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Member Since: Oct 11, 2011
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2014
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Roadside Cracks (5.10)
By: tony bird When: Jan 15, 2012

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Comments: haha--i remember a group of us whacking at this thing quite awhile ago--spent the better part of two hours trying to get that first move. then mike hearn (anyone remember him?) backed off to the other side of hwy. 33 and got a full-speed running start to a flying leap and nailed it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Final Act (5.6)
By: tony bird When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: i watch a fella from outa state take a fall on the lower section. they had picked the route because, at 5.4, it was theoretically the easiest on the crag.

look up and over your right shoulder when you get stuck. your good buddy is a big, black block. we took considerable trouble to install it there.

if you get bored with the direct finish, move out and right onto the shelf--an airy traverse, followed by delicate face moves to the final ledge. extra credit if you don't bellyflop the mantle.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : The Cathouse : Tourette's Syndrome (5.10c)
By: tony bird When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: yea--what these guys said ^^^