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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,643
Last Year: 398
Last 30 Days: 24
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 14443 | Routes 1231 | Areas 121 | Photos 1375 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1640 | Posts 4489 | Stars 3524 | Ratings 2062
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Norway : Lofoten : Presten : Vestpillaren (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: If this route were in Yosemite, it would be one of the best moderates in Yosemite, and the best of the routes I have done there. This is the very definition of a "destination route."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: We are old pals - we talk A LOT.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Skull and Bones (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ What is a better substitute?


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Desdemona : Northwest Arete (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Pretty good climbing and gear - not as hard as appearances might suggest. Great as a single pitch.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Desdemona : Oasis Red (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: A little crumbly rock detracts from otherwise very good and interesting climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Those are not tights... they are baggy pants.
WINNING!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: For those who were not aware, the Matron closure was lifted early this year (5/15/14) - go for it.
https://bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cliff-nesting-raptor-closur>>>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Egg : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Midway and no helmet? Dude, given how you attack others' photos, I can only conclude that this is an accident...


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : White Wall : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Ben ,
Given your propensity for adding a comment about a helmet to other's photos, I find this offensive. Where is the helmet, again?


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Hatchery : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Ben ,
Given your propensity for adding a comment about a helmet to other's photos, I find this offensive. Where is the helmet?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Deviation, Lower : East Face, Lower Deviation (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Didn't read this until after I headed up there. When I hit the worst of the crumbling rock at about a meter below the overlap, I turned around and down-climbed the crumbling crap below me back to the base.
The climbing isn't HARD per se. I'd probably run right up it on a rope., but there remains the question of the safety of soloing on this stuff. Roach called the formation "scruffy and unpleasant", and I'd say that's about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Marie Antoinette (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, the first bolt of M.G. can be reached for and clipped prior to the rising traverse here, but there are still no bolts on it.
And also agreed that the RPs I placed (actually H.B. "Anchors" and B.D. "Copper-Steel") were most useful without the bolt and perhaps not needed if that is what you are going to do, but I thought at least one of them would have held. Then again, I don't fall much, and I could be wrong about that.
Not falling is by far the best option and going after a lead like this... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Cool. Nice to have some longer stuff coming in. How long are those pitches?
The wall that was traditionally called Devil's Head as of 30+ years ago is certainly long enough for 5-6 pitch stuff, and I've personally done some of it.
So there is such potential in the area:
i.e.: Dariush of Balanat.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Saddle Rock : West Dihedral / Saddle Rock
By: Tony B When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: This AM, Wade M. soloed and cleaned a right-hand finish at the top of this climb that goes out right from the corner above the 5.2 Var. onto a sloping ledge and up a crack and flake. The holds are mostly very positive,and the rock seems pretty solid. Some gear would be possible on lead. Maybe 5.7?


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Can be done in 3 pitches instead of 5. Nice to keep ahead of a log-jam at belays or to get up there before the heat/cold/storm/dark sets in:
P1 - combine P1/P2 with a 60M rope and 30' of 5.2 simulclimbing or use a 70M rope.
P2 - Do P3 but continue to just below the roof on P4, or with a 70M continue past that roof and belay
P3 - Head for the top of the tower.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Broken Tree (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Expected a crux and less gear up high. Got no crux, but got great gear. Nice route regardless of the grade.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Some of the best rock and moves at the tower. That's a real compliment.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ Obviously doesn't use the internet much, or forgot to turn off the parental controls in his browser. (giggle)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : The Solar Wall : The Solar Panel (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: This is near to or perhaps the same and Dave Stewart and Mike Bannister's FA in 2006 (not posted, but I was beside them on the wall that day).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : Beau! (5.7+)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Good, but don't fall. The gear is actually sparse, and the small stuff is only as solid as the rock it is in... which is questionable for small gear. That rock flexes a bit and can crumble at the surface letting go of small gear.
A solid head is your best pro.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fi : Extraterrestrial (5.6 R)
By: Tony B When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: This climb can be done as a single pitch on 70m rope from a ledge 15' up. It's a ledge just big enough to sit or comfortably stand and is just down and climber's left of the small pine tree. The route felt maybe 5.3 to the summit and ridge done more or less directly up from the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fi : Hi Fi (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Done up and then left, the route is a little harder and gear is a concern, and it' is probably 45' onto the E Face. Safer is to do it to the right, coming onto the E. Face close to the top of the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Finger Flatiron : Polydoigt (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: I think I broke off a key foothold, if this thing was a bodylength left of the dihedral of Thicker. It's thin now too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: As per the above: to rap to the ground from there, yes, you need a 70m.
However, you can rap the route with a 50m if you go to the station to climber's left on top of the March Of Dimes pillar as described in the topos and this route description.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park
By: Tony B When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: There is nice camping in the park, or there was last I knew anyway. It has been a while, but $14/night wasn't bad for a picnic table, trash services, fire ring, and toilets... it might be more now - probably.

There is camping outside of town on public land. I took this photo (below) from a little road we camped off of the first time I was there climbing at Chuckawalla, on the way to Vegas.

I'd say call the climbing shop, or stop buy there to buy a few bars and ask.

The Town of Saint George & some of it's surrounding crags, as seen from a mesa above, where there was once free camping... Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/03.
The Town of Saint George & some of it's surrounding crags, as seen from a mesa above, where there was once free camping... Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/03.



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