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Member Since: Mar 1, 2004
Last Visit: Apr 2, 2004
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Point Rank: # 15,982
Total Points: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 18 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts | Stars 6 | Ratings 6

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Solid Gold (5.10a)
By: TraiseB When: Apr 2, 2004

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Comments: This lovely route has lost many holds recently as evidenced by the fresh granite in contrast to the "water shoot" salman look of the rest of the climb. My partner and I both thought it was 5.10a/5.10b with 1-2 5.10c moves. I do have to admit that I have just recovered from a nastly sprained ankle (bad year?!),...and I was not so gutsy as my partner. After a few clips, I bailed from "fear of pain" should I hit my foot again! (Yes, I wimped--I'll admit it!) Actually, hiking out was the worst part ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Heart and Sole (5.10a)
By: TraiseB When: Mar 1, 2004

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Comments: This route needs a good scrubbing! The traverse is much thinner than I recall and needs a wire brush overhaul! While it is an excellent route, I would only climb it again at about 50 degrees F with no sun. It is slippery at the crux (the traverse??), probably due to the millions of shoes that have traversed it! Still the best route on Echo in my humble opinion. Relatively well protected, but has some real thin sections at the bottem.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: TraiseB When: Mar 1, 2004

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Comments: I've led this route three times. Yep, I'd say it is a strenuous 5.7, but the bottom was pretty easy. Although it takes great crack pro, I found myself doing arm bars at the crux (bulging crack section). Most of it was hand jams for me, but I do have small hands. I did a number of foot jams at the crux, but after that, it was easy climbing with huge holds and good pro. I am fairly conservative and tend to use lots of gear. For any beginners, you may want to follow and clean this route first, it i... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Visual Nightmare (5.10a)
By: TraiseB When: Mar 1, 2004

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Comments: I thought It was a really fun route if you enjoy mixed gear and face climbing. The bottem is really fun if you like finger cracks--pro was adequate. Use small stoppers or cams to protect. I sewed up the horizional crack before doing a small traverse and mantle to the face climbing. The face was well protected. The face climbing did have a couple of 510b moves, although overall, 5.10a seems fair. While It has no stars on the rating, I thought the climb was fun, safe and the rock was solid. Also,... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Tarawassie Wiggle (5.10a PG13)
By: TraiseB When: Mar 1, 2004

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Comments: This is an awesome route! I just led it for the first time last month. Just make sure you have LOTS of small to tiny brass stoppers on your rack! I also had some small aleins and cams. The pro was pretty good until the exit move which, although pretty easy, was scarey to run out on a brass nut! Let's just say I got my arenaline rush for the day.I could see adding a bolt at the top, but I didn't get the first ascent. None the less, I thought was awesome and I would like to do it again. By the way... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: TraiseB When: Mar 1, 2004

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Comments: This is one of my favorites in J-Tree and I've led it three times before. The bottom three bolts are not for the "weak at heart", but with focus, the first run-outs aren't so bad so long as you are confident on your feet. I'd hate to fall as it would be a bone crushing grounder at the first two clips! The route has fabulous rock and "exposure" for a J-tree face route with lots of thin edging and a variety of moves. Just one comment on the top crux. While a bolt was added to the top, in my opinio... more >>