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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,856
Last Year: 412
Last 30 Days: 77
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14592 | Routes 1246 | Areas 121 | Photos 1383 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1660 | Posts 4523 | Stars 3567 | Ratings 2090
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Sphinx : Lower East Face, Sphinx (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Directly up from the tree was 5.8 with some questionable rock, very little protection (a #3 Camalot would have perhaps protected the exit moves), and is quite steep. If you fall, you will need med-evaced or a body recovery.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Tony B When: 4 days ago

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Comments: ^^^ If you don't feel safe, you won't be safe, but that doesn't mean adding a bolt.
LCD = Least Common Denominator.
Whatever you do it it scary to somebody. That route gets climbed by a dozen people a day and doesn't need a change.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crac... (5.10 PG13)
By: Tony B When: 4 days ago

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Comments: ^^ Genuine curiosity here. How did you protect off of the belay ledge in the little flare?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The West Arete (of T1) (5.9+ X)
By: Tony B When: 6 days ago

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Comments: 3 pins total there right now - one is left of the arete and backs up with a small (first knuckle) stopper or cam. The two on the arete are so-so but should hold a fall. No way to back them up though.
I believe the FA was done on free solo, so I'm not sure when the pins happened to be placed.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : In And Out Of The Groove (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: The low crux is also pretty height dependent...


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Mallory Flatironette : East Face/Mallory Flatironn... (Easy 5th)
By: Tony B When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ The Shark's Fin is the formation above the cave and between The Hand and The Finger. The Mallory Flatironette is the small slab down and left of the terminus of the cave trail. Its singular summit lies just down and left (S/SE) of the cave entrance.

Some confusion here is probably caused by the height in the description, which is may be accurate, but only places you perhaps 60 or 70' above the point on the Mallory Cave Trail where it leaves dirt and goes onto rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Bear Creek Spire : Northeast Corner (5.4)
By: Tony B When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: To answer the above - it is hard to say. The corner up to the large pine with the sling on it (which is unusable, but I was soloing anyway) is not too bad. beyond that - there are good and bad sections of rock. The slabs to the right side of the corner that reach the top are pretty friable and lichen-covered. At the very least, exercise caution, but you can climb it, even solo.
Just FYI - there are far better routes in the Flatirons. Those being almost any you could possibly pick. This was ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ My current set is not lonely.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Marine Life (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Better than it looks. Left side of water streak is more solid and cleaner than the streak itself.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Eyes of the Canyon : Lichen Wars (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: After a brief, dirty start, the route quickly becomes more solid and easier than the given name/grade implies.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Red Tide (5.10c R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: Might be harder than it was, as I broke off several holds.
Leading this would be a total gamble.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Hard to Say (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: The climb is not that great, in my opinion. We did P1 of Mussafar's Home Cookin', since this route was taken by another party, then merged in and climbed the rest. That start and the rest being 1-star climbing. Is it possible that the P1 was really so classic as to make up for the slightly crumbly and ledgy climbing on the rest of the route? I'd still only give it 2 starts if P1 was "excellent." The Black Wall climbs are just that much better, I guess.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Hard to Say (5.10) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: That thing really is pretty disconcerting, and if it did come out... yep> Death. The helmet won't help.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Mother Goose (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: P1-P2 linked = 190'. Take a few long slings. Yellow Camalot and a medium Alien can protect the section with gritty rock.


Location: Glenn Schuler : Mt. Herman : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Wow, cool photo.
I think it's great that Elanor both pointed this out to us AND came clean on her idiocy in a single post.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Tony B When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: The pictures here are well-done enough so as to mislead the viewer into thinking the ridge is more technical than it is. All in all much less interesting than anticipated, but yet the perception of the route seems to keep the crowds away. We did not pass nor were we passed by anyone on the route, despite the virual caterpillar of folks on the other routes up Grey's/Torrey's.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Storm Riders (5.10- R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Eli,
As per the above, that seems to be the case. It looks like we diverged into a different but very similar P2, and from there were off on our own.
The new Rossiter book for RMNP will detail both routes.
I'll try to write these up separately here as well.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Ultimate Everything (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: What size nut?
Are these 3/8" or 1/2" or ???


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
By: Tony B When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Good question. I was going to try to go to Mechanical Man the other day, and it was a new slick trench. No go until the water falls significantly.

Let's be sure to update each approach as we find them.
Desdemona/Area 51 are good to cross - wider than they used to be, but walkable with a stick.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile
By: Tony B When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: How is the approach since the flood?
Any changes?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Creekside : Liquid Therapy (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Even though the bottom may be out of the water & be belayed from a river rock at the base, the creek-spray can make it quite slick for the opening moves.


Location: International : Europe : Norway : Lofoten : Presten : Vestpillaren (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: If this route were in Yosemite, it would be one of the best moderates in Yosemite, and the best of the routes I have done there. This is the very definition of a "destination route."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: We are old pals - we talk A LOT.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Skull and Bones (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ What is a better substitute?


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Desdemona : Northwest Arete (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Pretty good climbing and gear - not as hard as appearances might suggest. Great as a single pitch.


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