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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Tony B


Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,489
Last Year: 452
Last 30 Days: 2
384 Compliments
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All (14295) | Routes (1226) | Areas (120) | Photos (1363) | Comments (1622) | Posts (4428) | Stars (3495) | Ratings (2041)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Chute Out (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Bottom pitch shared with Chute the Moon is really crumbly at the bulge, but upper pitch is fun and defines the route.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : Telescoping Sum (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Aug 10, 2011

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Comments: Save a 1.5-2" cam (green Camalot) to protect the top move via the undercling, or maybe the yellow alien for the open spot in the main crack. You will want something in up there! The move onto the slab is not hard, but it is psychological!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : Stargazing (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 10, 2011

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Comments: I did a very heavy cleaning job on this one today, albeit bottom up. I pulled out the old dead roots and clumps of bushes and piles of pine needles. However, doing this bottom-up means that some of the stuff I dumped out of it was poured down onto lower holds. Nonetheless, it is far better than what it was. It's actually a good climb, but the next party up will have to dust it down again.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest
By: Tony B When: Aug 7, 2011

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Comments: Nice summer destination. Faces more northward than Witches tower and stays shady and cool until 3-4 PM or so, depending on the climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower
By: Tony B When: Aug 7, 2011

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Comments: Nice summer destination. Stays shady and cool until 1 PM or so.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado GFAC
By: Tony B When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: "If you are not part of the solution, you are part of the problem."
Trails need love too.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Kevlar Vest (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: I won't attempt to dispute if 'Kevlar Vest' was an FA or not, but it certainly had not been climbed much if it had been climbed prior at all. It certainly would be a stronger argument that it had been done before if a particular climber were to come forward with a date on which it was done, or a partner, or some details.
Regardless...
What is utterly clear and certain is that a FFA clean on gear, be it mine or something 'prior to 1990' predates the claimed FA of route #2 in those photos..... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado GFAC!
By: Tony B When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: See you there. Who else is in?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dum : Fumbledeedum (4th)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments: Mostly a hike- lots of dirt, a little rock. Great as a hike, so-so as a climb. Finnish via the summit of the back ridge of Dino Mt for a slightly longer day.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: Tony B When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: Why thank you Choncho, it's not everyday that I am flattered by such a literate and well formulated argument. Perhaps my comprehension is lacking... but I fail to see why my opinion is bullshit, or what it was that I was "trying"?
What is it that you are "trying" here?


Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Wind Machine (5.12a/b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: Glad to see you guys are still getting after it up there. It has been some of the best sport climbing I've ever done/seen. I'm pretty partial to multi-pitch, of course....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
By: Tony B When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: To the right of Last Laugh or to the right of Last Call? Do you mean this one ('Rush Hour'):
Shaun trying the same.
Shaun trying the same.
???
5.11+ if you are tall, harder if you are short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 23, 2011

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Comments: Purple = a shortcut to the middle of the final pitch of 'Shasta.'


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon
By: Tony B When: Jun 21, 2011

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Comments: Andrew,
I believe you may be speaking of this:
www.mountainproject.com/v/goat-fer/105764280


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado GFAC!
By: Tony B When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: That's again next Friday, June 24th.
I plan to be there. Any others?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : A Dream of Fat Antelope (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: The move off the ledge and up into the bulging OW can be protected by a cam pushed up overhead, but it is still difficult. It's more than just "heady."


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Take 5 (5.11a/b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: Wear your edging shoes and watch your fingers!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and...
By: Tony B When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: I think this area should be sub-divided per rock... Blair I, Blair II and Blair III. Does anyone with more area knowledge/experience have the motivation to do it?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: No real stopper moves, but the pump will wear you out and when the jamming gets thin, it's tough. DO it before you are too tired for the day. There are good placements and good stances adequately spaced to place from to make this a safe route to really push yourself on.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : My Clone Sleeps Alone (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: The book calls this a hand-crack. I might have had a jam or two a few times, but this thing had more 1.25-1.5" cam placements than 2+" cam placements. I had more finger-locks than hand-jams. It is also easier than a lot of area 9s, or for that matter, easier than the 5.8 "approach pitch."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Zig-zagging Jews (5.4)
By: Tony B When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: Not at dirty or broken as it looks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cartoon Crag
By: Tony B When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: Most of the routes at this crag are good solo routes, with the notable exception of Dewey (5.8) which is off balance at the crux on slightly less than positive holds. The rest seemed solid to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Angel of Death (formerl... : The Angel of Death (formerl... (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Wow, you guys play nicely together. Ice cream for both of you!
Seriously- I wouldn't have guessed that it was a free route before the bolts either, so I can see where the mistake got made. Nice that you are both taking it in stride.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Cinch Crack (5.12b)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: The webbing in the belay/rap station above this pitch is currently in pretty bad shape (5/29/11) and should be replaced/refreshed. If you head up there to do Cinch Crack, please take some extra.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Nobody's Home (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: The rap in the roof above this climb is presently solid, safe, and just tested by us using it.


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