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Member Since: Jun 20, 2007
Last Visit: Jan 22, 2013
Contact Tony Mayse


Point Rank: # 7,532
Total Points: 40
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tony Mayse been climbing?










Contributions


All 35 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 6 | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Headwall : Chicago Bound (5.11b R)
By: Tony Mayse When: Jan 18, 2013

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Comments: The rating of this route is 11c (hard). The climbing through the last three bolts are sustained and totally in your face. There are no "easy" sections on this route.


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : South America : Charlie Manson Look Alike C... (5.10d X)
By: Tony Mayse When: Jan 18, 2013

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Comments: The bolt is far from questionable.
The upgraded bolt is a 3" stainless steel 1/2" Fixe Triplex bolt, they do not get much better.
The bolt was replaced about 5 years ago, it should last through our life time.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Tied to the Whipping Post (5.13a) : Photo
By: Tony Mayse When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: I really like this pic Ryan! Thanks!


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Last Rites (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tony Mayse When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: It has just been brought to my attention that the current Oklahoma Select 2010 only has quickdraws for gear beta on this route? The 2004 Ok Select called for cams to #4. Not sure how this beta was omitted in the current guide.

~Tony Mayse


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Blades of Steel (5.11)
By: Tony Mayse When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: The tree that was once behind the route is now gone due to the fire last year (2011). The route did have copper heads protecting the upper moves, bolts were placed to replace the old heads and installed at pretty much the same height as the heads as not to change the nature of the climbing. Not a sport route.


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall : Baptism (5.10b R)
By: Tony Mayse When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Not sure how that happened, sorry Terry.


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : South America : L.A. Woman (5.11d)
By: Tony Mayse When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: From the second bolt on Amazon tread right and up through fun climbing on good holds. The hard moves are at the bolt (1st crux), then again at the second bolt (crux) with a runout to the anchor over moderate terrain. Great route!


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Sea of Screams : Silent Scream (5.10b X)
By: Tony Mayse When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Over the last couple years some holds have broken off making this route more in the 10d range.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Crab Eyes : East Face : The Claw (5.10c)
By: Tony Mayse When: Dec 8, 2011

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Comments: Shown in the Oklahoma Select as a variation for ending The Claw. Step right to a finger crack and face holds (10-)in lieu of going over the boulder to finish the pitch. Bring finger size cams.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Fingers In A Lightsocket (5.11+)
By: Tony Mayse When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: I was just out a few days ago.
My gear was .50 Camalot at the start, 1.0 Camalot at the pod just below the first edge/rest, then gray Aliens the entire way. I fell before the last rest (flamed out). From the stem rest at the top I placed a gray alien then went to the top, probably looking at a 20 footer if you blow the crux but the gray Aliens are bomber.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : League of Doom (5.11c R)
By: Tony Mayse When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: I have always linked the top two pitches.

If you are feeling solid the entire route can be done in one long pitch. Place long runners on everything and you will have min. rope drag.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge
By: Tony Mayse When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: I've never had to bring 20'of webbing to set up anything. Cams, cordellete, maybe a couple slings if you're toproping stuff.

Poison ivy in cracks? Hmmm.. I have never had that problem.

Ticks. Yea, like any green area there are ticks but in the 20 years I've been climbing in the Refuge I might get one or two if I don't use bug spray.

A good early AM area to climb in the summer is..
West Face of Crab Eyes, Echo Dome, Hidden Wall, Lost Dome to name a few..


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Headwall : Wild Child (5.11d)
By: Tony Mayse When: Dec 11, 2010

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Comments: When this route was first put up there was a good hold (10d) at the crux move just below the bolt. That hold has long since dissapeared. Now there are small, sharp edges where the good hold once was giving the route it's rating of 11d. Hard move at the bolt pulling onto the arete, then easier but run out climbing up the arete to a two-bolt anchor.The position of this climb is awesome.
  • Note of caution* There are fragile flakes that are used when trying to get established onto the arete. Please d...
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Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Cave Creek : Hidden Wall & Big Eyes Wall : Involuntary Manslaughter (5.10+)
By: Tony Mayse When: Dec 11, 2010

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Comments: Always felt like the move getting into the crack was 5.11...


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Cave Creek : Hidden Wall & Big Eyes Wall : Flying Elvis (5.12a)
By: Tony Mayse When: Dec 8, 2010

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Comments: With permission from my friend Chad I post this message.

Dear friends,

If you are not aware, there's a bit of a controversy brewing in the Arkansas climbing community. The central issue is that some climbers are putting fixed chains on routes that were previously established without such niceties. By fixed chains, I'm referring to 10 inches of heavy chain link attached permanently to the bolt hangar on one end and to a carabiner on the terminal end. This amounts to a permanently fixed draw.

... more >>


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Sea of Screams : Scream Dream (5.10d R)
By: Tony Mayse When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: Hardly a slab climb..
Steep thin moves (5.11) at the bolt, continue up to a precarious stance and easier but runout climbing to the same anchors as Silent Scream and TBF.I looked at this climb many years ago when I first started climbing at Quartz.. probably could have done it back then but would have been at my limit. Outstanding route but rarely done..


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Sea of Screams : Monkey on a Football (5.6 PG13)
By: Tony Mayse When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: This route should have never been bolted... It's a scramble at best. My stepson Alex did this with us when he was 9 years old. We use to scramble up to get to the upper ledges.


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Headwall : Watch me Im wasted (5.10b/c R)
By: Tony Mayse When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: The only way to do this route is start on Chicago Bound Direct then continue up Watch Me...


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : South America
By: Tony Mayse When: Oct 22, 2010

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Comments: The pro is nill?? What?

Climb the first two bolts of Amazon Woman then tread to the right on 5.10 climbing to a bolt that protects the first crux of LA Woman. From here, either move up straight above the bolt to a mantle move or step right for the "original" FA move going up a rib to another mantle, this move creates a pendulum swing should you fall. I have fallen from this move, not bad at all. The "Direct" move straight above the bolt is awesome and well protected, you are making all the hard... more >>


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Cave Creek : Hidden Wall & Big Eyes Wall : Flying Elvis (5.12a)
By: Tony Mayse When: May 15, 2010

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Comments: Someone keeps hanging fixed draws on this route?? Please stop! I have taken them down once and now they are back? Look, we put the route up without these ugly metal draws fixed to the bolts and that's the way we want to keep it! Take em' down or I will add the metal to my chain collection! ~Tony Mayse


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Valley of The Blind : The Black (5.13a)
By: Tony Mayse When: May 15, 2010

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Comments: This was one of my proudest routes to put up. My wife Lori and I came down on a 38 deg. fall day in 2003 to climb the route in it's entirety in one pitch. This route will always be special to me. I hope everyone enjoys the line as much as I have!

Cheers,

Tony Mayse


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings
By: Tony Mayse When: May 15, 2010

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Comments: Cole's book is a nice color guide with nice action photos. The book down grades many routes. I have been climbing in Arkansas for the last 20 years and am taken back by the the multiple down grades on routes that have been established and confirmed by many climbers over the years. Ratings should not be down graded once you have dialed the route and decided that it is easier. Grades are set for on-sights not rehearsed work sessions. Clay's book gives a more realistic rating of the routes in my op... more >>


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Headwall : Wild Child (5.11d)
By: Tony Mayse When: Sep 24, 2007

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Comments: Same start for "free Anorexia" the aid Anorexia is up approx. 10'-12' feet and starts with rivets.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall : SuperNatural (5.12)
By: Tony Mayse When: Aug 9, 2007

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Comments: Nice work Jeremy. I agree with what my good friend Gary Olsen said.


Location: OK
By: Tony Mayse When: Aug 8, 2007

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Comments: Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. The 2004 guide book covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. Guide book author Tony Mayse.