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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 24, 2014
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,786
Last Year: 365
Last 30 Days: 73
397 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14551 | Routes 1241 | Areas 121 | Photos 1381 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1653 | Posts 4513 | Stars 3557 | Ratings 2084
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: Wow - presently the poopiest classic in Eldo. Still a must-do, but being the first on it this season wasn't the best call.
The bolt belay is on top of the pigeon flake, not below it (ref. a few comments prior).
Lastly, the climb goes with nothing bigger than a new-style #4 Camalot with no runouts at all. Sure, if you want overhead pro at the crux a #5 might help, but at my ankles was good enough and I didn't have to carry anything big.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: Tony B When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: "Hard to read finish".
Amen....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pilgrim (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: A climb with bolts where you need them, a few small steel or brass nuts from OK stances, and a few places where you just have to go for it. None of it was dangerous, but plenty of it was exciting. If it had been more closely protected, it would be less of a route. This one was done 'just right' for that kind of experience.
I thought the true crux was at the section between the first and second bolt (you can clip #2 before the move if you are mildly creative), but up top the moves are th... more >>


Location: Tony B : Tanzania, Kenya, China, Egy... : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: He was not interested in trading. There was a surpriseing amount of "give me..." there and when we would ask why we should just give someone something because they asked, we would occasionally be told one of two things:
1) Because you are rich
2) Because you are white.
In my experience, these two things were interchangeable in the collective view there. Not that there is not a kernel of truth to it...
But imagine how surprised people were when I would on occasion reply: 'But I do not have that ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Well,
I think Bruce kinda said it all with one post before this "debate" he lead the route on gear prior to the placement of the bolts. The route not only can be protected on gear, it was, by the FA party.
Bruce was clear with me that he didn't approve of the bolts and disclaimed them right here in writing.

So, why were people even having this discussion? When did bolting cracks after the FA (on gear) become OK?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : One and a Half Hours of Pow... (5.11- PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Try submitting a suggestion to ACE...
I think they have some work coming up anyway.
If you can't figure out how to contact them, then you can do it through the BCC here:
boulderclimbingcommunity.net/bolts/


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bummers Rock
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: It has not been re-bolted at this time. Please be patient and see what happens this summer (2012).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Sub Slab (5.10b/c R)
By: Tony B When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: My partner and I both agreed that this route should be PG/PG-13 and not R. The hard moves are protected well, and the runouts were moderate and not terribly long. We also felt it was 5.9/5.9+, but both have long arms. It may be harder for shorter climbers.
It is a good route and deserves to get done. Perhaps people doing the new route 'The Dispensary' will enjoy going on upward through this. The grade is no harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: The Joker and the Thief starts a few feet right of where it is indicated here then merges to this line. The fixed pin is "blind" until you reach it, and it is right by the 3rd to last "dot" on this map, to the right in a solid horizontal.

The route reaches that ledge (rope drag assured) and then goes left to belay before the top twin "cracks" (flares and flakes) pulling the roof to dirty slopers.

The crux is the lower section, not the upper. Green Camalots are very key protection on BOTH pit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Lily and the Jack of Hearts (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Cleaned up a little more last night. Just stay right once you pull the roof and avoid the crumble.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sugar Crack Buttress : Rubberneck Crack (5.10)
By: Tony B When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Don't go left to the corner at the bush. It is totally avoidable and the direct line is protectable - put a cam below the bush, step left to a jug right by its base, and get up to standing on that. Step back right to the right above it, place good gear in the "quartz dike" and pull that from its right side on great sidepulls, then finish. Going left is dirty and loose and the moves are not as good anyway.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Neighsayer (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: Look at who is responsible for the FAs of the routes there, and it might tell you.
Obviously, the submitter of the routes seems to know something too....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12-)
By: Tony B When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: We mistakenly got on this thinking it was the 11b/c.
I looked at the knee bar in thin tights and thought better of not doing it. I pinched low and slapped over the roof second try. I don't think this is harder than 11+/12-. I defer to the harder side of that in light of other opinions, but it is not terribly hard. I don't usually get mid-12s that easily when I'm going casual climbing after work. I think the pinch is just bad beta.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Penis Chimney (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: It is super clear to me from the dates posted the JP was talking about the pre-C4 sizes (since he posted prior to their advent and also spoke of a 4.5) and you are talking C4 sizes since you mention a 6, which did not used to exist....
So really, you are suggesting the same thing.
I've never really cared for how BD handled the taxinomy of the re-sizing thing - it always leads to some confusion.

"Up to a #4?... You mean Camalot or Friend?"
"Uhh... Camalot."
"OK, new or old sizing?"

I've g... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : The Triple Mantle (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: The fall before clipping that 5th bolt would be pretty nasty if you were doing it from the right and stemming in.


Location: Tony B : Springfield Gorge, OH : Photo
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: What is the problem? Socks with climbing shoes too much of a fashion statement for you guys?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Third Advisor : Supposed Former Grade Infla... (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Someone should go get on this thing and check it out - verify grade, etc....


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Well, you can click the "details" link and see a consensus voting, but some of those were right after it was entered, and some apparently follow Bernard's book rating. For my own part, it never occurred to me that I might fall off, which generally occurs to me in the 11 range. But bear in mind that long reaches to big holds through steep territory is my strength.... I figured it might be 11-.
I thought it easier than Hunting Party or Broken Arrow.
These are good routes, BTW - thanks for equipp... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Don't let the grade intimidate you. The bolts are at your hips, and it is nowhere near 5.12 if you find the right sequence. I came off it relaxed and thought it was 10+ (Eldo 10c) before reading this.
Long arm-span probably helped, and shorter people will suffer a harder crux.


Location: Tony B : Desert sandstone climbing. ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Indian Creek at Sunset might as well be on some days...


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Orangutang (V2-3)
By: Tony B When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: Orang Utan (Oragutan) is Bahasa Indonesia for "Man Forest" or 'Man of the Forest' which is the name they gave to the primates we still call that today.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: Great route with continuous climbing on P2 if you go right from the roof. Every other move is significant, every second stance is rest... it never goes away but never exhausts you. Exciting but not lethal. A great first "heads up" lead for a 5.10 climber.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Shady Deal (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: The number of extra bolts on the route is similar to the number of extra letter-grades it was given above its actual difficulty. But at least it is a fun patch of rock, even if a little short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Zee Eliminator (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Not a great route- a little crumbly- would improve with some more traffic/cleaning.
Best rack is med nuts- 3" cam with doubles from 1-2".


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Broken Arrow (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: Maybe it is a height thing - I thought the clips were OK but were meant to be clipped from a high stance rather than pulling a lot of rope up. Great climb that requires the leader to milk the good holds for rests and maintain good footwork. Bullet rock.
Just when you think it is over - there is a final surprise.
Too bad it isn't a longer climb and a nicer setting, or it would be 4-star. 3-star as it is.


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