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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : Photo
By: Tosh Peters When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: heres a video of Spiderdan Goodwin free soling this baby in '83 while incorperating some "freestyle moves"... so vintage. that sucks it fell off, i always kinda wanted to climb it after seeing the video.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crack in the Woods (5.9)
By: Tosh Peters When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun stuff. I think the name really reflects the route well, a quaint little climb. really good gear, wish the trasnfer to hand jive didnt look as scary.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: Tosh Peters When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had an amazing time with this route. I did it as one long pitch up the chimney because the start from the top of Crack in the woods looks sketch balls. Ive done green A, Sasquatch, bushwack and cranial profilactic and this felt harder than all of them, so sustained. bring extra green and red camalot sizes if you dont like to run it out.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Escape Buttress : Awakening (5.10a)
By: Tosh Peters When: Oct 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: definitly take the advise to put a long runner on the 5th bolt. my buddy who is a solid 12 leader was making a lap on this the other day with a normal draw on the 5th bolt. Just below the 6th bolt a hold he was using ripped off the wall and fell and started to get caught by the fifth bolt when the rope rolled out of the quickdraw which kicked him backwards and he hit the ledge below the 4th bolt upside down with his arm blocking his head and bounced before being caught on the lower face. he spra... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Eight to Eleven (5.11b)
By: Tosh Peters When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got on this today which is appropriate because the picture here is me on the first part in my first days of leading. I did it as my first route of the day even though this is my onsight grade when warmed up. the first part serving as a good warm up and the position and exposure being some of the best iv'e found in the canyon solidify its classic status.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tarzan (5.10a)
By: Tosh Peters When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finally got on this today after being scared away by a partners ankle injury which forced us onto the sweet jane variation (anyone see a reacurring theme). I had my buddy stand on the ledge to the left, clipped both bolts and took 2 or 3 falls with the bolt around my knees and they didn't feel that bad at all with a watchfull eye on the ledge and a good dynamic belay. I agrea with tea that gear shouldnt be played with until in a good stance. better than sweet jane imo. try it on a cold day.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Suicide Blonde (5.11b)
By: Tosh Peters When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: classic route. i didnt think the polish made it much harder at all, when compared to baghdad at the division wall i would say it falls right in the middle of the grade.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Primal Magic (5.11a)
By: Tosh Peters When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this thing is fun. pocket pulling up to a big layback feature with the crux coming at the end of the feature. i felt like it was just as hard as suicide blonde but i havnt done juggernaut yet.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Steel Monkey (5.10d)
By: Tosh Peters When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: one of the best routes ive done in AF to date. steep climbing with amazing holds and a really powerfull/reachy sequence at the third bolt( clipping the bolt is easy, dont worry). if you enjoy bouldery moves on positive holds you will love this route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Tosh Peters When: Aug 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really good route for moderate trad leaders or anyone who loves a good day on the rocks. all day shade, the cave belay, and the exposed juggy roof pulling on p3 come together to make a bcc classic. I agree that some kind of stairs or rappel possibility should be installed to help people negotiate the shale band gully at the end of the walk off. that thing is a slip and slide.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Les is More (5.10a)
By: Tosh Peters When: Jul 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is a really good 10a. one of the best at the grade ive encountered.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Sasquatch (5.9+)
By: Tosh Peters When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: another must do lcc route. the tips section was intense and the gear is really good the whole route. i would say the leave the number 3 at home because there are places at the start that take nuts. there is a pretty easy traverse to the belay from the top of the first pitch of pentapitch. I took my buddy on this for his first crack climb and he loved it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - The Pile : Dog Pile (5.10b)
By: Tosh Peters When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this thing is really fun and quit sustained, i thought this was hard for 10b.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: Tosh Peters When: Jun 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: like most people have said, im really glad i finally got on this thing. I did the first pitch then climbed jappenese terraces to the big ledge. Then I linked the last 2 pitches together and it was amazing. the moves to the crack from the chains were a definite crux and the finger crack was awsome with some of the best locks ive ever gotten. I clipped the bolt at the top and went right as i had forgotten the topo and felt going left was somewhat of a cop out on the last 10 feet of climbing, it di... more >>
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Black Elk (5.10a)
By: Tosh Peters When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun sustained climbing with a nice "pump crux" from the last bolt to the chains and a good rest before the last 4 bolts.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Last Stand Wall : Scalp Fest (5.10d)
By: Tosh Peters When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is the tallest climb on this wall and is very good. the crux comes when pulling a small roof out of a somewhat blank dihedral. there are actually 8 bolts.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Way Hammered (5.12b)
By: Tosh Peters When: Jun 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have done every move on this now and will hopefully redpoint soon.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane
By: Tosh Peters When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: zero approach is a reach considering there is no way across the river without a tyrolian early season (like now).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Juniper Wall : Blood on the Rocks (5.10b PG13)
By: Tosh Peters When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: definitly a fun climb and contrary to the guidebook at this point it doesnt have any more loose rock than the rest of af. i didnt venture right but was able to clip the chains with a far stretch off a fingerlock in the crack, a taller person than 5'6" would'nt have any trouble.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Treehugger (5.10b)
By: Tosh Peters When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i finally got the redpoint on this today. definitly a great route, it is sustained if your not looking for good rests, i think the consensus on this one is 10c.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Rockapella (5.7)
By: Tosh Peters When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i heard there is a 5.10a second pitch to this, is this true?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Tosh Peters When: May 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: definitly a great climb with a lot of varied climbing. the second and third pitches can be strung together on a 60m offering the meat of the route in one long pitch that definitly gets into a good flow. the traverses are time consuming to protect but they are easy and i think most people run it out a little.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: Tosh Peters When: May 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: finally got on this earlier this week, only did the first 2 pitches and it was great. good for beginning leaders.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Tosh Peters When: Nov 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: oh and i didnt even see the bolts so you guys should definitly chill about them.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Tosh Peters When: Nov 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: this thing is fucking nuts compared to what ive heard and read. maybe doing it in late november had somthing to do with topping out at sundown and bushwacking down a gully towards petes rock. luckily we found a trail after cliffing out on a large waterfall and traversing north. we had a car at petes rock but forgot the keys. basically an epic. as for the climbing, it easy but very serious in places (you could probably sew it up with some wierd traverses). we started left of the ruckman guides li... more >>
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