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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Tony B


Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,497
Last Year: 465
Last 30 Days: 14
384 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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All (14297) | Routes (1226) | Areas (120) | Photos (1363) | Comments (1622) | Posts (4430) | Stars (3495) | Ratings (2041)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: The Joker and the Thief starts a few feet right of where it is indicated here then merges to this line. The fixed pin is "blind" until you reach it, and it is right by the 3rd to last "dot" on this map, to the right in a solid horizontal.

The route reaches that ledge (rope drag assured) and then goes left to belay before the top twin "cracks" (flares and flakes) pulling the roof to dirty slopers.

The crux is the lower section, not the upper. Green Camalots are very key protection on BOTH pit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Spasmodic Rock : Lily and the Jack of Hearts (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Cleaned up a little more last night. Just stay right once you pull the roof and avoid the crumble.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sugar Crack Buttress : Rubberneck Crack (5.10)
By: Tony B When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Don't go left to the corner at the bush. It is totally avoidable and the direct line is protectable - put a cam below the bush, step left to a jug right by its base, and get up to standing on that. Step back right to the right above it, place good gear in the "quartz dike" and pull that from its right side on great sidepulls, then finish. Going left is dirty and loose and the moves are not as good anyway.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Neighsayer (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: Look at who is responsible for the FAs of the routes there, and it might tell you.
Obviously, the submitter of the routes seems to know something too....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12-)
By: Tony B When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: We mistakenly got on this thinking it was the 11b/c.
I looked at the knee bar in thin tights and thought better of not doing it. I pinched low and slapped over the roof second try. I don't think this is harder than 11+/12-. I defer to the harder side of that in light of other opinions, but it is not terribly hard. I don't usually get mid-12s that easily when I'm going casual climbing after work. I think the pinch is just bad beta.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Penis Chimney (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: It is super clear to me from the dates posted the JP was talking about the pre-C4 sizes (since he posted prior to their advent and also spoke of a 4.5) and you are talking C4 sizes since you mention a 6, which did not used to exist....
So really, you are suggesting the same thing.
I've never really cared for how BD handled the taxinomy of the re-sizing thing - it always leads to some confusion.

"Up to a #4?... You mean Camalot or Friend?"
"Uhh... Camalot."
"OK, new or old sizing?"

I've g... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : The Triple Mantle (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: The fall before clipping that 5th bolt would be pretty nasty if you were doing it from the right and stemming in.


Location: Tony B : Springfield Gorge, OH : Photo
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: What is the problem? Socks with climbing shoes too much of a fashion statement for you guys?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Third Advisor : Supposed Former Grade Infla... (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Someone should go get on this thing and check it out - verify grade, etc....


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Well, you can click the "details" link and see a consensus voting, but some of those were right after it was entered, and some apparently follow Bernard's book rating. For my own part, it never occurred to me that I might fall off, which generally occurs to me in the 11 range. But bear in mind that long reaches to big holds through steep territory is my strength.... I figured it might be 11-.
I thought it easier than Hunting Party or Broken Arrow.
These are good routes, BTW - thanks for equipp... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Don't let the grade intimidate you. The bolts are at your hips, and it is nowhere near 5.12 if you find the right sequence. I came off it relaxed and thought it was 10+ (Eldo 10c) before reading this.
Long arm-span probably helped, and shorter people will suffer a harder crux.


Location: Tony B : Desert sandstone climbing. ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Indian Creek at Sunset might as well be on some days...


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Chinese Algebra Area : ... : Orangutang (V2-3)
By: Tony B When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: Orang Utan (Oragutan) is Bahasa Indonesia for "Man Forest" or 'Man of the Forest' which is the name they gave to the primates we still call that today.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Mar 30, 2012

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Comments: Great route with continuous climbing on P2 if you go right from the roof. Every other move is significant, every second stance is rest... it never goes away but never exhausts you. Exciting but not lethal. A great first "heads up" lead for a 5.10 climber.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Shady Deal (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: The number of extra bolts on the route is similar to the number of extra letter-grades it was given above its actual difficulty. But at least it is a fun patch of rock, even if a little short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Zee Eliminator (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Not a great route- a little crumbly- would improve with some more traffic/cleaning.
Best rack is med nuts- 3" cam with doubles from 1-2".


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Broken Arrow (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: Maybe it is a height thing - I thought the clips were OK but were meant to be clipped from a high stance rather than pulling a lot of rope up. Great climb that requires the leader to milk the good holds for rests and maintain good footwork. Bullet rock.
Just when you think it is over - there is a final surprise.
Too bad it isn't a longer climb and a nicer setting, or it would be 4-star. 3-star as it is.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quivering Quill (5.10c) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: If the leader took a fall, that belayer would be in trouble....


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Spider Lady (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: +1 victim to the unexpected experience on the slab. I don't think it was 5.10, but when I reached the end of the traverse, I was happy I'd sunk a few pieces in before starting it, as I was looking at a hot and greasy last move in the sun... and a long and violent swing if I'd slipped.
The rest of the route is fun and varied - and the rock is mostly good.


Location: Tony B : Humor... or at least my sen... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: "You can't fix stupid."
You can't even stop it this way - but that ground at the bottom of the cliff...? THAT can stop stupid.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: That happens from time to time - look in the photo taken only seconds before it here:
Joseffa Meir approaches the crux moves of the third pitch (10b) of 'The Naked Edge' in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/07.
Joseffa Meir approaches the crux moves of the third pitch (10b) of 'The Naked Edge' in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/07.


and you can see it is not hung up.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : "The Route on the Left" aka... (5.10b/c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Note:
www.mountainproject.com/v/free-booty/107507120


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks : deGaulle's Nose free route (5.11d)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: It's 5.10- climbing to a hard move or two on secure locks, but DO NOT try this one in the cold....


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Showcase (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: This is not even close to 5.11 unless your hands are like bear paws, and even then, I doubt it. I'm giving it 1 star to reflect the 1/4 pitch worth of 4-star climbing. It's just too short to call it much more.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Igor Unleashed (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Well, forget that flat chip for the left hand at the crux - I leaned back on it to shift a foot, and both it and I went airborne.... The hold is now uneven and very sharp and thin. Thin enough to sever the skin off of "pinged" fingers.
The move is a lot harder now. As my partner said it - this is an "evolutionary" route....
Get on it with thick, fresh tips.


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