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Me on Pabst Smear. Chris took this pic from East C...


Member Since: Apr 16, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,242
Total Points: 534
Last Year: 149
Last 30 Days: 11
33 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 442 | Routes 26 | Areas | Photos 49 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 52 | Stars 169 | Ratings 117
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : North Guardian Angel : East Ridge (4th)
By: Trevor. When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a really cool scramble, but definitely be aware that you can find yourself doing 5th class moves on sketchy rock with huge exposure if you don't take the best route. I stuck to the ridge and had a few holds crumble underfoot where a fall would have been fatal, so be careful which way you go, it's a long ways down up there! Definitely worth doing though, the view was awesome!


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Green Acres : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Just a note, when climbing Geologic Time Includes Now, you traverse over to and use The Garden's anchors, not the anchors up top. The anchors above Geologic Time Includes Now are accessible from the top and are presumably for rapping in to The Garden to set up a TR.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Two rappels with a single 60m will get you down.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure about linking pitches 1 and 2, but I did pitches 1-3 in two pitches by belaying at the small tree halfway up the second pitch. Also, my second dropped a #2 camalot from a few pitches up, if anyone finds it, I wouldn't mind getting it back.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: One good strategy for those looking to move fast is to simul-climb to the base of the 5.8 pitch, pitch that out, and simul or solo to the top. Taylor and I did the whole route in 34 minutes this way!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Recently, I had one La Sportiva Nago come unclipped from my harness somewhere on the hike down from Theater of Shadows. If you find it, I'll pay a reward for it! We got off trail in the dark on the descent, so it's probably stuck in a bush. This is a bit of a long shot, isn't it?


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : East Car Body Canyon : The Pansy (5.10a)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Watch out for the loose blocks below the bulge about halfway up the route. They look ready to fall!


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Green Acres : Fairway to Heaven (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: This climb no longer exists. The whole crag fell off the cliff and down the hill this morning. It's a bummer the climbs are gone but it was quite the show!


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Green Acres
By: Trevor. When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: This morning Eric and I watched the majority of the Green Acres wall collapse, sending a huge rockslide of boulders flying down the hill. It was pretty awesome to see but unfortunately, Fairway to Heaven, Piss and Vinegar, GW Loves Peanut Butter, and Pidgeon Holer are all completely destroyed. Which sucks because those were some good climbs! Kinda terrifying to think that I took a big whipper on a climb that collapsed a few months later...


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Snake Eyes (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: This is also a great trad lead with good pro. It's a few feet to the left of Bad Ethics which is easy to find since someone decided to scratch the name into the rock... Also be careful on the lower, there are some scary looking blocks out to the right of the climb.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs
By: Trevor. When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: A heads up to all Black Cliffs climbers: There is a lot of loose rock up there right now. I've had several holds break this spring and I've seen several sketchy loose blocks I don't remember being loose last season. It seems like the freeze-thaw cycles loosened some stuff this winter. Be careful out there!


Location: ID : Table Rock : The Fortress : Left Hand Start (V0+)
By: Trevor. When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: I'm going to assume the obvious edge has broken off since this description was written since there's no obvious edge as far as I can tell. IMO it goes at around v1/v2 in it's current condition. Fun slabby moves though!


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Face Canyon
By: Trevor. When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Is it just me, or did the entire top half of the Happy Face column collapse since the writing of the Epeldi guide?


Location: ID : Table Rock : Electric Cross Area : Headstone Crack (V0+)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: The crack is rough and the feet are a bit crumbly, but it's still worth doing.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : Pabst Smear (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Super fun and sustained stemming that doesn't let up til the top. It's well protected once you make that first clip.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Bloody Fingers Corridor : Intruding Dike (5.7)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: Just a heads up, there was a huge rat living in the wide upper part of the crack as of Sept 2013.


Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : Computer Girl (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: First pitch has good rock, and is mostly easy slab climbing with a tricky crux bulge about 2/3rds of the way up. If you want you can TR or rap from the first pitch anchors with a 60m.
Second pitch is kind of dirty and exfoliating and the bolt line wanders A LOT. Runners pretty much mandatory if you don't want to experience rope drag hell. That said its still worth climbing the second pitch for the top out alone. Walk off the formation, it's a bit exposed but easy enough.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : Bolts-n-Burger (5.8+)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: The holds on the bottom half were insanely greasy and polished a last weekend.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Green Acres : GW Loves Peanut Butter (5.9)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: A sweet crack, but sometimes it gets hit pretty hard with the bird shit. The crack was pretty clean right now, hopefully the pidgeons decide to go somewhere else for a while.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Face Canyon : Surf's Up (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: One of the most fun cracks at the cliffs! Excellent finger locks lead up to an interesting wide section. It'll take pro pretty much wherever you want it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Indian Chief Rock : Flake Route (5.5)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: A good route for kids, beginners, or a first trad lead.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Between Heaven and Earth (5.9)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: What a fun long pitch! I skipped bolts 2 and 3(humongous low angle jugs make this safe to do) and used long runners on nearly every bolt and the drag was manageable but still not great. As said before, the traverse to the left above the roof is a bit scary with a long runner, but it was well worth it once past that move. There are chains about 10m below the top anchors(blind pig anchors?), these will get you down on a single 70m rope.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Zinger (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Well protected and fun climbing. Be careful pulling your rope down from the first rappel, we got our rope stuck in the ledge/crack at the bottom of the 3rd pitch.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
By: Trevor. When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: There is a new bolted route to the right of Twist and Crawl. I did not climb it but was told it is 5.6 by someone who had. From what I could tell from the ground, it might make a good first lead, the holds look massive.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Too Much Fun (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: This is a really fun long pitch. 18 bolts to chains located on a great belay ledge. I've always used two ropes to get down but someone was telling me that a single 70m gets you to the ledge right off the ground. Don't take my word for it though.


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