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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Tony B


Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,867
Last Year: 424
Last 30 Days: 86
406 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 14609 | Routes 1247 | Areas 121 | Photos 1383 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1661 | Posts 4527 | Stars 3572 | Ratings 2096
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Tony B : Springfield Gorge, OH : Photo
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: What is the problem? Socks with climbing shoes too much of a fashion statement for you guys?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Third Advisor : Supposed Former Grade Infla... (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Someone should go get on this thing and check it out - verify grade, etc....


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Well, you can click the "details" link and see a consensus voting, but some of those were right after it was entered, and some apparently follow Bernard's book rating. For my own part, it never occurred to me that I might fall off, which generally occurs to me in the 11 range. But bear in mind that long reaches to big holds through steep territory is my strength.... I figured it might be 11-.
I thought it easier than Hunting Party or Broken Arrow.
These are good routes, BTW - thanks for equipp... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Don't let the grade intimidate you. The bolts are at your hips, and it is nowhere near 5.12 if you find the right sequence. I came off it relaxed and thought it was 10+ (Eldo 10c) before reading this.
Long arm-span probably helped, and shorter people will suffer a harder crux.


Location: Tony B : Desert sandstone climbing. ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Indian Creek at Sunset might as well be on some days...


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Orangutang (V2-3)
By: Tony B When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: Orang Utan (Oragutan) is Bahasa Indonesia for "Man Forest" or 'Man of the Forest' which is the name they gave to the primates we still call that today.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: Great route with continuous climbing on P2 if you go right from the roof. Every other move is significant, every second stance is rest... it never goes away but never exhausts you. Exciting but not lethal. A great first "heads up" lead for a 5.10 climber.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Shady Deal (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: The number of extra bolts on the route is similar to the number of extra letter-grades it was given above its actual difficulty. But at least it is a fun patch of rock, even if a little short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Zee Eliminator (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Not a great route- a little crumbly- would improve with some more traffic/cleaning.
Best rack is med nuts- 3" cam with doubles from 1-2".


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Broken Arrow (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: Maybe it is a height thing - I thought the clips were OK but were meant to be clipped from a high stance rather than pulling a lot of rope up. Great climb that requires the leader to milk the good holds for rests and maintain good footwork. Bullet rock.
Just when you think it is over - there is a final surprise.
Too bad it isn't a longer climb and a nicer setting, or it would be 4-star. 3-star as it is.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: If the leader took a fall, that belayer would be in trouble....


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Spider Lady (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: +1 victim to the unexpected experience on the slab. I don't think it was 5.10, but when I reached the end of the traverse, I was happy I'd sunk a few pieces in before starting it, as I was looking at a hot and greasy last move in the sun... and a long and violent swing if I'd slipped.
The rest of the route is fun and varied - and the rock is mostly good.


Location: Tony B : Humor... or at least my sen... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: "You can't fix stupid."
You can't even stop it this way - but that ground at the bottom of the cliff...? THAT can stop stupid.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: That happens from time to time - look in the photo taken only seconds before it here:
Joseffa Meir approaches the crux moves of the third pitch (10b) of 'The Naked Edge' in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/07.
Joseffa Meir approaches the crux moves of the third pitch (10b) of 'The Naked Edge' in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/07.


and you can see it is not hung up.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : "The Route on the Left" aka... (5.10b/c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Note:
mountainproject.com/v/free-boo...


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks : deGaulle's Nose free route (5.11d)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: It's 5.10- climbing to a hard move or two on secure locks, but DO NOT try this one in the cold....


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Showcase (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: This is not even close to 5.11 unless your hands are like bear paws, and even then, I doubt it. I'm giving it 1 star to reflect the 1/4 pitch worth of 4-star climbing. It's just too short to call it much more.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Igor Unleashed (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Well, forget that flat chip for the left hand at the crux - I leaned back on it to shift a foot, and both it and I went airborne.... The hold is now uneven and very sharp and thin. Thin enough to sever the skin off of "pinged" fingers.
The move is a lot harder now. As my partner said it - this is an "evolutionary" route....
Get on it with thick, fresh tips.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Blackout (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: Still full of bird poo as of today.


Location: General Climbing : A Lee Smith Spin-off - Na... : Post : Photo
By: Tony B When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: Nope - P2 of The Naked Edge.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Sidewinder (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: I think the climb was named for the fact that you wind around time after time to get the other side in - the feet alternate from side A to side B several times. If you don't like offwidth, this is hell. If you like offwidth, this is 200'+ of fun!


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Steppenwolf (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: High-top shoes will save the ankles some wear and tear on this one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Dec 25, 2011

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Comments: "Beautiful route may try it in one long pitch like Chianti next time?? Anyone done this?"
Yes, that's usually how people do it. But if so, you have to be solid. With 40M of rope out, the crux has ledge-fall potential.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: I moved to Boulder in 1995 and did the route twice with no bolts on P1 before it was retro-bolted. I recorded notes (in autumn of 1996 according to my climbing journal) on the opening moves were on the offset nut placed to protect the moves, as there was no such bolt.
I had thought that the current bolts were ACE approved retros, but I must admit, I searched the archives for info and could not find it.
The best data I have indicates that the bolts were not there in 1996 when I climbed it with Ta... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: That's really odd. I won't say what rack you did or didn't climb the route on, and I won't say how hard it was for you... but I can tell you that you didn't clip a "first bolt" on it 18 years ago. There were not any bolts on it in 1993... or 1994 or 1995 or 1996... I am not sure when they arrived.


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