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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,856
Last Year: 412
Last 30 Days: 77
404 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14596 | Routes 1247 | Areas 121 | Photos 1383 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1660 | Posts 4523 | Stars 3569 | Ratings 2091
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Right Dihedral (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Old school 5.9. Protect the low crux out of the chimney by placing a hand-sized cam out to the right side in a crack 2 feet away from the corner. Route can be done with a single 60m rope to just arrive on the ledge, but a 70m is better to give you room to go set the belay more comfortably.
3" gear for the belay anchor up top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Moomin Papa's Little Advent... (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: So short as to almost be a boulder, but for the bad landing. No less, bad enough holds to pack a punch even at 25' tall.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11 PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Lots of comments here regarding my given protection rating for this route. An astute reader should note that I said I did it without a large cam (no #5) and that the R/X was for such, but that large cams would fix the problem. In case that was less than clear here we go again:

Protected without a #5 or larger:
R for the runout, X for the ledge below it.
With large cams: PG-13 for occasional forays above gear, decisions on when to leave the piece, and occasional soft ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Greg,
Yeah, sounds like I misunderstood your intent there... prompted by the wonder at why you didn't just ask me. I'll admit to being very, very under-slept that day and a bit sick, so I was grumpy. Sorry if it made you the target of an unnecessary rant.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Quoth Greg Hand:
"Does this mean Tony removed the bolts, or did he arrive and seeing no bolts, led it on gear? Richard, I can help you put the route back so that Gillett's guide does not mislead anyone."

Greg,

Why on earth would anyone such as yourself address anybody other than me with that first question??? So obviously asking someone other than me to speculate about what I did or did not do is silliness. I only came back to this thread after someone told me it was here and suggested that ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: All the bolts except #1 are gone, including the anchors. Lead it trad at 5.9, R or X depending on how you feel about the gear you run out the crux on holding; I thought it might. But then again there is that ledge....
Anyway, it goes trad.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : P. Mosh Wall
By: Tony B When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I was wondering - thanks for the detail. Best we had come up with was Pit Mosh.
The climbs here are nice little slabs - better than they looked at first. Good find. Also a little more challenging than I expected at the grade, but that's not a bad thing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Macbeth
By: Tony B When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: If from the North end, there is a little more climbing, but the extra length is not stellar. The better half is the top anyway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Saddle Rock : North Ridge / Saddle Rock
By: Tony B When: Apr 4, 2013

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Comments: Not very nice when it has been wet lately....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldo Wind Tower Trail Maint...
By: Tony B When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Bump - RSVP is actually to me (use the link to my name here) and is important so we can plan for food. Work will probably end a little after 1PM, and the BCC will serve a complimentary lunch for the volunteers. Thanks for your help!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: That buttress would be the Bastille.


Location: Tony B : So Now What? : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Healthy, happy baby girl... and lucky for us, an easy-going kid.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : The G.Y. Dihedral (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: This thing is such a prominent feature, yet it gets almost no traffic. I cleaned the lichen off of it years ago... and to a small degree, again today. Perhaps since it is not for the squeamish if you are only leading 5.8. You could take a big fall from the crux if your small/marginal gear there failed.
There are good holds on the arete to the left of the bush, so go left there and back.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Apostle
By: Tony B When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: While I may agree with the the OP, above, that there are Flatirons with better climbing in the area, or perhaps just more variety, I disagree with the apparent idea that this one is less worthy of a visit. A recent trip there netted 5 distinct lines we climbed, and, remarkably, the two best of these were not documented. Furthermore, the 3rd best was listed as a variation to the main route.
Perhaps the less-than-great review given above was due to the best climbing not being well covered by the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly Direct (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: Climbing this directly up the arete to the edge and staying on that arete is harder, has less gear and is a little heads-up for gear but offers some variety. You end up above the 2nd bolted belay a way and have to build an anchor of small cams and small/med nuts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : West Door (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: 5.8 if you are 5'10". I can see where taller could be easier, as you could skip the smaller sidepull.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Jaws : East Face Left (5.3 X)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: This is one of the more lichenous climbs around, and that is a detractor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Jaws : North Ridge (5.0)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: A nice route that is far longer than one would suspect. There are cruxes much harder than 5.0 if you don't climb way down and left at the breaks in the ridge. I did some 5.6 or harder going between the various rocks, but some of this could have been avoided by climbing down and back up a ways.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatironette : Southeast Ridge (4th)
By: Tony B When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: A lot dirty for a few body lengths, a little dirty for several more, the solid, clean rock the rest of the way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Harmon Flatironette : South Arete (5.3)
By: Tony B When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: The system kicked me out in the middle of 'creating' this route. Here are the details:

Details:
Follow the blunt South arete to the top of the cliff, staying within an arms reach of it. This route feels more "5th class" in some sections than others, and the subgrade I have given reflects the overall feel of it. There may be a slightly harder move here or there. The rock is cleaner, less broken, and is more exposed than the standard 'East Face South Side' 4th class slab.

Directions:
This ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Enchanted Devil (5.3 R)
By: Tony B When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: As Per Leo's comment: to address that concern, just be sure to be and stay right (North) of the massive chockstones that jut out of the gully between the sections in question, producing large roofs. If you are to the right of those, you are in the right place.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Nebel Via (5.0)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: A so-so scramble/hike, but a heck of a beautiful summit!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The North Ridge (of Dinosau... : Blank Sheets (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: The Namesake
:


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The North Ridge (of Dinosau... : Idly I De-Ice (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: The Nameske



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 667 (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: FWIW, When Marc A. and I recently did 666 proper (tandem solo after Enchanted Devil on Thanksgiving), we couldn't figure out where the supposed 5.6 moves were either. I 'downgraded' that to 5.4, but it could have just as easily been 5.3. It was easier, in both of our eyes, than Enchanted Devil (5.4), but I didn't want to take a 6 all the way down to 3 considering I might not be terribly sensitive to grades in that range.


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