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WHAT THE HELL IS HE BELAYING WITH!?!


Member Since: Jan 6, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 491
Total Points: 1,262
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Top Rope Hero been climbing?










Contributions


All 977 | Routes 35 | Areas 8 | Photos 134 | Page Improvements | Comments 122 | Posts 79 | Stars 327 | Ratings 272
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Cut Loose (5.11-)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 26, 2014

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Comments: Fun, gutsy, one-move 11- wonder.

SPOILER ALERT! Ape arms help; if you got 'em, use 'em. All that liberally-chalked, intermediate bullshit is best left untouched. Grabbeth thy mighty underclings, lock that core down, and windmill your right hand up--all tha way up--for glory. Match, and indeed, cut loose. (Freeing the feet comes naturally. It worked well for me long before having read this description.)

A word about the bolting, though. I call this one "gutsy" not because the falls w... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Galatinani : Nymfi (5.12b)
By: Top Rope Hero When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: (Sigh...)

How I miss Kalymnos...


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : ... : Photo
By: Top Rope Hero When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: That's. Fucking. Awesome.

Or should I say, "precious"?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : No Laughing Matter (5.10-)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Some of the absolute worse gear I've ever climbed above.

Some of the absolute best moves across stone I've ever enjoyed.

Not for the feint of heart, true. But for the bold or the reckless or both, this line is a must, must do. (And for those with monkey arms, this will likely feel like it's clocking in at 9+)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge : The Learning Curve (5.12a)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: You know what the hardest part of contracting "you" and "are" is?

(Clearly not grammar strong...)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Loompa (5.10c)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: 5.10z+


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Guide Wall : Mona Lisa Crack (5.8-) : Photo
By: Top Rope Hero When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: WICKED OVERHANGING! And just LOOK at that anti-gravity double fall line... 5.16a?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Forearm Follies (5.11d) : Photo
By: Top Rope Hero When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: NO SHAME! Trees are natural! I say they're on route....


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Breakfast Burrito (5.10c)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Alternatively...

you can manufacture a 10a outta this and go for the full pucker factor by simply skipping the crux clip...


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Short Dude (5.11-) : Photo
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Nice, uhmm...smile.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Impeachment Day Parade (5.11d)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Bring a couple of long draws/slings for rope drag, and bring a couple of ape arms and some upper body UMPH! to drop this to 11c.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Golden Gate (5.11d)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: [MINOR SPOILER ALERT]

This is one of those grade-by-sequence deal-ies. If you roll up and clip the crux headwall bolt (right hand on crimp, clip with left) and downclimb back to the ledge to shake out before sending (now switch: left hand will grab the crimp), then yah, GG goes at stout 5.11--call it a "d." But if'n' you just clip on the go and fire, be prepared for solid .12 action. Either way, this one's fairly height-dependent. Oh, and unless the tick birds are in season, a couple of Where's... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Uplift Mofo Party Plan (5.11b)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Brachiate?

Are we gibbons, now.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown 10+ (5.10+)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: (Big. Dramatic. Sigh.)

What a mess. I mean the MP database on the Creek—not this particular climb.

The name and the description and even the first picture here are accurate. This unnamed (as far as the Bloom book goes) climb is NOT Sunset nuthin’, and it’s NOT 5.11 and it is NOT a zig-zag crack. Worse, it IS the exact same route also listed on MP in needless duplicate, the climb here called, “Your Moma.”

Like I say. What a mess. ANARCHY! Cats and dogs living together…

Part of the problem her... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Big Guy (5.11-) : Photo
By: Top Rope Hero When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Wait...no hands...but is this ALSO NO ROPE!?!?!


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Cheeseburger in Paradise (5.10+ PG13)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Yet another desperate, potentially dangerous Ophir start. Forget the tricams, bring some toilet paper.

I'm sayin' PG-13 rating is jack serious. There's some real potential for real carnage down low if'n you're not half proficient at setting small, wonky, shallow gear. (Think a red C3 in a scandalous, flaring crack.) That said, the crux is protected fantastic by the baddest, most textbook #2 Camalot placement on the planet. Crammit and jammit; you could drop a Cadillac on that t... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Y-Crack (5.10d)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Out. Stand. Ing. Supercrack of the mountains. As good as the Jesus without a penis.

Probably a bit soft for a 10+ if'n, like everyone says, you've got big mitts. Taped manpaws and size 11 feets will fill that fat crack nice enough to make it cruiser. (Though I was still only too happy to have and to place two #4 Camalots.... For that matter, I'm thinkin' the crux actually comes RIGHT off the ground, first sequence of moves.)

Y-crack left is reputed to be a bit softer, but my fat hands ar... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: As for the trouble with clipping both anchors, a leader need only clip the one anyway to lower.

As for all the squawking about chopping bolts just because this one particular climb has some possible placements for pro...I wonder if'n these guys complaining have ever really climbed anywhere in Boulder Canyon before.

This ain't Yosum, fellas...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Crosswinds : Serpant's Rising (5.11c)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: Wondering if going left at the first bulge goes? Bolts SEEM to suggest beta left, but follow chalk right for the road more travelled.

Some criticisms: The second bolt is overkill, as stepping one/two moves up to B3 is a 5.8 gimmie. Clipping B2 would also create unnecessary drag. B4 is just redonkulous, far easier to skip than to clip.

Not a criticism, but worthy of note: The last bolt is griptastically high. Let's not say it's 'runny,' but blowing the clip midway through that V2ish crux woul... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Constant Gardener (aka ... (5.12)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: The fierce 11+ laybacking up top--regardless of how you take it, left or right---is indeed a spank-a-thon.

But mostly because you've spent yourself trying to get established under that hanging arete after you pulled the 11- roof. That 4th to 5th bolt traverse is certainly the crux.

And don't bother TRing this beaut'. The falls are casual swinging affairs. (I would know--took many of them), and once you hit the jug WAY up 'n' left, business hours are over and it's all good, so long as you broug... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Delusions of Grandeur (5.12b)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: There's this thing? It's called a stick clip?



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Tierra Del Fuego (5.11b)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: Yes, contrived. Because of the broken nature of the rock. It's not exactly straight up some slab, it's not exactly a steep, clean arete, it's not exactly a technical cross over then cross back on awkward, fun crimps 'n' edges...it's a mash of all that. Plus some crazy inconstancy in grade.

And it DOES wander around a little, this side of the bolts to that side of the bolts and back. AND the lower crux (THE crux?) apparently has beta left and right. (Or so says the chalk marks.)

Still. A very ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: RECIPE FOR AN EASY CLEAN: The good ol' Tonsai Trick.

There are, what?, three-ish bolts under the crux roof. Skip the first one, brave leader! It's overkill anyways, and unless you're dwarf short you can, without too much difficulty, clip an extend-O-draw (to reduce drag) on the second. Or else back clean once you've clipped that second bolt.

Now cleaning on lower becomes a snap as you can easily reach down, under the roof, and unclip both the third and the second draw from the jug. Easy piece-... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: Top Rope Hero When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: Kinda fun (in that sad, big sigh kinda way) reading all the Roberts comments here, like he's still all here, in real time and everything.

R.I.P. Jack.


Location: Chuck McQuade : Misc. Climbing Photos : Photo
By: Top Rope Hero When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: Shadows. I'd know that slot anywhere. Settin' up for the iron cross travy. NICE man...


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