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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 23,495
Last Year: 1,006
Last 30 Days: 48
424 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 14951 | Routes 1270 | Areas 123 | Photos 1448 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1704 | Posts 4592 | Stars 3647 | Ratings 2165
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Android Tilt (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: This climb has cleaned up quite a bit in the last decade. It is still a little thin in places unless you take very small cams (i.e. black Alien/red Camalot Jr.).
I'd give it 1-2*s on lead, 3*s to follow. We did it today in front of a bit of a crowd and seemed to generate a lot of interest in it, and that is a good thing. This climb deserves more traffic than it gets.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: I'll be darned - I was looking at the upper right rocks atthe base, but sure enough, the ones on the left are clear and the ones on the right were a matter of viewing angle. Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : S&M (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Dec 20, 2014

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Comments: Add a star by starting on As We Liked It.
Add an R and climb better rock, but add an R rating by climbing the face to the left instead of the dirty corner.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Straw Turkey (5.10a) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Shhhh.. you'll distract him.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: If anyone finds the protection (or prospects thereof) to be sparse, a solid #3 Camalot goes in 1/2 way up to the 1st bolt, a green or yellow Alien 1/2 way to the pins after the 2nd bolt. The route is thus G-rated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Super Woo (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Back again today to find the proper start - bad rock and poor protection are there behind the tree where that route is supposed to start. It is better a bit off to the right in full sunshine anyway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Last Flatironette : East Face (5.0)
By: Tony B When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: This route starts like the picture would imply, but once past the trees is a great route on great rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Super Woo (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: By climbing slightly off of the exact line (?), one can bring down the grade quite a bit. That whole wall in general feels most 5.8-5.9 on good holds and presents a myriad of climbing opportunities.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Canyon Doors aka Variation ... (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Nov 28, 2014

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Comments: Can't say as if I have any info on that first pitch as you describe it, but the first time I went up to do MM my partner didn't like the ledge fall and bailed out to the right. So I can tell you that was done a decade ago. I went up it a second time to do the mantle proper and Partick F. followed me that time. So P2 has history despite not being the proper route. I'll have to see if P1 is one of the things Jason and I did when we went up there to "do the rest" in 2012. That's when we did th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Tomato Rock : Darth Mater (V2)
By: Tony B When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: 5.9-ish (V0-) without the sit start.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: This is a good photo and seems to be correct.
The Haas guidebook suggests the left finish for the route East Side and fails to mention this one as being the primary target or line for the route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Junior Achievement (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: You can lead the entire thing from the ledge 30' up just before the #4 Camalot placement all the way to the E-facing summit anchor bolts with a 70m rope via the direct second pitch...which BTW is the steepest 5.8+ I can ever recall doing and deserves more stars and attention than it seems to get, but I'd hate to see a budding 5.8 leader (get hurt) on this one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Southwest Face (5.4)
By: Tony B When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: You can stay on the lower ramp all the way to the W. Summit, but it is 5.6X - more reminiscent of an Ironing Boards route than others on The Seal in general.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Saddle Rock : N.E. Face / Saddle Rock (5.2)
By: Tony B When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: To find the start as Roach describes it, go around the NE arete and to the East side - you will go uphill maybe 20 yards and look up and on the East Face. You will see "JERS*" in 18" white letters up on a shelf. You "scramble" up 45 deg dirt and shrubs to a shelf, then further up a 30 deg incline rock surface, headed primarily westward onto the slab that faces N/NW and across to the high point at its base.
From there, you change shoes and start anything I'd call climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Nah, it is the right climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Crescent (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: A 70m rope still requires some simul-climbing to get to a solid and comfortable belay on a combination of 1ea #4 and old #4 Camalots. An 80m rope would reach better.
A second pitch get you completely off anything past 3rd class, and from there you can either set an anchor (large stoppers or 2nd knuckle-cams) to rap off East/Northeast (then scramble down to packs for another route) or find or improvise a rap off to the West and walk back around (15-20 min).
As for rack, I took @POUND... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: Cool, thanks for pointing that out, Steve!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Rap of N Face with a single 80M is good. I just did it Raps are 38M (A 70M WILL NOT REACH), 31M, and then 35M.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Steel Your Face (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: The moves just below the first both could really hurt you if you are not solid at the 5.10 sandy slab grade...
And I think persistent traffic on this climb has made it harder.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Eat the Rich (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Some rounded flaring edges make this one a little insecure and you tend to overgrip. As such, it is a little pumpy to be a great warm up.
2*'s is what I'd give it. It would be more if it were taller than 40'.

Also - use a rope bag/mat. The prickers at the bottom (goat head burrs and grasses) are absolutely terrible!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: ^^^
WHAT?!?!?!?

Brandon, can you PM me to discuss details?
I'll be having lunch with some of our state reps soon, and 'criminal justice issues' are what is on the table. I'd like to talk with them about this and preventing this bullshit in the future, but I need something substantial to go on.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Shark's Fin : North Side (5.3)
By: Tony B When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: By "spiral left" I believe that the writer means to say back around to the West and then South sides.... Otherwise the climbing is significantly harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Smooth (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This is the best and most solid of all the E Face Routes on the Ironing Boards.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Smoother (5.7 X)
By: Tony B When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Pretty good, but Smooth is a better route overall and more solid. It also protects, which is neither a + or - but of interest to some.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Sphinx : Lower East Face, Sphinx (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Directly up from the tree was 5.8 with some questionable rock, very little protection (a #3 Camalot would have perhaps protected the exit moves), and is quite steep. If you fall, you will need med-evaced or a body recovery.


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