Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Tony B


Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 23,466
Last Year: 990
Last 30 Days: 64
421 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tony B been climbing?










Contributions


All 14918 | Routes 1268 | Areas 123 | Photos 1448 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1700 | Posts 4581 | Stars 3639 | Ratings 2157
Page 7 of 68.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Beethoven's Fifth (5.12d PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped.


Location: Tony B : Non-action images from arou... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: That's not a tower... so no.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Acrophobia (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: If someone goes to do this thing - take a photographer with you. It would be a wild shoot.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Best of the routes on the wall. Don't let the grades or stories intimidate you. If you can climb 5.11, you can do this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Wing Ding (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: It's not a crime to replace a hanger and nut back onto an existing legal bolt....
Someone could just go ahead and do it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Badger Crack (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The start as described in the book is indeed harder than 5.9 and has a hungry ledge below. Don't mess it up.... Probably 10c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Shakedown Street (5.12c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Was told it was 5.11.
Very lousy warm-up!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Gluten Free (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout.
Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such.
To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Big Splash (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Dirty, discontinuous, and a few nice sections. But not enough to make a nice route of it.


Location: CO : Bent Gate is hiring in Gold...
By: Tony B When: Jul 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: "You know McDonald's pays $10 an hour after training. "

Sure, if that is where you want to work.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jul 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This entire thing is presently dripping and climbs about like polished ice covered in astroglide. It is nothing short of truly dangerous right now, and I expect it will take quite some time to dry out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Water World (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The pro on this is not textbook. Safe lead for people well into the grade, but it is not the sort of thing to be pushing oneself on.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The second anchor to the left in the above comments for the single rope raps does have chains now (as of 7/22/12), and each rap length is slight overstated. It is very comfortably made with a 70m though, no 35m raps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Sentinel Boulders : East Sentinel/North Face (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Jul 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The loose flake at the outside of it may go soon. Squeeze in there and avoid climbing on that!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Penis Chimney (5.9) : Photo (Copy)
By: Tony B When: Jul 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: It is from "pre-history" CB.com when there were not many photos available. Pick one you think is a good beta photo and write the area admin a note suggesting the swap/fix. Mike K won't be upset.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : SM's Delight (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Flying Circus (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: One of the best climbs in the Smoke Bluffs area. Not that polished - still good friction, and great fingerlocks and gear. A must-do.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Neat and Cool (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Good gear opportunity, but not always easy to see or place I suppose. Juggy big moves are fine with confidence, might lead to stirring anyone who is already shaken.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Quarryman (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The direct finish is also somewhat wet at the crux (which flares) if it has been raining and feels about right for 10b in that condition. But it protects well enough to be of small concern.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Yorkshire Gripper (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I thought that the sritching-cracks crux was the hardest by far, but still only 11- with long arms. The span was not difficult for me. A shorter climber might find it much harder. Up top was not so bad technically, but could be pretty mental on lead depending on where your gear is placed


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Atoll, The : Enola (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A yellow Alien or similar piece protects the opening moves in the absence of the chopped first bolt.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Atoll, The : Ol' St. Joe (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Not only the bolts would be hard to reach but also the holds. I climbed this with a 5'8" partner who suffered a lack of reach greatly at a few different places. I think at my height (5'10" with long arms) the route is middle 5.10, but if you are shorter, it is probably 10d or more.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Off The Cuff (5.6 X)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Indeed the flake on the left has been decapitated and is safe to climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : Uncle Nasty (AKA: Willy B. ... (5.10 PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The route info has been corrected to reflect the above comment and the verification by Bill Briggs of the precise date. Thanks for resurrecting the history gents!


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Bush League Buttress : User Friendly (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There is a discontinuous rack system that can be accessed to the right about 7 meters below the "roof" of P1. This is a little runout and a little harder, but it is an excellent variation to the climb. Maybe 5.10-, PG-13. The climbing gets easier as the runout grows. A few extra 1-2" cams might help if you do this variation.
The old bolts on the final pitch are less than perfect, but the crux is just above the second one, so it wouldn't need to hold too long of a fall. Footwork is key.
Cont... more >>


Page 7 of 68.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!