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Member Since: Oct 11, 2011
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 14,547
Total Points: 13
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 13 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Proud Mary (5.10c/d)
By: tony bird When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Pollo, if you call the rest of it "mild climbing", you probably missed the crossing with Xeno Dance. You cross Xeno--don't join it. The top half of Xeno is mild, the top half of Proud Mary is harder than the bottom. The hardest move is right at the end--a mantle just before the anchors.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Proud Mary (5.10c/d)
By: tony bird When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: one of the top routes on this wall--several cruxes, with a devilish exit mantle.

a 3/4" to 1" cam in a slot above the entry flake will protect the approach to that high first bolt.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Upper Tier : K-9 (5.10b)
By: tony bird When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Nice 5.8 climbing with a single well-protected crux move. This climb will be featured in my upcoming "Guide to the Giveaways".


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Upper Tier : Welcome to Echo (5.10a)
By: tony bird When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: What Cory said. I like this one.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Upper Tier : Reverb (5.10a)
By: tony bird When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: A deceptively inviting line, sustained 10a with more difficult holds and less resting than the 10a to the left.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Upper Tier : Doggie Style (5.10a)
By: tony bird When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Harder than the other 10a's on this face. Crux at top is steep and involves handholds which are either sharp or thin.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Grotto : Lowrider (5.10b)
By: tony bird When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Never liked this route. An alleged 10b harder than most of the 10c's at Echo. Not bolted right either--second bolt should be a bit higher, third bolt is superfluous--the climb is over when you can palm that ledge. Awkward handholds and not much for feet, you can waste a lot of time on this little climb, and if you finally get it, you'll find that it doesn't call you back. But it sure looks tempting for first-timers.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon
By: tony bird When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: It's probably worth mentioning that a ranger talked to one of our Texas Canyon group and asked her to spread the word among others to display the Adventure Pass. The ranger then talked about the need for facilities for climbers there, such as toilets and picnic tables. (Just what we need--picnic tables.) I guess that's sort of like the highway patrol stopping you for going 90 miles an hour and asking you to spread the word among your friends to slow down a bit, it makes the road safer. I sure wi... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon
By: tony bird When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: "National Forest Fee Area" is not the same as "Parked Vehicles Must Display an Adventure Pass". Rowher Flats seems to be a jointly administered area of California State Parks and the U.S. Forest Service. It's ambiguous as to what "fee" refers to in that sign. ORV people have to pay a California fee, and that money is used for facilities and administration of the off-road area, which is the main purpose of Rowher. Rock climbing just happened to come along because of the rocks there and is not rel... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Photo
By: tony bird When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful--looks better than it is!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Roadside Cracks (5.10)
By: tony bird When: Jan 15, 2012

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Comments: haha--i remember a group of us whacking at this thing quite awhile ago--spent the better part of two hours trying to get that first move. then mike hearn (anyone remember him?) backed off to the other side of hwy. 33 and got a full-speed running start to a flying leap and nailed it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Final Act (5.6)
By: tony bird When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: i watch a fella from outa state take a fall on the lower section. they had picked the route because, at 5.4, it was theoretically the easiest on the crag.

look up and over your right shoulder when you get stuck. your good buddy is a big, black block. we took considerable trouble to install it there.

if you get bored with the direct finish, move out and right onto the shelf--an airy traverse, followed by delicate face moves to the final ledge. extra credit if you don't bellyflop the mantle.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : The Cathouse : Tourette's Syndrome (5.10c)
By: tony bird When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: yea--what these guys said ^^^


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