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Member Since: Sep 21, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Trevor Bowman


Point Rank: # 101
Total Points: 4,078
Last Year: 404
Last 30 Days: 4
81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1280 | Routes 197 | Areas 45 | Photos 273 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 65 | Posts 1 | Stars 697 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Tongue River Canyon : Snag Wall : Pair of Loaded Guns (5.9+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Anchor is fixed, back to what it should have been, two good bolts with two good chains. I have no idea what the person who did this was thinking. They converted what was a safe, redundant anchor into just the opposite by connecting the ends of the chains with a single link. This "master point" was not redundant, was a quicklink rated to 500kg, about 1/2 the strength of the chains and other links previously in the system, and furthermore it was attached in a way that essentially cross-loaded the ... more >>


Location: WY : Steamboat Point
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Well said Jason. Seriously folks, camouflage hardware is a precedent at this and all other eastern Big Horn crags that was set long ago. Todd Skinner used camouflage hardware on Stub Farlow, his masterpiece line he bolted on Steamboat in 1990! All other sport development up here (until just recently) has followed suit.
This was done with the express purpose of minimizing our visual impact. Steamboat and several other local crags are very popular with other user groups, primarily hikers, who of... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle : Hobophobic (5.11-)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Active hornet nest in the corner crack just above 2nd to last bolt...heads up!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Trevor Bowman When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Hey Ian, just saw your response. Didn't look like the tower had seen much action recently judging from the webbing. Hopefully the info you've provided here will motivate a few more folks to check it out! Didn't do any cragging in the area on that trip but will be back as I really enjoyed the setting and rock quality. Thanks for the efforts you guys put in here and for the topos and beta you've provided!


Location: CO : Dolores Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this last week and really enjoyed it, an obscure classic with great climbing (esp. p1) and a cool setting! There's a great campsite below, on the banks of the river, which is where you want to park to wade across (good rock-hopping, but a second pair of footwear to get wet is needed). Approach up decent, steep wash in 20min or so. Sun in the afternoon. Rack and topo good on beta and gear suggestions. Bring extra webbing for the anchors. The "tower" is only detached at the summit from the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : Pinky Tower : Ring Sizer (5.10 PG13)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: The big gear is for the first pitch, the top of the 2nd pitch could take the #3s and maybe a #4. Felt a single rack from .4-1 BD would suffice with 2X #2-#4 BD and 1 #5.
Thanks Sam for the anchor update! However, the next person up should bring a wrench, as the 1/2 Rawl was spinning (the bolt, not the hanger). I tightened it by hand, and hopefully it'll tighten back up with a little wrenching.
P1 gets morning shade, as does most of P2 until the upper bit.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Gooney Bird : Tea Party (5.10+ PG13)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Having read the conflicting comments above about the condition of the summit anchor, I was confused, but hoped for the best and left the drill behind... Well, it hasn't been beefed up yet and currently consists of one good-looking, original 3/8" rawl and a slung soft-rock column... should have lugged the drill up.
Good route with engaging climbing that exceeded my expectations. A double rack from green C3 to #3 BD and a new #4 and #5 BD was adequate, although the 2nd pitch has... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Eagle Plume Tower : Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South... (5.10)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: We rapped Lola too and the anchor bolts were in good shape, and the tat will definitely need swapped in the near future. Although we used two ropes since we weren't sure, it looked like a single 70m should work fine, but not positive about this! With doubled 70s we hit the large blocky ledge atop the 1st pitch with plenty to spare, and rapped on a single to the ground.
I would have liked to have had two #4 BDs on P1, as the 5.7 part felt a bit more challenging than the grade would suggest... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Comb Ridge : 2.6 Miles - Prayer Stick : Magic Man (5.10+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: While this climb is on a cool feature in a great setting, I thought that only the crux pitch was high quality, with the others being on primarily crunchy rock or moving around blocky terrain and pretty forgettable. That said, the crux pitch was beautiful and burly! I wouldn't hesitate to call it a sandbag, and I rather enjoy wide cracks. The bulk of the first 1/2 hovers between baggy #3 and #4 BD; despite my best efforts to squeeze up the layback part, I had to commit to th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Bluff : Cottonwood Wash : Sandwalker Buttress : The Bant (5.9+)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: Was pleasantly surprised with the quality of this little tower, it's one of the best single-pitch towers I've done, and at a modest grade! Great fingers/tips locks and hands, stemming/laybacking, a bouldery finish...the rock was the best I've seen around Bluff, the climbing engaging for the grade, the summit nice...the only downside was that the rappel anchor (positioned to rap off the overhanging east side for a nice free-hanging ride) runs the ropes over a soft, low-angle bulge which is very g... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Weavers Needle : West Chimney (5.0)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Fun adventure hike/scramble. We soloed it and rapped off the gully pitches--1 70m rope rappel (35m) deposited us right at the pipe marking the start of the technical climbing from the anchors atop the chockstones. I'm sure plenty of folks downclimb the gully, which would be reasonable but tedious.


Location: WY : Piney Creek Canyon : Trailside Wall
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: The majority of the Trailside Wall routes were recently retro-fitted with clip-and-lower anchors. This was done in response to the growing popularity of the area, to make these lines both safer and more convenient. I doubt any of these setups will wear out too quickly, but consider toproping through your own draws to help preserve the anchors. Some of the hardware was provided by the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association), check out their website and consider supporting the cause, it's a good... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Fairy Tales (5.13-)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: This route should be moved to between new routes Cocked and Desert Eagle.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire
By: Trevor Bowman When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: You can rap off the summit to the ground with two 70m ropes, the pull wasn't bad as you can doctor the knot a bit up top and walk downhill to pull.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : The Flow (5.8 C1)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: The bulk of P3 is mostly hand/cups with very little wide crack, I really wanted more than just two #2 and #3 BD, 3-4 of each would have cut down on a lot of back cleaning. A varied and good Fisher route!


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Bear Gulch : The Barrel
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Excellent looking lines for sure!


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : B.O. Butress : Tarantella (5.10d)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: The name seems a common source of confusion, as most assume it's named after a furry spider. According to Dockins, Tarantella is a term for a sort of "mad dance". Great Gally line on steeper than usual terrain.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress : Fringe Benefits (5.10c)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for cleaning it Andrew! Yeah, I usually prioritize cleaning new routes thoroughly, but I did this one on a lark on a weekend trip when I wasn't living in Bozone...


Location: MT : Homestake Pass : Gillette Edge : Close Shave (5.10a) : Photo
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: The fresh-faced youth himself! Neil was of no help coining razor related names for these routes as he had yet to graduate from a safety razor at that time...and to think only a handful of years later he's become co-dictator of his own planet...


Location: MT : Homestake Pass : Gillette Edge : Close Shave (5.10a)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Touche sir! Stay off this route or there will be no holds left, hell you'll probably pull the fin over with frantic pawing, clawing, and squealing...


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : World Domination : Mike's Got a Dirty Diaper (5.11d)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Not quite as good as its neighbors to the right IMO. Several pockets held a heavy dust layer that may clean up with more traffic.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Adrenochrome Trundle (5.12-)
By: Trevor Bowman When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Excellent addition to the wall! With the cleaning last summer it's in good shape and offers another stellar juggy roof climb for the zone.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Left Rambo : Liquid Charge (5.10+) : Photo
By: Trevor Bowman When: May 19, 2011

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Comments: Well, clearly Neil has unflappable confidence in the protective powers of his golden locks...and the Italian man-bear (look closer Ty, that ain't my helmet) holding his rope was wise to don said bomb hat as a couple sizable blocks were unleashed.


Location: WY : Piney Creek Canyon
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for Piney Creek Canyon and nine other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed.


Location: WY : Tongue River Canyon
By: Trevor Bowman When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for over 100 routes in Tongue River Canyon and the other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed.


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