Mountain Project : tooTALLtim

I moved here from Illinois in August 06. I'd been close to the ground for the past 23 years, and now all I want to do is get as far away as possible from terra firma.

"When in doubt, run it out!" and then shit in your pants.

I see big falls not as the failure of the climber, but only where ability and boldness have separated, and boldness decided to keep going.

"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered.
An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered."

"Better that we raise our skill than lower the climb." Robbins

"Sport Climbing is Neither"
Hehehe, though it can be fun. I just don't like the habits it
can develop. It's good I was shown trad before it was too late!

"But every climb is not for every climber; the ultimate climbs are not democratic. The fortunate climbs protect themselves by being unprotectable and remain a challenge that can be solved only by boldness and commitment backed solidly by technique. Climbs that are forced clean by the application of boldness should be similarly respected, lest a climber be guilty of destroying a line for the future's capable climber to satisfy his impatient ego in the present -- by waiting he might become one of the future capables. Waiting is also necessary; every climb has its time, which need not be today.

Besides leaving alone what one cannot climb in good style, there are some practical corollaries of boldness in free climbing. Learning to climb down is valuable for retreating from a clean and bold place that gets too airy. And having the humility to back off rather than continue in bad style -- a thing well begun is not lost. The experience cannot be taken away. By such a system there can never again be “last great problems” but only “next great problems” ” Doug Robinson

“Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself – and nature.” Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 Chouinard Catalog, p.3

Why Climbing is Better than Sex (a man's perspective)
When you climb, you only have to get yourself to the peak. If you climb with someone other than your regular partner, no one gets mad, in fact, you can all three climb together and share protection ! You can reuse your protection, and someone else even cleans it for you, provided you don't put it in too deep. You can leave your protection in for the next guy. There IS such a thing as being too overhung. A good hand jam can be as satisfying as any other kind of jam. No matter how many times you fall off, you can always climb back on. Having a belay slave is not a criminal offense. The rocks never expect you to call afterward. Dry friction is a positive quality when you're climbing. The rocks don't care if you show up late. The rocks don't complain after 7 or 8 pitches. When you're climbing, a good two-finger jam will support your body weight. When you're climbing, weird body positions are considered "cool". The rocks don't complain when you don't want to do cracks anymore and want to do some face. A three-finger pocket isn't too big. You don't have to wait an hour after getting pumped-out. If you pop off early, the only one mad at you is yourself. If you end up with little bumps on your skin, you can probably blame Poison Ivy or mosquitoes. The gear is safer. And reusable. Chalk is easier to get off the hands. No one thinks you're weird if you have to feel around for a hole/hold. Climbing w/o gear is safer than sex without gear. Routes have safety grades, sex partners don't. Its ok to stick your hands, feet, fingers, knees, nose, etc into any and all cracks while climbing. You don't have to wash your climbing toys after using them. A climb can last all day. Guidebooks tell you who did the 1st ascent and how many time it's been done. Lots of tight cracks. The only rubber you wear is on your feet. There are still rocks that haven't been touched. I have many climbing partners.

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