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Member Since: Sep 21, 2007
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact Trevor Bowman


Point Rank: # 98
Total Points: 4,212
Last Year: 538
Last 30 Days: 72
82 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1324 | Routes 200 | Areas 47 | Photos 286 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 74 | Posts 1 | Stars 714 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Tom-Tom Tower Area : The Reach Around- Tommy Kno... (5.10 PG13)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Now tell us how you really feel Jeremy... If it eases your mind any I get the impression that not everybody is running around installing new anchors. I've yet to see any evidence of anchor maintenance or hardware updates on the few other routes I've climbed in the VOG.

I'm sorry that the addition of a new rap line bothers you so much, but I didn't go out there without some planning and forethought. After reading the account of the North Face route on Tom Tom, it sounded like a crumbling pile wi... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Bluff : Cottonwood Wash : Sandwalker Buttress : The Bant (5.9+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: Went back and added a new anchor with 1/2" stainless bolts and chains that is situated directly back (north) of the topout for the route. It protects the final mantel for the 2nd much better and provides a clean rap route that doesn't chomp up the sandstone. I would have liked to have it right above the climb for toproping purposes, but didn't place it there due to rock quality and the fact that initiating the rappel from the summit would be awkward (flat top with vertical face below).

We cut ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Tom-Tom Tower Area : The Reach Around- Tommy Kno... (5.10 PG13)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: A nice find that should become the standard route on the tower for sure (not that it gets climbed often).

The belay above the .10 wide crack requires some ingenuity. The traverse is mellow and can be sparsely protected with small cams. The final chimney is a cool spot. The summit fin is very cool.

We added a new rap anchor on the far southeast end of the summit (closest to Tommy Knocker and the road) which is marked by a cairn. 1/2" stainless bolts and chains get you to the notch between Tom ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Tom-Tom Tower Area : Tommy Knocker- South Face (5.10 C1+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: A nice tower, but while this may have less choss than others out here, it was still pretty chossy! There was a lot of soft, exfoliating stone on several pitches, more so than I've encountered on my few VOG forays.

Rivet hangers aren't necessary on the bolt ladder anymore as I left one on the final bolt stud, but I would recommend a short stick clip to bypass the hook move. I blew out the rock around the lower and better looking hook slot as soon as I eased onto it. The higher slot will probabl... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Putterman on the Throne : Supercalifragilisticexpiali... (5.10+ C1)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: We rapped 3X with one rope (60m would work) using every anchor to avoid rapping past big ledges. Bring webbing to replace anchors, a couple of them have bolts staggered far apart. (1X) .4-#5 BD with (2X) #3 and #4 BD worked well. All pins/bolts still decent. P2 would go free, but it's heinous sugar rock. P3 has lots of loose blocks, it's easy, but tread gently. A great combo day with the Bathtub!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Putterman in a Bathtub : It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad P... (5.10)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: A good VOG route with mostly solid rock and pretty good crack climbing. P1 was silty from runoff, but still fun. If the summit register is to be believed, we were the 20th ascent. A couple notes:
1. This tower is more like 150', not 450' as stated above!
2. Rap 2X with one rope (60m sufficient) from decent 3/8" bolts with webbing.
3. (1X) .4-.75 BD, (2X) #1-#4 BD, (1X) #5 BD C4 worked well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Petard Tower : East Face (5.9 A1)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: A decent route on a nice tower. Much of Jeff's above commentary is spot on, however I'd add a few things.

1. Don't drag two ropes up this thing unless you like extra weight and practice flaking ropes. Rap from the slung thread on the summit to the top of P2--short rap, 50' or so. Look around the corner just left (south) of the P3 bolt ladder and locate a 3 drilled pin anchor with webbing, rap off this 35m to the ground (think a single 60m rope might be short).

2. The P2 squeeze is VERY tight... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Duck for Cover (5.11)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: Great, physical route! The route could potentially be rapped with a single 70m (full 70m!). It's just barely on the 1st pitch rap; watch the ends carefully and ride the stretch. However, there are no chains on the 2nd pitch anchors, so two ropes are still mandatory, until chains are added. If someone wanted to add these, the bolts at that anchor are vertically staggered by about 1 foot--this would be a nice community service so folks didn't have to lug two ropes up there.

Also, as fa... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Touched By An Angel (5.10)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Got on this rig last Sat. for what we assume was the 2nd ascent? It was an excellent outing as advertised above which offered a wide variety in the climbing. The beta posted is quite good for approach, route and gear. A few random thoughts/comments...

We ended up approaching up the drainage that accesses the standard Earth Angel route, and cut out of that drainage once the downhill toe of the tower was reached. The going up to this point is pretty straightforward, the schwack above was unpleasa... more >>


Location: WY : Tongue River Canyon : Snag Wall : Pair of Loaded Guns (5.9+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Anchor is fixed, back to what it should have been, two good bolts with two good chains. I have no idea what the person who did this was thinking. They converted what was a safe, redundant anchor into just the opposite by connecting the ends of the chains with a single link. This "master point" was not redundant, was a quicklink rated to 500kg, about 1/2 the strength of the chains and other links previously in the system, and furthermore it was attached in a way that essentially cross-loaded the ... more >>


Location: WY : Steamboat Point
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Well said Jason. Seriously folks, camouflage hardware is a precedent at this and all other eastern Big Horn crags that was set long ago. Todd Skinner used camouflage hardware on Stub Farlow, his masterpiece line he bolted on Steamboat in 1990! All other sport development up here (until just recently) has followed suit.
This was done with the express purpose of minimizing our visual impact. Steamboat and several other local crags are very popular with other user groups, primarily hikers, who of... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle : Hobophobic (5.11-)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Active hornet nest in the corner crack just above 2nd to last bolt...heads up!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Trevor Bowman When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Hey Ian, just saw your response. Didn't look like the tower had seen much action recently judging from the webbing. Hopefully the info you've provided here will motivate a few more folks to check it out! Didn't do any cragging in the area on that trip but will be back as I really enjoyed the setting and rock quality. Thanks for the efforts you guys put in here and for the topos and beta you've provided!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this last week and really enjoyed it, an obscure classic with great climbing (esp. p1) and a cool setting! There's a great campsite below, on the banks of the river, which is where you want to park to wade across (good rock-hopping, but a second pair of footwear to get wet is needed). Approach up decent, steep wash in 20min or so. Sun in the afternoon. Rack and topo good on beta and gear suggestions. Bring extra webbing for the anchors. The "tower" is only detached at the summit from the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : Pinky Tower : Ring Sizer (5.10 PG13)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: The big gear is for the first pitch, the top of the 2nd pitch could take the #3s and maybe a #4. Felt a single rack from .4-1 BD would suffice with 2X #2-#4 BD and 1 #5.
Thanks Sam for the anchor update! However, the next person up should bring a wrench, as the 1/2 Rawl was spinning (the bolt, not the hanger). I tightened it by hand, and hopefully it'll tighten back up with a little wrenching.
P1 gets morning shade, as does most of P2 until the upper bit.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Gooney Bird : Tea Party (5.10+ PG13)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Having read the conflicting comments above about the condition of the summit anchor, I was confused, but hoped for the best and left the drill behind... Well, it hasn't been beefed up yet and currently consists of one good-looking, original 3/8" rawl and a slung soft-rock column... should have lugged the drill up.
Good route with engaging climbing that exceeded my expectations. A double rack from green C3 to #3 BD and a new #4 and #5 BD was adequate, although the 2nd pitch has... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Eagle Plume Tower : Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South... (5.10)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: We rapped Lola too and the anchor bolts were in good shape, and the tat will definitely need swapped in the near future. Although we used two ropes since we weren't sure, it looked like a single 70m should work fine, but not positive about this! With doubled 70s we hit the large blocky ledge atop the 1st pitch with plenty to spare, and rapped on a single to the ground.
I would have liked to have had a #4 or 2 and a #5 BD on P1, as the 5.7 part felt a bit more challenging than the gr... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Comb Ridge : 2.6 Miles - Prayer Stick : Magic Man (5.10+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: While this climb is on a cool feature in a great setting, I thought that only the crux pitch was high quality, with the others being on primarily crunchy rock or moving around blocky terrain and pretty forgettable. That said, the crux pitch was beautiful and burly! I wouldn't hesitate to call it a sandbag, and I rather enjoy wide cracks. The bulk of the first 1/2 hovers between baggy #3 and #4 BD; despite my best efforts to squeeze up the layback part, I had to commit to th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Bluff : Cottonwood Wash : Sandwalker Buttress : The Bant (5.9+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: Was pleasantly surprised with the quality of this little tower, it's one of the best single-pitch towers I've done, and at a modest grade! Great fingers/tips locks and hands, stemming/laybacking, a bouldery finish...the rock was the best I've seen around Bluff, the climbing engaging for the grade, the summit nice...the only downside was that the rappel anchor (positioned to rap off the overhanging east side for a nice free-hanging ride) runs the ropes over a soft, low-angle bulge which is very g... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Weavers Needle : West Chimney (5.0)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Fun adventure hike/scramble. We soloed it and rapped off the gully pitches--1 70m rope rappel (35m) deposited us right at the pipe marking the start of the technical climbing from the anchors atop the chockstones. I'm sure plenty of folks downclimb the gully, which would be reasonable but tedious.


Location: WY : Piney Creek Canyon : Trailside Wall
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: The majority of the Trailside Wall routes were recently retro-fitted with clip-and-lower anchors. This was done in response to the growing popularity of the area, to make these lines both safer and more convenient. I doubt any of these setups will wear out too quickly, but consider toproping through your own draws to help preserve the anchors. Some of the hardware was provided by the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association), check out their website and consider supporting the cause, it's a good... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Fairy Tales (5.13-)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: This route should be moved to between new routes Cocked and Desert Eagle.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire
By: Trevor Bowman When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: You can rap off the summit to the ground with two 70m ropes, the pull wasn't bad as you can doctor the knot a bit up top and walk downhill to pull.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : The Flow (5.8 C1)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: The bulk of P3 is mostly hand/cups with very little wide crack, I really wanted more than just two #2 and #3 BD, 3-4 of each would have cut down on a lot of back cleaning. A varied and good Fisher route!


Location: WY : Bear Gulch : The Barrel
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Excellent looking lines for sure!


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