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Me on Pabst Smear. Chris took this pic from East Carbody.


Member Since: Apr 16, 2012
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Trevor.


Point Rank: # 1,497
Total Points: 385
Last Year: 382
Last 30 Days: 20
7 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Trevor. been climbing?










Contributions


All (318) | Routes (22) | Areas | Photos (29) | Comments (20) | Posts (19) | Stars (130) | Ratings (98)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Snake Eyes (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: This is also a great trad lead with good pro. It's a few feet to the left of Bad Ethics which is easy to find since someone decided to scratch the name into the rock... Also be careful on the lower, there are some scary looking blocks out to the right of the climb.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs
By: Trevor. When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: A heads up to all Black Cliffs climbers: There is a lot of loose rock up there right now. I've had several holds break this spring and I've seen several sketchy loose blocks I don't remember being loose last season. It seems like the freeze-thaw cycles loosened some stuff this winter. Be careful out there!


Location: ID : Table Rock : The Fortress : Left Hand Start (V0+)
By: Trevor. When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: I'm going to assume the obvious edge has broken off since this description was written since there's no obvious edge as far as I can tell. IMO it goes at around v1/v2 in it's current condition. Fun slabby moves though!


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Face Canyon
By: Trevor. When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Is it just me, or did the entire top half of the Happy Face column collapse since the writing of the Epeldi guide?


Location: ID : Table Rock : Electric Cross Area : Headstone Crack (V0+)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: The crack is rough and the feet are a bit crumbly, but it's still worth doing.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : Pabst Smear (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Super fun and sustained stemming that doesn't let up til the top. It's well protected once you make that first clip.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Bloody Fingers Corridor : Intruding Dike (5.7)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: Just a heads up, there was a huge rat living in the wide upper part of the crack as of Sept 2013.


Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : Computer Girl (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: First pitch has good rock, and is mostly easy slab climbing with a tricky crux bulge about 2/3rds of the way up. If you want you can TR or rap from the first pitch anchors with a 60m.
Second pitch is kind of dirty and exfoliating and the bolt line wanders A LOT. Runners pretty much mandatory if you don't want to experience rope drag hell. That said its still worth climbing the second pitch for the top out alone. Walk off the formation, it's a bit exposed but easy enough.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : Bolts-n-Burger (5.8+)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: The holds on the bottom half were insanely greasy and polished a last weekend.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Green Acres : GW Loves Peanut Butter (5.9)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: A sweet crack, but sometimes it gets hit pretty hard with the bird shit. The crack was pretty clean right now, hopefully the pidgeons decide to go somewhere else for a while.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Face Canyon : Surf's Up (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: One of the most fun cracks at the cliffs! Excellent finger locks lead up to an interesting wide section. It'll take pro pretty much wherever you want it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Indian Chief Rock : Flake Route (5.5)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: A good route for kids, beginners, or a first trad lead.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Between Heaven and Earth (5.9)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: What a fun long pitch! I skipped bolts 2 and 3(humongous low angle jugs make this safe to do) and used runners on nearly every bolt and the drag was manageable but still not great. As said before, the traverse to the left above the roof is a bit scary with a long runner, but it was well worth it once past that move. There are chains about 10m below the top anchors(blind pig anchors?), these will get you down on a single 70m rope.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Zinger (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Well protected and fun climbing. Be careful pulling your rope down from the first rappel, we got our rope stuck in the ledge/crack at the bottom of the 3rd pitch.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
By: Trevor. When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: There is a new bolted route to the right of Twist and Crawl. I did not climb it but was told it is 5.6 by someone who had. From what I could tell from the ground, it might make a good first lead, the holds look massive.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Too Much Fun (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: This is a really fun long pitch. 18 bolts to chains located on a great belay ledge. I've always used two ropes to get down but someone was telling me that a single 70m gets you to the ledge right off the ground. Don't take my word for it though.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Twist and Crawl (5.8 R)
By: Trevor. When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt is probably 30 or so feet off the ground, but it is easy(5.6ish) climbing to get to it. Not worthy of an R rating IMO, but definitely don't fall off up there!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face : Handy (5.7)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Awesome splitter, if only it was twice as long! Good intro to crack climbing with bomber pro. May want to consider taping up, there were definitely a few sharp crystals in there. The crack absolutely eats up #2 C4s, and there are a few spots a #3 will fit. There are 2 bolts on the slab after the crack.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face : Mantle Dynamics (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Super cool climb with great movement. Like all Kevin Pogue routes, there are a ton of bolts, but you can always skip a few if you don't feel like essentially being on toprope for every move.


Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Memorial Route (5.8+)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Linked the first 2 pitches on a 70m. Really fun and mellow climb. I would say the cruxes are right around 5.8, with the vast majority of the climbing 5.7 or easier. Will probably simul-climb the first 4 pitches next time. No big runouts, even on the easy pitches. We brought a few small cams as recommended in the comments, but didn't place them at all. You can place a .5 C4 around 2/3rds up, but the move it protects is less than 10 feet out and isn't hard. Bring lots of runners, rope drag would... more >>