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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
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Areas = 15
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All 14478 | Routes 1238 | Areas 121 | Photos 1375 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1643 | Posts 4491 | Stars 3540 | Ratings 2069
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: The second anchor to the left in the above comments for the single rope raps does have chains now (as of 7/22/12), and each rap length is slight overstated. It is very comfortably made with a 70m though, no 35m raps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Sentinel Boulders : East Sentinel/North Face (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: The loose flake at the outside of it may go soon. Squeeze in there and avoid climbing on that!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Penis Chimney (5.9) : Photo (Copy)
By: Tony B When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: It is from "pre-history" CB.com when there were not many photos available. Pick one you think is a good beta photo and write the area admin a note suggesting the swap/fix. Mike K won't be upset.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : SM's Delight (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Flying Circus (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: One of the best climbs in the Smoke Bluffs area. Not that polished - still good friction, and great fingerlocks and gear. A must-do.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Neat and Cool (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Good gear opportunity, but not always easy to see or place I suppose. Juggy big moves are fine with confidence, might lead to stirring anyone who is already shaken.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Out to Lunge (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: This description matches what we believe is described in the guide, for the lower of the 2 left-leaning diagonals. The upper one is shown in the book, albeit perhaps erroneously.
In any case, that lower diagonal felt 5.8- even wet, if you jam it. Warning- even when the lip of the horizontal appears dry, the crack does hold water and stays slick and green. Big moves take you from jug to jug.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Quarryman (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: The direct finish is also somewhat wet at the crux (which flares) if it has been raining and feels about right for 10b in that condition. But it protects well enough to be of small concern.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Yorkshire Gripper (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: I thought that the sritching-cracks crux was the hardest by far, but still only 11- with long arms. The span was not difficult for me. A shorter climber might find it much harder. Up top was not so bad technically, but could be pretty mental on lead depending on where your gear is placed


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Atoll, The : Enola (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: A yellow Alien or similar piece protects the opening moves in the absence of the chopped first bolt.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Atoll, The : Ol' St. Joe (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: Not only the bolts would be hard to reach but also the holds. I climbed this with a 5'8" partner who suffered a lack of reach greatly at a few different places. I think at my height (5'10" with long arms) the route is middle 5.10, but if you are shorter, it is probably 10d or more.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Off The Cuff (5.6 X)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: Indeed the flake on the left has been decapitated and is safe to climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : Uncle Nasty (AKA: Willy B. ... (5.10 PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: The route info has been corrected to reflect the above comment and the verification by Bill Briggs of the precise date. Thanks for resurrecting the history gents!


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Bush League Buttress : User Friendly (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: There is a discontinuous rack system that can be accessed to the right about 7 meters below the "roof" of P1. This is a little runout and a little harder, but it is an excellent variation to the climb. Maybe 5.10-, PG-13. The climbing gets easier as the runout grows. A few extra 1-2" cams might help if you do this variation.
The old bolts on the final pitch are less than perfect, but the crux is just above the second one, so it wouldn't need to hold too long of a fall. Footwork is key.
Cont... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Bush League Buttress : Codependence Day (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: The whole crack system goes as a single pitch WITHOUT climbing the corner until the last 15 feet. This is done as a single 70 meter pitch to the top of the corner. 1 set small cams, 2 each cams from 1.5-3.5" plus a single set of nuts and lots of slings.
The climb IS runout in spots and there are some loose holds. This is not for the faint of heart.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: Wow - presently the poopiest classic in Eldo. Still a must-do, but being the first on it this season wasn't the best call.
The bolt belay is on top of the pigeon flake, not below it (ref. a few comments prior).
Lastly, the climb goes with nothing bigger than a new-style #4 Camalot with no runouts at all. Sure, if you want overhead pro at the crux a #5 might help, but at my ankles was good enough and I didn't have to carry anything big.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: Tony B When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: "Hard to read finish".
Amen....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pilgrim (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: A climb with bolts where you need them, a few small steel or brass nuts from OK stances, and a few places where you just have to go for it. None of it was dangerous, but plenty of it was exciting. If it had been more closely protected, it would be less of a route. This one was done 'just right' for that kind of experience.
I thought the true crux was at the section between the first and second bolt (you can clip #2 before the move if you are mildly creative), but up top the moves are th... more >>


Location: Tony B : Tanzania, Kenya, China, Egy... : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: He was not interested in trading. There was a surpriseing amount of "give me..." there and when we would ask why we should just give someone something because they asked, we would occasionally be told one of two things:
1) Because you are rich
2) Because you are white.
In my experience, these two things were interchangeable in the collective view there. Not that there is not a kernel of truth to it...
But imagine how surprised people were when I would on occasion reply: 'But I do not have that ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Well,
I think Bruce kinda said it all with one post before this "debate" he lead the route on gear prior to the placement of the bolts. The route not only can be protected on gear, it was, by the FA party.
Bruce was clear with me that he didn't approve of the bolts and disclaimed them right here in writing.

So, why were people even having this discussion? When did bolting cracks after the FA (on gear) become OK?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : One and a Half Hours of Pow... (5.11- PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Try submitting a suggestion to ACE...
I think they have some work coming up anyway.
If you can't figure out how to contact them, then you can do it through the BCC here:
boulderclimbingcommunity.net/bolts/


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bummers Rock
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: It has not been re-bolted at this time. Please be patient and see what happens this summer (2012).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Sub Slab (5.10b/c R)
By: Tony B When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: My partner and I both agreed that this route should be PG/PG-13 and not R. The hard moves are protected well, and the runouts were moderate and not terribly long. We also felt it was 5.9/5.9+, but both have long arms. It may be harder for shorter climbers.
It is a good route and deserves to get done. Perhaps people doing the new route 'The Dispensary' will enjoy going on upward through this. The grade is no harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: The Joker and the Thief starts a few feet right of where it is indicated here then merges to this line. The fixed pin is "blind" until you reach it, and it is right by the 3rd to last "dot" on this map, to the right in a solid horizontal.

The route reaches that ledge (rope drag assured) and then goes left to belay before the top twin "cracks" (flares and flakes) pulling the roof to dirty slopers.

The crux is the lower section, not the upper. Green Camalots are very key protection on BOTH pit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Lily and the Jack of Hearts (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Cleaned up a little more last night. Just stay right once you pull the roof and avoid the crumble.


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