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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,715
Last Year: 470
Last 30 Days: 76
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14476 | Routes 1238 | Areas 121 | Photos 1375 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1642 | Posts 4490 | Stars 3540 | Ratings 2069
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Harmon Flatironette : South Arete (5.3)
By: Tony B When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: The system kicked me out in the middle of 'creating' this route. Here are the details:

Details:
Follow the blunt South arete to the top of the cliff, staying within an arms reach of it. This route feels more "5th class" in some sections than others, and the subgrade I have given reflects the overall feel of it. There may be a slightly harder move here or there. The rock is cleaner, less broken, and is more exposed than the standard 'East Face South Side' 4th class slab.

Directions:
This ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Enchanted Devil (5.3 R)
By: Tony B When: Dec 4, 2012

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Comments: As Per Leo's comment: to address that concern, just be sure to be and stay right (North) of the massive chockstones that jut out of the gully between the sections in question, producing large roofs. If you are to the right of those, you are in the right place.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Nebel Via (5.0)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: A so-so scramble/hike, but a heck of a beautiful summit!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The North Ridge (of Dinosau... : Blank Sheets (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: The Namesake
:


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The North Ridge (of Dinosau... : Idly I De-Ice (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: The Nameske



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 667 (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: FWIW, When Marc A. and I recently did 666 proper (tandem solo after Enchanted Devil on Thanksgiving), we couldn't figure out where the supposed 5.6 moves were either. I 'downgraded' that to 5.4, but it could have just as easily been 5.3. It was easier, in both of our eyes, than Enchanted Devil (5.4), but I didn't want to take a 6 all the way down to 3 considering I might not be terribly sensitive to grades in that range.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 667 (5.5 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Looks like you were just out to the climber's right of the 'normal' route for 666. In the top photos, I can see the huge chockstones that should be there, but you were less on the arete. As the climbing on each of the various sub-features of each ridge is generally the same as on the long south end of the features, these are considered variations. For an IE, refer to the Haas book for Enchanted Devil where it has a variation at the same grade for climbing the center of the face instead of the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : 666 (5.6 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Not sure where the 5.6 on this would be. It was no harder than Enchanted Devil (5.4).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: In retrospect given all of these comments, it sounds like I forced my way too straight directly up on that last pitch, aiming for the short back corner above, and thus through terra incognita. No good. Glad to hear that there are several other/better options.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Continental Breakfast (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: Glad someone is out getting on these things- especially you Jay- great to see you made it back into the game!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dreadnaught : East Face/Dreadnaught (5.2)
By: Tony B When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: A really nice Flatiron scramble that is solid and pretty easy until the top.... The 'direct' to the top is probably 5.7 through the bulge, or so it felt in approach shoes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Saved by the Bell (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: After a few years of additional traffic, the bird doo and lichen is pretty much gone and the route is cleaner.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Beethoven's Fifth (5.12d PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped.


Location: Tony B : Non-action images from arou... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: That's not a tower... so no.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Acrophobia (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: If someone goes to do this thing - take a photographer with you. It would be a wild shoot.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Best of the routes on the wall. Don't let the grades or stories intimidate you. If you can climb 5.11, you can do this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Wing Ding (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: It's not a crime to replace a hanger and nut back onto an existing legal bolt...
Someone could just go ahead and do it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Badger Crack (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: The start as described in the book is indeed harder than 5.9 and has a hungry ledge below. Don't mess it up.... Probably 10c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Shakedown Street (5.12c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: Was told it was 5.11.
Very lousy warm-up!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Gluten Free (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout.
Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such.
To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Big Splash (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Dirty, discontinuous, and a few nice sections. But not enough to make a nice route of it.


Location: CO : Bent Gate is hiring in Gold...
By: Tony B When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: "You know McDonald's pays $10 an hour after training. "

Sure, if that is where you want to work.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: This entire thing is presently dripping and climbs about like polished ice covered in astroglide. It is nothing short of truly dangerous right now, and I expect it will take quite some time to dry out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Water World (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: The pro on this is not textbook. Safe lead for people well into the grade, but it is not the sort of thing to be pushing oneself on.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: The second anchor to the left in the above comments for the single rope raps does have chains now (as of 7/22/12), and each rap length is slight overstated. It is very comfortably made with a 70m though, no 35m raps.


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