge. Climb the whole of the arete and belay partway up a dihedral on a stance/ledge made up of rickety blocks. 220'. (Note ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: I did this climb again today after first doing it about 8 years ago, and I forgot how good it is. I think it's my favorite moderate multi pitch route in the Cottonwoods. We combined pitches 1 and 2 and then 3 and 4 with a 70, though rope drag was apparently horrendous for the last two pitches.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : East Dihedrals (5.6)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: I combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 70 and belayed on the nice ledge about 40 feet below the top (with about 10-15 feet of rope left). It was great and rope drag wasn't an issue.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic route. I don't see how 250 feet of 5.6 could get any better. There's not a single loose rock on this thing. We easily combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches with a 70m rope.

The rappel route can be done in 2 rappels with a 70m rope. Do the first rap (~80 feet) and then combine the next 2. You'll end up just able to reach a stance about 10-15 feet off the ground, from which you can then scramble down to the ground.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Barney Rumble Tower : Raven's Delight (5.9+)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Link to a great TR on Supertopo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Eleventh Hour (5.8)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Classic. I finally climbed this thing today and loved it. I started the first pitch too far to the left but eventually made it to the big ledge and the normal upper pitches. The rock on the route was a lot better than I thought it would be and the webbing at all rap stations was in good shape.

I took cams to #3 (with doubles on the .75, 1, and 2 pieces), a set of nuts, and a few micro cams. It was perfect and it's what I'll take when, not if, I do it again.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Inside Corner (5.6)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: The Ruckmans gave it a 5.5 rating, but it felt like solid 5.6 to us. The first and beginning of the second pitches were R-rated for us, but may not be if you take the other variations. Your mileage may vary on all of the above. The first pitch deserves a couple bomb ratings, which are somewhat offset by the exposure and fun climbing of the upper dihedral. There's a fair amount of foliage on the route, though it really only gets in the way on the first pitch and the beginning of the second.

[[He... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Treasure Island : Blood Ruby (5.11d) : Photo
By: Tristan Higbee When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: The FA was done in Mythos, too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.6)
By: Tristan Higbee When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this today and it was extremely dirty. It will be fun when it cleans up. I love how you can easily tell from the ground where the route goes because there's a cleaned swath right through the moss patch.

I used two 48" slings on the anchors to toprope and the ends of my 70m rope were at about knee level near the ground.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-) : Photo
By: Tristan Higbee When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 5.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Millstone Slab (5.4 R)
By: Tristan Higbee When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this today and had a great time on it. As others have said, it's remarkably consistent. I started up in my approach shoes but switched to my climbing shoes a couple hundred feet up. Felt more secure.

For the descent I didn't want to descend down into Broads Fork because I wasn't familiar with that area at all, so I came down around the west (climber's right) side of the Millstone Slab and then followed a dry creek bed back down to the trail. Some minor bushwhacking was required but i... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Pierced Nipple : Piercing The Nipple (5.12c A0-1)
By: Tristan Higbee When: May 11, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this today and the last entry in the summit register was Adam's in August 2010. The climb is worth doing if for no other reason than to see all of the crazy "bolts." The route is what you'd get if you crossed sport climbing and the Fisher Towers. Like Arie, I tied off the first couple bolts to use as an anchor for soloing. Huge props to the guy who freed the route. Impressive.

Pitch 1: Has exactly 39 (!) bolts, 2 of which do not have hangers. Follow 34 or so bolts up the vertical to o... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: Tristan Higbee When: May 11, 2012

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Comments: Nope. The Squaw Peak Road does not come anywhere near the summit of Squaw Peak.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : South Summit : Geurt's Ridge (5.5)
By: Tristan Higbee When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: I soloed the route today and thought I'd add a bit more about the downclimbs that bypass the rappels. The first downclimb felt to be about 5.4 (the crux move for me was toward the end of the downclimb) and was relatively exposed. I started the downclimb about 30 feet back from the notch.

The second rappel bypass felt like 4th class scrambling and is really short and obvious. It's not very exposed. Even if I'd brought a rope I would have just scrambled down that one. Someone added a bolted rap s... more >>


Location: UT : Glen Canyon : The Cheesebox (Easy 5th)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: Yep, I sure did use your beta for this route and have for some other trips, too (namely U-Turn Canyon and Parriott Mesa). I often find yours and other people's beta incomplete at best and inaccurate at worst, as others likely find mine. Tis the nature of beta and the benefit of having multiple writeups and descriptions.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Wilson Arch : Wilson Arch Regular Route (5.3)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: The approach beta here says that the arch is between mile markers 102 and 103, but that's actually the Looking Glass Rock turnoff. Wilson Arch is another 2-3 miles down the road.

We climbed it in 2 long pitches (see topo) with a 70 for nearly 400 feet of climbing. The climbing is kind of crappy but the rappel makes it worth it.

A single 70m rope easily gets you down if you rappel from the anchors but it wouldn't be enough for the simul rap.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Van Cott
By: Tristan Higbee When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: Both of these areas have likely been climbed at for a while. I ran across them while wandering around and they might have real names that I'm not aware of. If that's the case, let me know and I'll change them. I'm not adding any specific routes to MP but if anyone feels the need to, knock yourself out.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Balcony : Photo
By: Tristan Higbee When: Apr 18, 2012

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Comments: A couple years ago, Darren, Perin, and I fought our way up the scree slope in the background to the obvious tower (which, unfortunately, isn't really a true tower). We put in an anchor at the top before realizing that we were actually not on the formation we'd originally wanted to climb. We had been aiming for something further up the gully. Oops.

If I remember right, we saw an old rusty fixed piton or something about 10 feet off the ground as we were rappelling down it. It looked like someone ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : City Creek Canyon : Hadrian's Wall : Trajan's Column (5.9)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Apr 17, 2012

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Comments: "Just observing that it likely isn't worth bolting lines that just won't ever clean up."

Worth it for who? It was worth it for me. This is my favorite route on the wall and I've climbed it a couple times now. I haven't had any footholds break on me when I've climbed it but yeah, the rock down low is bad so I'm not surprised.

As always, your mileage may vary. That holds particularly true for the choss.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : The Stitches Wall : Itchy Stitches (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: When I climbed the route today there was a quick link on one bolt and nothing on other other. I added a chain link to the quick link and a quick link and chain to the other bolt, so now you can easily rap or lower off of the route. The route to the left also shares these anchors, and it's easy enough to traverse over to these anchors from the route to the right.

I felt like this was the hardest and best route on the wall. You really need to look around for the holds, but it's a fun little climb... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : The Stitches Wall : Sticky Fishes (5.10a/b R)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: This one is definitely runout to the top (you might deck if you fall from high up) but the climbing after the second bolt is significantly easier than the climbing up to it. Fun climbing down low.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : The Stitches Wall : Mr. Milkbones (5.9-)
By: Tristan Higbee When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: Above the bolt I placed a bomber green (.75) Camalot.

The two anchor bolts do not have chains or rings or anything, but it's easy enough to traverse over to the Itchy Stitches anchors. You can also just use your quickdraws and then scramble up the back to retrieve them after you lower.


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