SPOILER ALERT! Ape arms help; if you got 'em, use 'em. All that liberally-chalked, intermediate bullshit is best left untouched. Grabbeth thy mighty underclings, lock that core down, and windmill your right hand up--all tha way up--for glory. Match, and indeed, cut loose. (Freeing the feet comes naturally. It worked well for me long before having read this description.)
A word about the bolting, though. I call this one "gutsy" not because the falls w... more >>
This is one of those grade-by-sequence deal-ies. If you roll up and clip the crux headwall bolt (right hand on crimp, clip with left) and downclimb back to the ledge to shake out before sending (now switch: left hand will grab the crimp), then yah, GG goes at stout 5.11--call it a "d." But if'n' you just clip on the go and fire, be prepared for solid .12 action. Either way, this one's fairly height-dependent. Oh, and unless the tick birds are in season, a couple of Where's... more >>
What a mess. I mean the MP database on the Creek—not this particular climb.
The name and the description and even the first picture here are accurate. This unnamed (as far as the Bloom book goes) climb is NOT Sunset nuthin’, and it’s NOT 5.11 and it is NOT a zig-zag crack. Worse, it IS the exact same route also listed on MP in needless duplicate, the climb here called, “Your Moma.”
Like I say. What a mess. ANARCHY! Cats and dogs living together…
Comments: Yet another desperate, potentially dangerous Ophir start. Forget the tricams, bring some toilet paper.
I'm sayin' PG-13 rating is jack serious. There's some real potential for real carnage down low if'n you're not half proficient at setting small, wonky, shallow gear. (Think a red C3 in a scandalous, flaring crack.) That said, the crux is protected fantastic by the baddest, most textbook #2 Camalot placement on the planet. Crammit and jammit; you could drop a Cadillac on that t... more >>
Comments: Out. Stand. Ing. Supercrack of the mountains. As good as the Jesus without a penis.
Probably a bit soft for a 10+ if'n, like everyone says, you've got big mitts. Taped manpaws and size 11 feets will fill that fat crack nice enough to make it cruiser. (Though I was still only too happy to have and to place two #4 Camalots.... For that matter, I'm thinkin' the crux actually comes RIGHT off the ground, first sequence of moves.)
Y-crack left is reputed to be a bit softer, but my fat hands ar... more >>
Comments: As for the trouble with clipping both anchors, a leader need only clip the one anyway to lower.
As for all the squawking about chopping bolts just because this one particular climb has some possible placements for pro...I wonder if'n these guys complaining have ever really climbed anywhere in Boulder Canyon before.
Comments: Wondering if going left at the first bulge goes? Bolts SEEM to suggest beta left, but follow chalk right for the road more travelled.
Some criticisms: The second bolt is overkill, as stepping one/two moves up to B3 is a 5.8 gimmie. Clipping B2 would also create unnecessary drag. B4 is just redonkulous, far easier to skip than to clip.
Not a criticism, but worthy of note: The last bolt is griptastically high. Let's not say it's 'runny,' but blowing the clip midway through that V2ish crux woul... more >>
Comments: The fierce 11+ laybacking up top--regardless of how you take it, left or right---is indeed a spank-a-thon.
But mostly because you've spent yourself trying to get established under that hanging arete after you pulled the 11- roof. That 4th to 5th bolt traverse is certainly the crux.
And don't bother TRing this beaut'. The falls are casual swinging affairs. (I would know--took many of them), and once you hit the jug WAY up 'n' left, business hours are over and it's all good, so long as you broug... more >>
Comments: Yes, contrived. Because of the broken nature of the rock. It's not exactly straight up some slab, it's not exactly a steep, clean arete, it's not exactly a technical cross over then cross back on awkward, fun crimps 'n' edges...it's a mash of all that. Plus some crazy inconstancy in grade.
And it DOES wander around a little, this side of the bolts to that side of the bolts and back. AND the lower crux (THE crux?) apparently has beta left and right. (Or so says the chalk marks.)
Comments: RECIPE FOR AN EASY CLEAN: The good ol' Tonsai Trick.
There are, what?, three-ish bolts under the crux roof. Skip the first one, brave leader! It's overkill anyways, and unless you're dwarf short you can, without too much difficulty, clip an extend-O-draw (to reduce drag) on the second. Or else back clean once you've clipped that second bolt.
Now cleaning on lower becomes a snap as you can easily reach down, under the roof, and unclip both the third and the second draw from the jug. Easy piece-... more >>