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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,786
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14551 | Routes 1241 | Areas 121 | Photos 1381 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1653 | Posts 4513 | Stars 3557 | Ratings 2084
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Fast Boat to China (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Awkward at the base and harder than 5.8 at the thin fingers section. Good though.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Upper Capitalist Crag : Hours For Dollars (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Watch out for that ledge on the lower part of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Vitamin-N (5.8+)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Right after bolt #2, left after bolt #3, otherwise it feels harder.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : I Spy (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: The bottom 5 meters are a somewhat dirty solo. The rest of the climb is clean, solid and fun!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : Southern Cross (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: I and my partner both thought it odd that this got 1* and Crooked got 3* in the Gillett book. They are not so different in quality. The rock and moves on the top part of this are just as good.
For the best experience, do this one early in the AM (shade), and do it as a single pitch to the top in 50m.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : Fogline (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: It has cleaned up well. It is now a great route with the best and crux up top if you stay on the left of the arete where the bolts are. You can cheat right, but then I'm not sure it is 5.10.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Middle Small Wall : The Quest (5.10+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: 4 pitches for a 200' route?!?!?
I didn't have any drag problems the way I protected it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Piton Spire : Piton D'Or (The Golden Pito... (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Protection - 1 set nuts, 1 set cams from tiny to #3 Camalot, with a few extras in the #0.75-2 Camalot range - the pitches are long, after all. Also a #4 Camalot is useful once or twice on the route, particularly at the short crux of P3, but in that case, the 'old' #4 is better than the C4 #4.

Pitch lengths:

P1. (5.9 crux to start) 55m.
Move the belay up and right.
P2. (moderate, to below wide crack headwall) 58m.
P3. Wide crack headwall - 55m to near summit towe... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Make the Cut (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: P.S. This has also been linked through the upper section on TR. Above the initial crack, undercling the overlap and jam a flaring pod at the end of your reach, then get funky (as in 5.11+/12-) to sag onto that and reach much higher to a second flaring jam and pull into a second crack, a few meters above the overlap. Ride this crack until it ends... above gear at a very very thin 5.11 mantle onto a moderate slab to the top. A fall could be pretty ugly and out of control, backwards and up-side ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Eclipse (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Thin hands at base - crux is getting off the ground at 5.9-.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : The Arch of Titus (5.7+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: This still could use some cleaning - the finger cracks up high are excellent, but it needs to be a little more dug out. If/when that happens, this will be a climb with multiple options for line and difficulty, but it's going to take some work.

A 70m rope gets one to a nice ledge 10' of the starting ledge and 10' with a nice 20 second walk-off to the packs.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Hahahahhhh hah hah:
"6 people rated this photo 'Great'"
And who woulda thought that this picture would have solicited the comment "great legs"?
OK, 7 people now, Thanks Russ.
She does have nice legs, but I've seen them in better shape than that day...


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
By: Tony B When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Considering that so many people go here, I am surprised at the lack of attention/traffic at The Pantheon, the obvious 200' tall chunk of NW facing rock just uphill. Went there Sunday and had it to ourselves, linking pitches to do all the routes as single pitch trad and mixed lines. The place will clean up (lichen on a few lines) a little more with some traffic, but it is already good/worth doing. I'll put it on line over the next day or two.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Gladiator (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: I thought P2 was solid enough - there are holds/gear to the right and left of the main crack if you look. P3 looked worse than it did a few years ago, and we decided not to go for it today. Will be back in long pants/sleeves/tape-gloves/dust mask/jumpsuit in the fall. Last thing I need is to push that yuck into open wounds (still have some from Unaweep last weekend). Looks pretty fantastic otherwise.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Chalcopyrite Wall
By: Tony B When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: No matter what route you do at this wall, the approach is the crux. Wear canvas.

Stef thrashes her way up to Chalcopyrite Wall.  Wear canvas or leather!
Stef thrashes her way up to Chalcopyrite Wall. Wear canvas or leather!



Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Never Ending Story (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: I thought for racking and other purposes the route was better done as P1 as stated, P2 as a 100'-110' pitch to a ledge, then P3 out left and then up through the last part of P2 and onward - more direct, less wide stuff needed, and better "flow" to the route.

In fact, I note that where we stopped on P2 there was a big blue runner back in the crack that implied what was once a fixed belay.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : South Ridge : Megasaurus (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: As you can see in the photo - a Camalot (#2 or maybe #1) can be used to protect the climbing up to the first bolt. Use a 2' sling.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Right Dihedral (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Old school 5.9. Protect the low crux out of the chimney by placing a hand-sized cam out to the right side in a crack 2 feet away from the corner. Route can be done with a single 60m rope to just arrive on the ledge, but a 70m is better to give you room to go set the belay more comfortably.
3" gear for the belay anchor up top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Moomin Papa's Little Advent... (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: So short as to almost be a boulder, but for the bad landing. No less, bad enough holds to pack a punch even at 25' tall.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11 PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Lots of comments here regarding my given protection rating for this route. An astute reader should note that I said I did it without a large cam (no #5) and that the R/X was for such, but that large cams would fix the problem. In case that was less than clear here we go again:

Protected without a #5 or larger:
R for the runout, X for the ledge below it.
With large cams: PG-13 for occasional forays above gear, decisions on when to leave the piece, and occasional soft ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Greg,
Yeah, sounds like I misunderstood your intent there... prompted by the wonder at why you didn't just ask me. I'll admit to being very, very under-slept that day and a bit sick, so I was grumpy. Sorry if it made you the target of an unnecessary rant.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Quoth Greg Hand:
"Does this mean Tony removed the bolts, or did he arrive and seeing no bolts, led it on gear? Richard, I can help you put the route back so that Gillett's guide does not mislead anyone."

Greg,

Why on earth would anyone such as yourself address anybody other than me with that first question??? So obviously asking someone other than me to speculate about what I did or did not do is silliness. I only came back to this thread after someone told me it was here and suggested that ... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Slab : Git 'em Up Scout (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: All the bolts except #1 are gone, including the anchors. Lead it trad at 5.9, R or X depending on how you feel about the gear you run out the crux on holding; I thought it might. But then again there is that ledge....
Anyway, it goes trad.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : P. Mosh Wall
By: Tony B When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I was wondering - thanks for the detail. Best we had come up with was Pit Mosh.
The climbs here are nice little slabs - better than they looked at first. Good find. Also a little more challenging than I expected at the grade, but that's not a bad thing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Macbeth
By: Tony B When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: If from the North end, there is a little more climbing, but the extra length is not stellar. The better half is the top anyway.


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