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Member Since: Dec 24, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 9,745
Total Points: 29
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tony Whitney been climbing?










Contributions


All 26 | Routes | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts | Stars 7 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Poodlesby (5.6)
By: Tony Whitney When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This was a great route for a beginner to JT. A couple of things. The flake on the traverse below the second roof is really loose. Placements to protect the traverse are very insecure. Once traversing around right under the roof, there is a nice place to build an anchor and belay the second. The rap off is just around and up right. If you are top roping this route from the rap anchors, realize that the finish is not 5.6, it is way harder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : White Lightning (5.7)
By: Tony Whitney When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this route last weekend. I thought it was a great climb and an excellent example of JT crack climbing (one foot in and one foot out). I am used to climbing Red Rock NV, so I might not have the comparisons down completely. This felt way harder than any 5.7 I have ever done. I guess what my partner told me is true..."In JT, the first 20 feet don't count".


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Skid Mark (5.10a)
By: Tony Whitney When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Had a blast on this route. I have top roped it a couple of times, but lead it for the first time this weekend. This route is very well protected after the first (second?) bolt. The small roof was both a lot of fun and protected so well, you have to watch for a z clip at the anchors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall
By: Tony Whitney When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: I found a gri gri at meetup wall today (February 15 2015). I like booty, but don't like bad karma. If you left your gear here, contact me and describe it and where you left it, and I will get it to you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Little Black Book (5.4)
By: Tony Whitney When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: This route is a lot of fun. It has a couple of moves that seem just a little hard for 5.4, but it protects well enough to zipper it up. The hardest move will be the start if the cheater tree ever goes away. When faced with a choice to go right towards the corner or left through a small bulge at about 25 feet, go left through the bulge. It is a long route and used all but about 6 feet of my 60m rope. There are rap rings on a stout bush on top, but the crack at the top seems like a real rope eater... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : East India Trading Co. (5.7)
By: Tony Whitney When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: I never really knew what people meant when people commented about routes needing to be cleaned up until this weekend. We climbed four of the routes right of the trad climb (including the 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10. They all had multiple holds break on us. Even being careful, much of the climb is still very friable.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Frailty Thy Name is Sandsto... (5.7) : Photo
By: Tony Whitney When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Wanders a little, but a great route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost And Found Crag
By: Tony Whitney When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: I am looking for a little bit better beta on the approach. Just getting back into trad, and like the idea of these easy single pitch routes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Go Ahead and Jump (5.7)
By: Tony Whitney When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: I only did the route to the first tree. Nice route, but for the beginning leader, the crack is very deep and you need to be careful about your cams walking. It was fun, but I spent a little to much time placing gear, and my right calf cramped something fierce. Because the route is easily top roped on your own anchor, it would be a great place to learn how to place gear while on top rope. I am going to go back and finish the route, the upper part looked interesting. A little warning. If you are g... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Tonto (5.5)
By: Tony Whitney When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: This is a classic route at RR. It is a great way to learn trad. It is well protected and teaches how to use longer slings to help with rope drag. As of May 26th, the slings around the tree are good. Beware of the rappel, there is quite the overhang on the way down.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mother's Crag : Dream Girl (5.4)
By: Tony Whitney When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: I agree that this is a very fun route. It was my sport climbing partner's first trad lead, and my first lead in many years. This route protects very well. It would be a fun place to practice looking for nut placements. The only thing that makes it a little difficult for a beginning climber is that the belay at the top is out of sight of most of the climb. This makes communication difficult. Overall, very fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : Manifest Destiny (5.9+)
By: Tony Whitney When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: I too really enjoyed this route. I agree with the comment about the second clip. If you clip low, the deck potential is very high. Also, the right bolt at the anchors is spinning.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : Upcoming Meetups (5.10a)
By: Tony Whitney When: Dec 30, 2011

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Comments: I agree about the slab comments. If you need to work on trust issues with your feet and friction, this is a great route to do it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : No Teaching! (5.7)
By: Tony Whitney When: Dec 30, 2011

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Comments: This is a great warm up route. It seems soft for the rating, and there are foot an hand holds every where you need them. Great beginner lead.


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