Contributed Comments |
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9) By: Travis Haussener When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic!! The start is a little heady for people breaking into the grade or maybe it's just the fall potential. I blew a piece about 20 feet up and ended up falling on a 0 TCU (holding thankfully). Some helpful beta: I thought the lower portion of the finger crack protected way better with nuts it wasn't until halfway up where I was into cam territory. Also if you are a noob like me, bring lots of .5's. I couldn't really find many places to place a .75 until the top. Now go out and do it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Squeeze My Lemon (5.7) By: Travis Haussener When: Aug 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route (enough said). Definitely some spice here and there but nothing that can't be backed up with a solid nut or cam placement. Scariest part for me was doing the second angled traverse to the ow type crack, the holds here ran out and its a relatively big move. Also the nut here (which I assume someone fell on) was removed. I used the #4 but it really isn't protecting anything too scary so if your more confident than an amateur like me you can definitely leave it at home.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Shale for Sale (5.7) By: Travis Haussener When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely not (I'm sure hundreds of people have climbed it)...I just decided to give the crack a name for the sake of the website and logistical purposes.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Shale for Sale (5.7) By: Travis Haussener When: Jul 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I decided to give this one a name if you were the FA and absolutely hate it I'm more than willing to change it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Dam Wall : Fall Equinox (5.8+) By: Travis Haussener When: Jul 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be a solid 5.10 climber or bring a stick clip and a crash pad...the three moves to the second bolt are difficult and pumpy at least for me. I had two choices once I made the move; grab onto the bolt for stability (I know cheating) or fall I chose the former. The rest of the route is a piece of cake after that.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Crack Face (5.7) By: Travis Haussener When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprisingly fun Trad line...the tree at the top is so big I'd sling it to protect the crux move...made me wish I brought one (a sling) once I was up there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Waterfall Dome : For Whom the Bells Toll (5.7) By: Travis Haussener When: Jun 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a lot of trouble finding anything that looked like a trail. No game trails, just an abrupt end after the ten minute hike past the bridge. It looks like a really fun climb (for the want to get alpine experience + some trad and sport, beginner climber like myself) but could probably use a lot more travel. We spent 2 hours hiking and had to bail on the route because we couldn't find a reasonable way (even after a substantial amount of bush whacking) to get to the darn thing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Fleeting Glimpse (5.8+) By: Travis Haussener When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd rate the route PG-13 only because decking before the first bolt will send your leg in between a nice boulder and the wall and your body will keep going downhill...sending you straight to the hospital.
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