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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 23,510
Last Year: 897
Last 30 Days: 33
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 15104 | Routes 1271 | Areas 123 | Photos 1444 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1729 | Posts 4661 | Stars 3677 | Ratings 2197
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: 22 hours ago

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Comments: Heh... Wait until you try a few of the mid 12's!!!
Mark told me that he "redpoint" graded these, meaning once you have the moves down, that is how it will feel.
Some similar discussion W/input from Mark and Richard appears here:
Touch Gold Ratings


Location: Tony B : Climbing in J-Tree : Photo
By: Tony B When: 1 day ago

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Comments: I don't recall getting down being much an issue. Maybe I downclimbed the tree?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Out to Pasture aka Momentus... (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: 1 day ago

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Comments: I can see where it is a different climb if you want to stay completely away from the stinkin' piles of BS in the corner... but yeah, those are retrobolts and the climb is 5.10. For a 5.11, get on Momentum Operator, to the right.


Location: Tony B : Climbing Route Pictures Fro... : Photo
By: Tony B When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Yeah, I got junk in my eyes and was trying to blink it out when Peter snapped that shot. But the last 2 times I was up there I really cleaned it up on the holds. It is much better now than 10 years ago.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: As to the grade, 80-some people have enteres a grade and voted.
Survey says... 5.11+.
More say 11c or easier than suggest 5.12a or harder.

Obviously this is just one of those climbs that inspires debates.

As to the comment immediatly prior to this one: It is not a downgrade if you are right. It's an inflated grade that started it all. Defending that with any righteousness is a fools errand. It's one thing to share your opinion, it's another to criticize others' as invalid preening.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : T-Zero West Face aka Finger... (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: Yeah - looks like they should be merged. Apparently the names are not the same in all books (I used the Rossiter Book from the '90s), and the layout of the routes in any book is, at best, confusing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Doc's Route (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Lots of scrambling in between 2 sections that make that up. While not a total bomb, there are reasons why people bolted a lot around there but not this one.
I more or less lead/bouldered/soloed everything around there in 2001 and never thought it was worthy of mention or attention. This line does protect on a few small cams low down prior to bolt #1. Here is the question - isn't that about all the protection you need? If you can do that, the rest is a cake walk.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
By: Tony B When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: So what is the 3-bolt variation up and left of the last Pitch of Empor? It goes up from the left-leaning corner, then up 5 meters of easy terrain to a 1st bolt, a more moderate moves to a second bolt, then up a few harder moves to a 3rd, hangerless bolt (swage on a stopper and rely on nerves and friction). Then up and right to an exit on harder still moves.
Maybe 5.11?
Anybody got a story on this thing?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Actually, the small stoppers (#4 BD nut and small brass) on the bottom of this are BOMBER!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: PSA: THE BOULDERADO is CLOSED FRIDAY (and Hwy CO 119).
The Boulderado climbing area will be closed by CDOT from 6:00 am until noon on Friday, June 5 for removal of a loose block, and the highway will be closed during some of that time. Thanks to CDOT for taking care of the dangerous block!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Cracked Lens (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: The plant-filled crack variation would go on gear if cleaned of the (hardly endangered) grass in it. Could probably do it on rap.

There is an anchor on the large tree above that presently consists of a chewed up faded bit of 9/16" webbing that I wouldn't dream of a rap from and a 5mm acc cord that looks just fine. A single 1760# SWL Mallion goes through both.

It would be good to cut the crappy tat and replace it with something nicer as a second piece.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Air Apparent (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: The thin flake on P2 protects well in blue/green Aliens or equiv. Take a few of each.

As well, the belay atop P1 is on 2-3" cams, so take a few of those BEYOND that needed to protect P1 or the belay is going to be a tough one. Not much alternative there.

I'd give it more stars were it longer.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Alone on Memorial Day on this climb. Can link raps w/twin 70's for a very short descent...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Could'nt be Schmooter (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Maybe a difficult lead for beginning trads due to gear on the bottom half. Great route though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Grape Nuts (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Mostly mellow, but one very very thin move just below the small roof is a crux. Great rock means you stick to it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Protection was never further than 15' apart. It did require patience, an eye, and creativity. This can be protected JUST FINE by a crafty and experienced leader, but is not for the beginning trad climber.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sand Felipe (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Would have been better with fewer bolts, but it is still quite good.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Skipping the 4th pitch would be a darn shame. It's as good as anything else!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Perhaps over graded if you are accustomed to Indian Creek Corners already. Hard part is #3 camalots. Top part is wide but not so hard. Don't let the grade intimidate you. The climb is worth the try.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Have a Beer with Fear (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Sequential, but felt 11a. Holds are pretty good. Caustic felt harder, but of similar quality.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Elbows of Mac and Ronnie (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Bad crux hold and not an obvious hold to go to from there... felt more like 11c, at least. Would be way harder for short folks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Fixed #3 camalot is in a fairly bad place up high - right where you'd jam or protect. As a result the climb has fewer options and may feel more hand-size dependent. If someone can take up a cable saw or something else to clean that crap out it would be a community service.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Nice. That crag is on my hit list, so I was curious if I should take up a brush or anything. Sounds like I should.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Looks like an interesting route. How much work/cleaning does the "crumbling dihedral" need and how much will it change/help that situation? Any particular thing you can think of that should be taken up for a subsequent ascent?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Weevil's Walk (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Climbing to access the first fixed pin (which is terrible) is 5.8, PG-13. The beginning of the crack is 5.10- then predominantly 5.9 for a bit.

If the splitter crack were the length of a full pitch, there would be a line to wait in to get on this climb but the best quality is for about 20-25'. The second pitch is easily adjoined for 125' total as a single pitch. Take large stoppers and double down on hand-sized gear.

Also - the best approach is via Jimmy G. (5.9+, fingers and hands - strenuous... more >>


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