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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact Tony B


Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,783
Last Year: 470
Last 30 Days: 143
396 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14530 | Routes 1241 | Areas 121 | Photos 1381 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1650 | Posts 4514 | Stars 3547 | Ratings 2075
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: That happens from time to time - look in the photo taken only seconds before it here:
Joseffa Meir approaches the crux moves of the third pitch (10b) of 'The Naked Edge' in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/07.
Joseffa Meir approaches the crux moves of the third pitch (10b) of 'The Naked Edge' in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/07.


and you can see it is not hung up.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : "The Route on the Left" aka... (5.10b/c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Note:
www.mountainproject.com/v/free-booty/107507120


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks : deGaulle's Nose free route (5.11d)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: It's 5.10- climbing to a hard move or two on secure locks, but DO NOT try this one in the cold....


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Showcase (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: This is not even close to 5.11 unless your hands are like bear paws, and even then, I doubt it. I'm giving it 1 star to reflect the 1/4 pitch worth of 4-star climbing. It's just too short to call it much more.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Igor Unleashed (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Well, forget that flat chip for the left hand at the crux - I leaned back on it to shift a foot, and both it and I went airborne.... The hold is now uneven and very sharp and thin. Thin enough to sever the skin off of "pinged" fingers.
The move is a lot harder now. As my partner said it - this is an "evolutionary" route....
Get on it with thick, fresh tips.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Blackout (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: Still full of bird poo as of today.


Location: General Climbing : A Lee Smith Spin-off - Na... : Post : Photo
By: Tony B When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: Nope - P2 of The Naked Edge.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Sidewinder (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: I think the climb was named for the fact that you wind around time after time to get the other side in - the feet alternate from side A to side B several times. If you don't like offwidth, this is hell. If you like offwidth, this is 200'+ of fun!


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Steppenwolf (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: High-top shoes will save the ankles some wear and tear on this one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Dec 25, 2011

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Comments: "Beautiful route may try it in one long pitch like Chianti next time?? Anyone done this?"
Yes, that's usually how people do it. But if so, you have to be solid. With 40M of rope out, the crux has ledge-fall potential.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: I moved to Boulder in 1995 and did the route twice with no bolts on P1 before it was retro-bolted. I recorded notes (in autumn of 1996 according to my climbing journal) on the opening moves were on the offset nut placed to protect the moves, as there was no such bolt.
I had thought that the current bolts were ACE approved retros, but I must admit, I searched the archives for info and could not find it.
The best data I have indicates that the bolts were not there in 1996 when I climbed it with Ta... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: That's really odd. I won't say what rack you did or didn't climb the route on, and I won't say how hard it was for you... but I can tell you that you didn't clip a "first bolt" on it 18 years ago. There were not any bolts on it in 1993... or 1994 or 1995 or 1996... I am not sure when they arrived.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : ... : Tiera Del Fuego (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Lower part is dirty, but gets better as you go. Top is tricky and fun.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : ... : Overheat (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Currently has a very large bees next near the top, just a meter from the bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: Phil,
I think 11 is right on, and there are some thin holds. If you did it on a hot day in full sun, then I imagine it was low percentage. There are also some side-to side movements in the route here and there.
Some routes just are not for some people because it specializes in a particular move (weakness), so don't fret it. A step up from Prince of Darkness, but in the same genre, is Le Boomerang. At a slightly lower level but slightly more 'exciting' is Mrs. Clean Gets Down. You have a shot... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves : Nanyang Wall : Indecision (variation) (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: 5.11a if completed through the 9 bolts to the top, and a far better route that way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Storming the Castle (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack."
For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too.

Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where i... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Haimovi Tower : Southeast Buttress (5.7) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: And I thought texting while driving was bad. Check out that texting while coiling accident!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Twin Flakes (5.10b) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: That's awful!
Looks like the area activists need to go investigate other anchors by " W. Peterson & L. Hadfield" placed around 1992.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 1, 2011

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Comments: Is that the East Slab of the Dome?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Higher Energy Crag
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: The crag is no longer closed. As of today:
-------------------------------------------
Tony,
High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are not located within a closed area. We have recently confirmed this definitively with a site visit, as the border of the closure is fairly close. But to reiterate, High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are open for climbing.

This information is open to all the public.

Thanks for your patience,

Susan Spaulding
Senior Wildlife Biologist
Boulder County Parks a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : High Energy Crag
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: The crag is no longer closed. As of today:
-------------------------------------------
Tony,
High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are not located within a closed area. We have recently confirmed this definitively with a site visit, as the border of the closure is fairly close. But to reiterate, High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are open for climbing.

This information is open to all the public.

Thanks for your patience,

Susan Spaulding
Senior Wildlife Biologist
Boulder County Parks a... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : Unknown 5.10 Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: Yes, one of the better if not best of the single pitches I've done this year.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Burger Madness (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: Hey Lamont,
I'm not of the opinion that anyone should have to agree with a rating, but if it helps to know, the normal approach is probably to do Satan's Slab and then rap off of that to this route, which is right by the base of the rap.
3/4 posters prior to you gave it 3 stars... and there are 2 cruxes in the 60' with no "gimmie" territory. Are you sure you did the right route?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: I can't say specfically whaich routes you refer to, but the descent down there goes back down the back side of what is known as "Ridge 2" in Skunk Canyon, and that is covered in the several Flatirons guides. I imagine a quick look there will help you ID what you were looking for. If on the other hand you are referring to just before hitting the creek and having already left the Ridge 2 rock, you'd be at the base of Ridge 1, near The Guardian, with Armed Forces way up above that. I don't recall... more >>


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