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Location: WY : Steamboat Point : Moderate Wall : Photo
By: Trevor Bowman When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route lines drawn here are inaccurate in that the pitches diverge above the first ledge shown rather than the second...otherwise a decent overview shot.
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Desperado (5.11-)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to hear...props to Jeff for the addition...hopefully it'll encourage people to get on it!
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Upper Blacktail Butte : Power Trip (5.9)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I get the impression this thing gets confused often with Red Chili, which is the longer (and better) line about 50' or so the the right on nice gray rock. Power Trip is on an isolated buttress on the far left side of the first band. It is short (3 bolts) and vertical and offers some cool moves up big edges and brown blocky bands. The rock isn't the greatest, but the climbing is worthwhile.
I believe the route you're asking about Michael is a line called "Log Jammin", which is immediately left o... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Inconceivable (5.11a)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The extension is dubbed "Inconceivably Busted" and offers no moves harder than .10d or so on good rock. Cut up and right from Inconceivable anchors and follow the crack (Raven Crack) for a couple moves until a cool traverse left on pockets and edges sets you up for the upper headwall and some sweet cranking. It was added in the fall of '02 by Greg Miles and Trevor Bowman.
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Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield : Hoback Shield Left : Hoist (5.11a)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is definitely a contrived little line since you can indeed cop out and avoid the crux sequence...however, that sequence is pretty cool as I recall and worth sticking to...the bypass is also decent and offers another moderate option. While boasting one of the lower 48's coolest alpine arenas, Jackson is tragically deprived of cragging options, forcing a bit of contrivance here and there to offer a couple more routes...
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Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield : Far Right (Warmup Area) : Hoi Polloi (5.8)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eddie Bowman deserves first ascent credit too! Drilled this one on lead from stances in fall of 02'.
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Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield : Far Right (Warmup Area) : Drill and Repetition (5.9+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the first sport route I ever established...on rappel with a hand drill over several nights after school in the fall of '01...it was in early November or so, and after I got the holes in, it snowed and winter set in...I returned the next March to put in the bolts and send it with my dad, who waded through thigh deep snow up to the cliff to help me finish it off, what a guy!
I haven't been on it in over 5 years, but it could probably benefit from some re-engineering in spots to make the ... more >>
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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Desperado (5.11-)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Phillip... noted and corrected...no disrespect intended to ODB...
Oh yeah, what's the name for the 5.9+ one right of Ol' Dirty?
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Location: WY : Tongue River Canyon : The Knight : Pangs of Battle (5.12b) : Photo
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot Clay! Glad to see this getting some action, it's one of my favorites!
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Splittgerber-March Direct (5.10b)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great sustained line with a surprising amount of strenuous climbing on the upper 1/2. Excellent crux first pitch layback/stem corner. Some dirt here and there, but pretty clean...it seems to be gaining some popularity. I enjoyed it as much as Astro Elephant and thought it a bit more full value of a day.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : P.O.T.C. (5.10d)
By: Trevor Bowman When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch offers great movement, but crunchy rock and some munge in the crack...as is all too common at the Tower, this is a fine pitch which goes neglected and as a result hasn't cleaned up well. There are two fixed pins down low which seem OK. You can TR this with a single 70m rope if you scramble off the belay ledge a bit (easy).
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Manifest Destiny (5.9)
By: Trevor Bowman When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're just doing the first pitch, it really isn't an offwidth, but mostly cupped hands and fists. Bring several #3 camalots and a #4. Fun climbing, with some flaky rock typical of this zone on the Tower. You can rap/TR this pitch with a single 70m if you watch the ends and scramble up off the big belay ledge a bit (easy).
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Location: WY : Tongue River Canyon : The Knight : When Chivalry Fails... (5.12b)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As far as I know, Third Times the Charm was applied by Clay Kondos to this route when it was still in its unfinished state, although I don't think he had anything to do with the route. It refers to the fact that the third party involved would be the necessary force to finish it up.
Certainly the least labor intensive new route I've done, all I had to do was slap the final few bolts in and crimp like hell.
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Location: AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : Jim's Buttress
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This wall is located directly across the canyon from Saguaro Corner. Follow the main trail to Saguaro Corner and drop down into the wash and up the steep hill to the base
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Location: AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : Jim's Buttress : Hootenanny (5.11c)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a couple of additions to Eric's description: There are 8 bolts on the line and both the bottom crux crimpy bit and the roof are bolt protected. A #1 and #2 (#3 is too big I think) camalot work well in the upper crack, which is 20' of great 5.8/9 hand and finger. Longer runners on some of the bolts are advisable, as the route weaves around a good bit, especially in the middle section. There are also clip-and-lower anchors, although cleaning while lowering can be a bit probl... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Ringtail Arete (5.10+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent and engaging pitch! Warpaint, Coati, and Ringtail makes for a very memorable day of stellar climbing.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Finger Rock : Finger Rock (Standard Route... (5.8)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Feb 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For anyone comfortable with solo alpine-ish rambles, this makes a great training outing. If approached as such, here are a couple thoughts...The crux is by no means 5.8, but a single move of 5.5 or 5.6 at most on positive edges with a small ledge immediately below; it could very feasibly be downclimbed, eliminating the need to bring a rope/harness and allow one to go as light as possible...or, one could carry a few double-length runners to rig a swami and clip the bolt for a bit more p... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Tri-Level Spire : Prancer (5.11)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The largest, chalked up sidepull edge moving between 1st and 2nd bolts ripped off on me yesterday, but a good belay kept me from fully decking out. This sequence is probably a bit harder now, although I didn't care to investigate...
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jan 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're comfortable spacing your placements a bit on moderate cracks, a single set of cams from .5 to 3 BD size is sufficient. A #4 could be placed in three spots, but other stuff will go in a few feet above or below in each of these spots. Great second pitch!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : The Hourglass (5.11a)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Oct 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ha, yeah they really need to add that option in the ratings list... although I just now remembered we'd all agreed on .9+ as seeming fair...
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Location: WY : Piney Creek Canyon
By: Trevor Bowman When: Oct 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A new cragging guidebook to the eastern Bighorns is due out in spring of '09 and will provide comprehensive coverage to Piney Creek Canyon as well as all of the other major crags in the area. Look for it locally at the Sports Lure in Buffalo, Backcountry Bicycles in Sheridan, and Rendezvous Trading Co. in Ranchester or regionally in various climbing shops.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Everlasting (5.11b)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The column-top belay above the second pitch is one of the coolest and most comfy little stances on the Tower; I sure was glad to roll over onto it after battling up the pitch beneath!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Park Politics (5.11b R)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work Pat! This thing would be a spicy lead, and is a fun TR after climbing Spank the Monkey. Delicate, insecure, flared stuff similar in flavor to Deadpoint.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Dusk In Dogtown (5.10c)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are very mindful of the ends of the rope and belay from the highest possible stance, you can do the route and lower/rappel off with a single 70m rope.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler Eclipse (5.11b)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 4/29/08 all of the old 1" buttonheads with angle iron hangers were yanked and replace with 3/8" X 4" stainless steel 5-piece bolts and new hangers. The ARI donated the bolts, Frank Sanders donated the hangers, and Scott Fitzgerald did the replacement work--a big thanks to all involved! In Frank's post above he commented that the second pitch is only protected by 2-3 bolts, by which he meant decent bolts, because the entire pitch was sport-bolted, although most of the hardware was junk. I beli... more >>
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