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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Tony B


Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,715
Last Year: 470
Last 30 Days: 76
394 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tony B been climbing?










Contributions


All 14478 | Routes 1238 | Areas 121 | Photos 1375 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1643 | Posts 4491 | Stars 3540 | Ratings 2069
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Sidewinder (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: I think the climb was named for the fact that you wind around time after time to get the other side in - the feet alternate from side A to side B several times. If you don't like offwidth, this is hell. If you like offwidth, this is 200'+ of fun!


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Steppenwolf (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: High-top shoes will save the ankles some wear and tear on this one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Dec 25, 2011

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Comments: "Beautiful route may try it in one long pitch like Chianti next time?? Anyone done this?"
Yes, that's usually how people do it. But if so, you have to be solid. With 40M of rope out, the crux has ledge-fall potential.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: I moved to Boulder in 1995 and did the route twice with no bolts on P1 before it was retro-bolted. I recorded notes (in autumn of 1996 according to my climbing journal) on the opening moves were on the offset nut placed to protect the moves, as there was no such bolt.
I had thought that the current bolts were ACE approved retros, but I must admit, I searched the archives for info and could not find it.
The best data I have indicates that the bolts were not there in 1996 when I climbed it with Ta... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: That's really odd. I won't say what rack you did or didn't climb the route on, and I won't say how hard it was for you... but I can tell you that you didn't clip a "first bolt" on it 18 years ago. There were not any bolts on it in 1993... or 1994 or 1995 or 1996... I am not sure when they arrived.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : ... : Tiera Del Fuego (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Lower part is dirty, but gets better as you go. Top is tricky and fun.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : ... : Overheat (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Currently has a very large bees next near the top, just a meter from the bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: Phil,
I think 11 is right on, and there are some thin holds. If you did it on a hot day in full sun, then I imagine it was low percentage. There are also some side-to side movements in the route here and there.
Some routes just are not for some people because it specializes in a particular move (weakness), so don't fret it. A step up from Prince of Darkness, but in the same genre, is Le Boomerang. At a slightly lower level but slightly more 'exciting' is Mrs. Clean Gets Down. You have a shot... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves : Nanyang Wall : Indecision (variation) (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: 5.11a if completed through the 9 bolts to the top, and a far better route that way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Storming the Castle (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack."
For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too.

Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where i... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Haimovi Tower : Southeast Buttress (5.7) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: And I thought texting while driving was bad. Check out that texting while coiling accident!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Twin Flakes (5.10b) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: That's awful!
Looks like the area activists need to go investigate other anchors by " W. Peterson & L. Hadfield" placed around 1992.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 1, 2011

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Comments: Is that the East Slab of the Dome?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Higher Energy Crag
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: The crag is no longer closed. As of today:
-------------------------------------------
Tony,
High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are not located within a closed area. We have recently confirmed this definitively with a site visit, as the border of the closure is fairly close. But to reiterate, High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are open for climbing.

This information is open to all the public.

Thanks for your patience,

Susan Spaulding
Senior Wildlife Biologist
Boulder County Parks a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : High Energy Crag
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: The crag is no longer closed. As of today:
-------------------------------------------
Tony,
High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are not located within a closed area. We have recently confirmed this definitively with a site visit, as the border of the closure is fairly close. But to reiterate, High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are open for climbing.

This information is open to all the public.

Thanks for your patience,

Susan Spaulding
Senior Wildlife Biologist
Boulder County Parks a... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : Unknown 5.10 Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: Yes, one of the better if not best of the single pitches I've done this year.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Burger Madness (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: Hey Lamont,
I'm not of the opinion that anyone should have to agree with a rating, but if it helps to know, the normal approach is probably to do Satan's Slab and then rap off of that to this route, which is right by the base of the rap.
3/4 posters prior to you gave it 3 stars... and there are 2 cruxes in the 60' with no "gimmie" territory. Are you sure you did the right route?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: I can't say specfically whaich routes you refer to, but the descent down there goes back down the back side of what is known as "Ridge 2" in Skunk Canyon, and that is covered in the several Flatirons guides. I imagine a quick look there will help you ID what you were looking for. If on the other hand you are referring to just before hitting the creek and having already left the Ridge 2 rock, you'd be at the base of Ridge 1, near The Guardian, with Armed Forces way up above that. I don't recall... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Milk and Honey (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: No problem, Mark, actually it was fairly clear. I was referring to the corner and the rock next to it.... I pulled a few things loose from that seam, too. I probably got sucked into the corner too much and doing the route with the fewest possible stems into the corner is probably the right thing to do, but then it feels like and 'eliminate' type of route (i.e. the route PsychGillLogical) and doesn't feel like it flows well. But I've certainly climbed worse routes!
It also may improve with clea... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Strike It Rich (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Mark, that's a very proud flash. I think that the sustenance of this route may lead to an upgrade at some point.
The route may well have very good climbing, but it needs more traffic or cleaning to achieve its full potential. In its present state, it is a little dirty and still has some loose stuff - I broke a few footholds, perhaps owing in part to me wearing very stuff ending shoes up there. And to note for those curious about it, I'd consider that a mistake. The defining sections of this c... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Nice Chutin' (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: A little scaly between bolts 1 and 2, but I didn't think a cam was needed or would help much anyway. The route has lots of body tension and sidepulls and underclings. Do it fresh, not pumped, and it might seem easy at the grade. It might seem hard if fatigued, as many clips are off of underclings, sidepulls, and pinches. The clips will also be difficult if under 5'7" or so, my 5'4" female partner appreciated the pre-hung draws in preference to clipping from crux moves.


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Chute The Moon (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Bottom pitch shared with Chute Out is really crumbly at the bulge, but the upper pitch is solid past the ramp and defines the route. It can be done as a single pitch with some long runners. A 70m will allow the leader to lower just to the chains above P1, but JUST BARELY. Make sure #2 is tied in!


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Chute Out (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Bottom pitch shared with Chute the Moon is really crumbly at the bulge, but upper pitch is fun and defines the route.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : Telescoping Sum (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Aug 10, 2011

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Comments: Save a 1.5-2" cam (green Camalot) to protect the top move via the undercling, or maybe the yellow alien for the open spot in the main crack. You will want something in up there! The move onto the slab is not hard, but it is psychological!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : Stargazing (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 10, 2011

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Comments: I did a very heavy cleaning job on this one today, albeit bottom up. I pulled out the old dead roots and clumps of bushes and piles of pine needles. However, doing this bottom-up means that some of the stuff I dumped out of it was poured down onto lower holds. Nonetheless, it is far better than what it was. It's actually a good climb, but the next party up will have to dust it down again.


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