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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 14579 | Routes 1241 | Areas 121 | Photos 1381 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1660 | Posts 4522 | Stars 3562 | Ratings 2090
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 667 (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Looks like you were just out to the climber's right of the 'normal' route for 666. In the top photos, I can see the huge chockstones that should be there, but you were less on the arete. As the climbing on each of the various sub-features of each ridge is generally the same as on the long south end of the features, these are considered variations. For an IE, refer to the Haas book for Enchanted Devil where it has a variation at the same grade for climbing the center of the face instead of the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 666 (5.6 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Not sure where the 5.6 on this would be. It was no harder than Enchanted Devil (5.4).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: In retrospect given all of these comments, it sounds like I forced my way too straight directly up on that last pitch, aiming for the short back corner above, and thus through terra incognita. No good. Glad to hear that there are several other/better options.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Continental Breakfast (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: Glad someone is out getting on these things- especially you Jay- great to see you made it back into the game!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dreadnaught : East Face/Dreadnaught (5.2)
By: Tony B When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: A really nice Flatiron scramble that is solid and pretty easy until the top.... The 'direct' to the top is probably 5.7 through the bulge, or so it felt in approach shoes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Saved by the Bell (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: After a few years of additional traffic, the bird doo and lichen is pretty much gone and the route is cleaner.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Beethoven's Fifth (5.12d PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped.


Location: Tony B : Non-action images from arou... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: That's not a tower... so no.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Acrophobia (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: If someone goes to do this thing - take a photographer with you. It would be a wild shoot.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Best of the routes on the wall. Don't let the grades or stories intimidate you. If you can climb 5.11, you can do this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Wing Ding (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: It's not a crime to replace a hanger and nut back onto an existing legal bolt...
Someone could just go ahead and do it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Badger Crack (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: The start as described in the book is indeed harder than 5.9 and has a hungry ledge below. Don't mess it up.... Probably 10c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Shakedown Street (5.12c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: Was told it was 5.11.
Very lousy warm-up!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Gluten Free (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout.
Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such.
To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Big Splash (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Dirty, discontinuous, and a few nice sections. But not enough to make a nice route of it.


Location: CO : Bent Gate is hiring in Gold...
By: Tony B When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: "You know McDonald's pays $10 an hour after training. "

Sure, if that is where you want to work.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: This entire thing is presently dripping and climbs about like polished ice covered in astroglide. It is nothing short of truly dangerous right now, and I expect it will take quite some time to dry out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Water World (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: The pro on this is not textbook. Safe lead for people well into the grade, but it is not the sort of thing to be pushing oneself on.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: The second anchor to the left in the above comments for the single rope raps does have chains now (as of 7/22/12), and each rap length is slight overstated. It is very comfortably made with a 70m though, no 35m raps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Sentinel Boulders : East Sentinel/North Face (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: The loose flake at the outside of it may go soon. Squeeze in there and avoid climbing on that!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Penis Chimney (5.9) : Photo (Copy)
By: Tony B When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: It is from "pre-history" CB.com when there were not many photos available. Pick one you think is a good beta photo and write the area admin a note suggesting the swap/fix. Mike K won't be upset.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : SM's Delight (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Flying Circus (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: One of the best climbs in the Smoke Bluffs area. Not that polished - still good friction, and great fingerlocks and gear. A must-do.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Neat and Cool (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Good gear opportunity, but not always easy to see or place I suppose. Juggy big moves are fine with confidence, might lead to stirring anyone who is already shaken.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Out to Lunge (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: This description matches what we believe is described in the guide, for the lower of the 2 left-leaning diagonals. The upper one is shown in the book, albeit perhaps erroneously.
In any case, that lower diagonal felt 5.8- even wet, if you jam it. Warning- even when the lip of the horizontal appears dry, the crack does hold water and stays slick and green. Big moves take you from jug to jug.


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