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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Badlands (5.12a)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not too bad with the right beta.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Bound for Glory (5.12b)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sure this route would be much harder if you are short.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Upper Boulder Field : The Platform
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anybody knows better names for these please share them.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Patriot Crack Area : ... : Fish Flop (V2)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't climb as good as it looks, but still a fun problem.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Patriot Crack Area : ... : Buddha (V5)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best boulder problems I've climbed in Ogden.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Zor the Mantle (5.9+)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That ledge offers no relief until you're standing on it!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Zor the Mantle (5.9+)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this in a light rain last spring, which made the liebacks above the pin pretty exciting. If this weren't stranded in the middle of the west bluff, I think it would be a classic.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So does this start on the arete or not?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Moldy Buttress : Mother of Pearl (5.10b)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climbs the right face only of the Cul-de-Sac dihedral. Presumably it tops out the same as Cul-de-Sac, however you can climb the face/corner to the left of the standard top out. Doing this adds a few fun slab moves and makes the climb more continuous. I also thought this was harder than Hales Corner.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Jamboree (5.6)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me this route was the fun kind of awkward.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Ottobahn (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty good route, and I wouldn't even call it a squeeze job. Don't let it's location back in the corner keep you from getting on it.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Hypoglycemia (5.7) : Photo
By: Tony Brengosz When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anybody know anything about the two cracks on the right face? The book says the left is 10d and the right is 10a. I can see 10a for the right crack, but I was stumped when trying the left side.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Brother Without a Brain (5.11a)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: How close does this stay to the corner? I moved left through the overhang, and then slowly trended back towards the corner for the rest of the route.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Touch & Go (5.7 R)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best of the routes that start in the gully.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Pussy Galore's Flying Circu... (5.7)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the left exit was probably no harder than 5.7, but it was awkward, and the tree gets in the way a bit.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Double Clutch (AKA Chickens... (5.12a R)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does this start off the ground? If so, yikes. We started up and left near the base of Man and Superman, which avoids the heinously thin start from the ground. Other than that, this is a great route. A good mix of power and technique get you through the crux, then easier climbing up to a great finish bulge and top out slab.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Angle of the Dangle (5.12a)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the guide's description is the proper one. From the flake you do a cool undercling move, then up the think crack, all on relatively decent holds. Not sure if anything broke or not, but it still goes, even if the crux crimp is thin and pretty sharp. If that hold were better, I think this would be a classic 11 for the lake, but as is I think it detracts a bit from the quality, and the 5.12 grade maybe scares people away.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Tony Brengosz When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The phrase "needs some landing work" is usually a bit of an understatement at the lake.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Cobble Almighty (5.12a)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a cool extension, but still quite loose up top. Both times I went up it I knocked off baseball size rocks. I don't think it warrants a higher grade than either Ground Works or Afterglow (depending on which route you choose to climb as the start), seeing as there is a big no hands rest at the cobble.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Hypoglycemia (5.7)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Jul 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this hypoglycemia or Chlorosis? The guide is a bit vague, but it seemed like Chlorosis traverses under the roof, and Hypoglycemia goes up the dihedral another 10 feet or so, then through the slight groove above the roof. Either way, I thought that traversing under the roof and going up was a great little climb, and tough for the grade.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Rich and Famous (5.11d)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Jul 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great moves through the roof, and it sticks with you until you're standing on the ledge. Definitely felt a bit sandy for 11d though.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Queen's Face (5.8) : Photo
By: Tony Brengosz When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a picture of the tops of the climbs.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : Zschiesche's Roof (5.13+)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody have any beta for this?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Hourglass Direct (5.12a)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am so torn up about this, I just pitched a belated wobbler.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Hourglass Direct (5.12a)
By: Tony Brengosz When: Jun 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The blocks on the ledge are on for feet right? I couldn't figure a way to do it without using them.
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