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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 23,246
Last Year: 798
Last 30 Days: 106
411 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14778 | Routes 1255 | Areas 122 | Photos 1437 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1675 | Posts 4563 | Stars 3603 | Ratings 2121
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Saddle Rock : West Dihedral / Saddle Rock
By: Tony B When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: This AM, Wade M. soloed and cleaned a right-hand finish at the top of this climb that goes out right from the corner above the 5.2 Var. onto a sloping ledge and up a crack and flake. The holds are mostly very positive,and the rock seems pretty solid. Some gear would be possible on lead. Maybe 5.7?


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Can be done in 3 pitches instead of 5. Nice to keep ahead of a log-jam at belays or to get up there before the heat/cold/storm/dark sets in:
P1 - combine P1/P2 with a 60M rope and 30' of 5.2 simulclimbing or use a 70M rope.
P2 - Do P3 but continue to just below the roof on P4, or with a 70M continue past that roof and belay
P3 - Head for the top of the tower.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Broken Tree (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Expected a crux and less gear up high. Got no crux, but got great gear. Nice route regardless of the grade.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Some of the best rock and moves at the tower. That's a real compliment.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ Obviously doesn't use the internet much, or forgot to turn off the parental controls in his browser. (giggle)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : The Solar Wall : The Solar Panel (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: This is near to or perhaps the same and Dave Stewart and Mike Bannister's FA in 2006 (not posted, but I was beside them on the wall that day).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : Beau! (5.7+)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Good, but don't fall. The gear is actually sparse, and the small stuff is only as solid as the rock it is in... which is questionable for small gear. That rock flexes a bit and can crumble at the surface letting go of small gear.
A solid head is your best pro.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fi : Extraterrestrial (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: This climb can be done as a single pitch on 70m rope from a ledge 15' up. It's a ledge just big enough to sit or comfortably stand and is just down and climber's left of the small pine tree. The route felt maybe 5.3 to the summit and ridge done more or less directly up from the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fi : Hi Fi (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Done up and then left, the route is a little harder and gear is a concern, and it' is probably 45' onto the E Face. Safer is to do it to the right, coming onto the E. Face close to the top of the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Finger Flatiron : Polydoigt (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: I think I broke off a key foothold, if this thing was a bodylength left of the dihedral of Thicker. It's thin now too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: As per the above: to rap to the ground from there, yes, you need a 70m.
However, you can rap the route with a 50m if you go to the station to climber's left on top of the March Of Dimes pillar as described in the topos and this route description.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park
By: Tony B When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: There is nice camping in the park, or there was last I knew anyway. It has been a while, but $14/night wasn't bad for a picnic table, trash services, fire ring, and toilets... it might be more now - probably.

There is camping outside of town on public land. I took this photo (below) from a little road we camped off of the first time I was there climbing at Chuckawalla, on the way to Vegas.

I'd say call the climbing shop, or stop buy there to buy a few bars and ask.

The Town of Saint George & some of it's surroundin...
The Town of Saint George & some of it's surrounding crags, as seen from a mesa above, where there was once free camping... Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/03.



Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Navajo Peak : North Face of Dicker's Peck (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Well, that makes some sense, as we did it in 7/2003, and we talked about it. But sure, it may have done prior to then, I was surprised it was not published, nor seemingly traveled.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Muscle and Hate (5.10d PG13)
By: Tony B When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ Q: "What am I missing?"
A: Both an identity and the route, apparently.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: I think Travis may have been teasing - after all, the one nearest and right of center looks more "Eager" than "Nervous."


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Photo
By: Tony B When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Heh - well, you missed some history on the photo and why it was posted, but yeah... not a surprise.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Yellow Brick Road (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Honestly, a verbal answer to that is a little hard to give and be certain it has been correctly related in detail, but the topos in the Haas and Rositer guides are fairly clear, as memory serves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Tony B When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Ha. Well, in turn, I never never rated this route 12a until Mark Rolofson posted it on this website. I put on the website as "12-", as in: "the easier side of 12", but not necessarily 12a. I am not generally a 12+ leader, so I figured it to the bottom side of 12s.
Hopefully you didn't take offense to me having an opinion, regardless.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Bushwack Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: YMMV - sometimes I forget to account, in descriptions, for my very thin fingers.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: I've done the route, and I might have asked a similar question. I never clipped a tag line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Day 444 (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: My partner pulled one of the multiple flakes off that I had avoided. I think the flood or the freeze-thaws got to this route pretty bad.


Location: CO : An Evening with Jeff Lowe &...
By: Tony B When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Tickets for this on sale yet?
Where is the online auction site?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tigger Plus (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Actually, you stay left the entire time, only merging with Tiger for 20-30 feet and that is called "Tigger Overhang" in the Levin book. 5.8 ** (on a 3* scale in that book), and I more or less agree.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Flight 67 to Stockholm (5.11a/b)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: It was polished and devious a few years ago - it can not have gotten much better. Save it for a cool, crisp day.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Fast Boat to China (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Awkward at the base and harder than 5.8 at the thin fingers section. Good though.


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