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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 23,667
Last Year: 922
Last 30 Days: 172
445 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 15320 | Routes 1280 | Areas 124 | Photos 1451 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1748 | Posts 4776 | Stars 3713 | Ratings 2226
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Comment : Photo
By: Tony B When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: Did you guys manage that or is the USFS actually pitching in out there?
Either way - nice work.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: Come back in Feb/March and you'll see...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide : Bloody Monday (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: 2 days ago

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Comments: If you go to do this route, take a pair of pruners/shears. Some very limited and selective pruning of a pine branch would do nothing to hurt the tree but would greatly improve the situation for the climber on this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide
By: Tony B When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The webbing on the tree atop this crag is getting pretty bleached and chewed up. It should use to be cut away and replaced. If you head up here, take fresh webbing or cord.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Motorcycle Diaries (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Instead of going hard to the right at the end, you can keep going directly up to the first large ledge @ 5.8 PG-13 (43 meters). There is a belay tree up there and to the right once on the ledge. No fixed belay on it though, but you can scramble down and climber's right to a rap.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Road Kill (5.12)
By: Tony B When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The book screws up pretty much every route on this rock. 11+ or 12' sounds about right. Book says 10b. This sucks as a warm-up though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Road Rash (or Tweaked?) (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The book misdirects all 3 of the climbs on the right side of the rock here...but yeah, the right-most bolted line is a moderate 5.10.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Snowshed Wall : Peter Principle (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: A post script, of sorts, over a decade later.
To my chagrin, it seems that therewas quite the hullabalu over the grading of this climb at 10d vs 11a and lots of people talking about ego and injury and sandbagging...
Now, a decade later, it seems that the 11a crowd outnumbers the 10d crowd by 3:1. So it is 11a. Which we all know to be slightly easier than 10d much of the time... (As often acknowledged with a wink in mainstream climbing media.)

I'm just trying to figure now, why, if this is re... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: I'm measuring things up and thinking that snake might end up with a rough day as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Implied Consent (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: And having forgotten I'd ever done it, I went to do it again today and had an OK time on it. It is seldom traveled, but it has had a good cleaning and probably deserves a star. The rating felt right, and the gear was within reason this time. Just goes to show - that there are good and bad days both!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: An ascent of this route should include P2 for full value. The pitch is significant, worthy, and fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: The most natural feeling way to do this thing at a moderate grade is to pass the first anchors and head up and right through the roof. But instead of the airy traverse to the set of anchors above P.S., 30' to your left, stay on the arete with occasional gear (5.8+, PG13), and head to the anchors at the top of P2's diherdral. It is a fun and very worthy var. that I had not done in over 10 years. A 70m rope is long enough to rap/lower from those to the belay ledge 20' up if you started from there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Tony B When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: That system was used in other areas and guides instead of letters, for as long as you and I have been climbing and longer. In fact, it predates the use of letters in grades, as you should know after 43 years.
I.e. 5.9-, 5.9, 5.9+. Or i.e. 12-, 12, 12+ instead of 12a,b,c,d....
It is less specific in that case, subdivided into 3 grades instead of 4.

On THIS SITE, 12- is between 12a and 12b, and 12+ is between 12c and 12d, more or less in line with how I use it. This site is what is relevant her... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Richard,
Long time no see. I hope all is going well.

There is no point in changing what you wrote if that's your opinion and you own it and you're not beholden to anyone to change it. The consensus vote shows in the route a few lines down anyway. People can click "details" to see how that was arrived at.

Voices in disagreement are a valuable aspect of the data here. My ongoing discussion here has never been to attempt to get everyone on a single grade or page, it was to defend that the multipl... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Linking this route through to Middle Earth is a great run, and much more consistent in grade and nature of the climbing than linking to Hobbit Book. I'd advocate for that option if you want to continue in the 5.10 range. The climbing on Middle Earth is still quite good, though admittedly less traveled.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Ms. Fanny Le Pump (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: VERY tough warm-up... crux right off of the ground and quite an A$$ kicker at that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Eat Right (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: By wandering back and forth quite a bit between the 3 cracks in all, one may be able to skip the cruxes of all of the lines and reduce the grade to a 5.9 or 5.9-. We referred to this as 'Eat It All.'


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Othello (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: A little research has revealed that though the last few BoCan books have misplaced 'Othello' in terms of where it lies, that this is it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : East Prow (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Yep, single large pieces are good enough, but sure, one #3 Camalot and one #4 Friend.
With a larger rack, you can do what we did and finish the whole thing in 4 long pitches with a 70m rope (and likely with a 60m) if you simul-climb the easy part on the 1st pitch. Casual 1/2 day.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ " Would anyone be especially offended if we went ahead and retro-bolted a couple of bolts for an anchor up there?"

Wow. Excellent troll.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Join The Party (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: The large loose flakes have been removed. There is some dirt on the rock there now. It will take a few rains or a brush to clean it up, but you can climb around it just fine as well.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Scots on the Rocks (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Pretty good route. Although short, the (very) long approach and involved descent (The Loft) make doing this a pretty legit alpine day.
P1 is pretty mellow and is indeed a good 200' to the belay. I found the rock more solid going RIGHT after the hanging, pink flake and the grade more like 5.8, but it is well-protected.
P2 is probably 150' and not 180' and is sustained at a 5.8 or so grade but for 3 slightly harder moves.
P3 wanders a bit but use of slings can make this thing go smoothly. I had a... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Heh.... Wait until you try a few of the mid 12s!!!
Mark told me that he "redpoint" graded these, meaning once you have the moves down, that is how it will feel.
Some similar discussion w/input from Mark and Richard appears here:
Touch Gold ratings


Location: Tony B : Climbing in J-Tree : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: I don't recall getting down being much an issue. Maybe I downclimbed the tree?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Out to Pasture aka Momentus... (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: I can see where it is a different climb if you want to stay completely away from the stinkin' piles of BS in the corner... but yeah, those are retrobolts and the climb is 5.10. For a 5.11, get on Momentum Operator, to the right.


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