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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
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Areas = 15
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All 14530 | Routes 1241 | Areas 121 | Photos 1381 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1650 | Posts 4514 | Stars 3547 | Ratings 2075
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Badger Crack (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: The start as described in the book is indeed harder than 5.9 and has a hungry ledge below. Don't mess it up.... Probably 10c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Shakedown Street (5.12c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: Was told it was 5.11.
Very lousy warm-up!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Gluten Free (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout.
Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such.
To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Big Splash (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Dirty, discontinuous, and a few nice sections. But not enough to make a nice route of it.


Location: CO : Bent Gate is hiring in Gold...
By: Tony B When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: "You know McDonald's pays $10 an hour after training. "

Sure, if that is where you want to work.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: This entire thing is presently dripping and climbs about like polished ice covered in astroglide. It is nothing short of truly dangerous right now, and I expect it will take quite some time to dry out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Water World (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: The pro on this is not textbook. Safe lead for people well into the grade, but it is not the sort of thing to be pushing oneself on.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: The second anchor to the left in the above comments for the single rope raps does have chains now (as of 7/22/12), and each rap length is slight overstated. It is very comfortably made with a 70m though, no 35m raps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Sentinel Boulders : East Sentinel/North Face (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: The loose flake at the outside of it may go soon. Squeeze in there and avoid climbing on that!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Penis Chimney (5.9) : Photo (Copy)
By: Tony B When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: It is from "pre-history" CB.com when there were not many photos available. Pick one you think is a good beta photo and write the area admin a note suggesting the swap/fix. Mike K won't be upset.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : SM's Delight (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Flying Circus (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: One of the best climbs in the Smoke Bluffs area. Not that polished - still good friction, and great fingerlocks and gear. A must-do.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Neat and Cool (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Good gear opportunity, but not always easy to see or place I suppose. Juggy big moves are fine with confidence, might lead to stirring anyone who is already shaken.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Out to Lunge (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: This description matches what we believe is described in the guide, for the lower of the 2 left-leaning diagonals. The upper one is shown in the book, albeit perhaps erroneously.
In any case, that lower diagonal felt 5.8- even wet, if you jam it. Warning- even when the lip of the horizontal appears dry, the crack does hold water and stays slick and green. Big moves take you from jug to jug.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Quarryman (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: The direct finish is also somewhat wet at the crux (which flares) if it has been raining and feels about right for 10b in that condition. But it protects well enough to be of small concern.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Yorkshire Gripper (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: I thought that the sritching-cracks crux was the hardest by far, but still only 11- with long arms. The span was not difficult for me. A shorter climber might find it much harder. Up top was not so bad technically, but could be pretty mental on lead depending on where your gear is placed


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Atoll, The : Enola (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: A yellow Alien or similar piece protects the opening moves in the absence of the chopped first bolt.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Atoll, The : Ol' St. Joe (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: Not only the bolts would be hard to reach but also the holds. I climbed this with a 5'8" partner who suffered a lack of reach greatly at a few different places. I think at my height (5'10" with long arms) the route is middle 5.10, but if you are shorter, it is probably 10d or more.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Off The Cuff (5.6 X)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: Indeed the flake on the left has been decapitated and is safe to climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : Uncle Nasty (AKA: Willy B. ... (5.10 PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: The route info has been corrected to reflect the above comment and the verification by Bill Briggs of the precise date. Thanks for resurrecting the history gents!


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Bush League Buttress : User Friendly (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: There is a discontinuous rack system that can be accessed to the right about 7 meters below the "roof" of P1. This is a little runout and a little harder, but it is an excellent variation to the climb. Maybe 5.10-, PG-13. The climbing gets easier as the runout grows. A few extra 1-2" cams might help if you do this variation.
The old bolts on the final pitch are less than perfect, but the crux is just above the second one, so it wouldn't need to hold too long of a fall. Footwork is key.
Cont... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Bush League Buttress : Codependence Day (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: The whole crack system goes as a single pitch WITHOUT climbing the corner until the last 15 feet. This is done as a single 70 meter pitch to the top of the corner. 1 set small cams, 2 each cams from 1.5-3.5" plus a single set of nuts and lots of slings.
The climb IS runout in spots and there are some loose holds. This is not for the faint of heart.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: Wow - presently the poopiest classic in Eldo. Still a must-do, but being the first on it this season wasn't the best call.
The bolt belay is on top of the pigeon flake, not below it (ref. a few comments prior).
Lastly, the climb goes with nothing bigger than a new-style #4 Camalot with no runouts at all. Sure, if you want overhead pro at the crux a #5 might help, but at my ankles was good enough and I didn't have to carry anything big.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: Tony B When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: "Hard to read finish".
Amen....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pilgrim (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: A climb with bolts where you need them, a few small steel or brass nuts from OK stances, and a few places where you just have to go for it. None of it was dangerous, but plenty of it was exciting. If it had been more closely protected, it would be less of a route. This one was done 'just right' for that kind of experience.
I thought the true crux was at the section between the first and second bolt (you can clip #2 before the move if you are mildly creative), but up top the moves are th... more >>


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