Comments: The system kicked me out in the middle of 'creating' this route. Here are the details:
Details: Follow the blunt South arete to the top of the cliff, staying within an arms reach of it. This route feels more "5th class" in some sections than others, and the subgrade I have given reflects the overall feel of it. There may be a slightly harder move here or there. The rock is cleaner, less broken, and is more exposed than the standard 'East Face South Side' 4th class slab.
Comments: As Per Leo's comment: to address that concern, just be sure to be and stay right (North) of the massive chockstones that jut out of the gully between the sections in question, producing large roofs. If you are to the right of those, you are in the right place.
Comments: FWIW, When Marc A. and I recently did 666 proper (tandem solo after Enchanted Devil on Thanksgiving), we couldn't figure out where the supposed 5.6 moves were either. I 'downgraded' that to 5.4, but it could have just as easily been 5.3. It was easier, in both of our eyes, than Enchanted Devil (5.4), but I didn't want to take a 6 all the way down to 3 considering I might not be terribly sensitive to grades in that range.
Comments: Looks like you were just out to the climber's right of the 'normal' route for 666. In the top photos, I can see the huge chockstones that should be there, but you were less on the arete. As the climbing on each of the various sub-features of each ridge is generally the same as on the long south end of the features, these are considered variations. For an IE, refer to the Haas book for Enchanted Devil where it has a variation at the same grade for climbing the center of the face instead of the... more >>
Comments: In retrospect given all of these comments, it sounds like I forced my way too straight directly up on that last pitch, aiming for the short back corner above, and thus through terra incognita. No good. Glad to hear that there are several other/better options.
Comments: If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped.
Comments: Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout. Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such. To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the... more >>
Comments: This entire thing is presently dripping and climbs about like polished ice covered in astroglide. It is nothing short of truly dangerous right now, and I expect it will take quite some time to dry out.
Comments: The second anchor to the left in the above comments for the single rope raps does have chains now (as of 7/22/12), and each rap length is slight overstated. It is very comfortably made with a 70m though, no 35m raps.