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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 23,493
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Last 30 Days: 30
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 14988 | Routes 1272 | Areas 123 | Photos 1443 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 1707 | Posts 4623 | Stars 3651 | Ratings 2167
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Nice. That crag is on my hit list, so I was curious if I should take up a brush or anything. Sounds like I should.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: Tony B When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Looks like an interesting route. How much work/cleaning does the "crumbling dihedral" need and how much will it change/help that situation? Any particular thing you can think of that should be taken up for a subsequent ascent?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Weevil's Walk (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Climbing to access the first fixed pin (which is terrible) is 5.8, PG-13. The beginning of the crack is 5.10- then predominantly 5.9 for a bit.

If the splitter crack were the length of a full pitch, there would be a line to wait in to get on this climb but the best quality is for about 20-25'. The second pitch is easily adjoined for 125' total as a single pitch. Take large stoppers and double down on hand-sized gear.

Also - the best approach is via Jimmy G. (5.9+, fingers and hands - strenuous... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Unknown Left - AKA: Toilet... (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: It is the wrong route, no doubt...
The question is who edited it to put the AKA: in there and make this the wrong route?!?!
I just described what I described and called it an unknown.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose
By: Tony B When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: Agreed. I'd think it most appropriate to edit this page without completely changing the expressed opinions. I think appropriate amendment is in order though. The Admins are welcome to referee that. I'm not terribly invested in it one way or the other, other that to insure that a reader is informed that there are still some older, particularly loose/dangerous/low quality climbs up there and not to get onto any given climb expecting that they are all good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Short But Sweet (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: "About as little fun you can possibly have climbing without getting hurt."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Hare Balls (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: To the above I answer:
Absolutely there is a reason.
Because it has been lead on trad alone for decades.
One does not just go adding bolts to climbs that have been done trad.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ A.C.E and B.C.C proudly fund bolt replacement in the area. You can find and donate to either on the net or on Facebook.
(Action Committee for Eldorado and Boulder Climbing Community)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Kraft Crags : The Last Calico (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: So what is the story on the 5.8(?) variation that stays left and stops after 20 meters at an anchor?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : The Untitled (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Sustained very thin holds. Make sure your tips are hardened and your toes well rested.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Autumn (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: In the old Hackworth books, this was 5.8 and Rock Wars was 5.9.
Perhaps the grading is reflective of people's reluctance to upgrade by too much, or perhaps you just had a hard time on it. It is a pretty physical climb, and perceptions of grades are somewhat intangible.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : The Radlands of Infinity (5.12d)
By: Tony B When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Jason,
We (OK, more specifically *I*) broke some holds off when we were on it in 2010.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Downclimb/Sentinel Pass : West Face/Downclimb aka Wes... (5.4)
By: Tony B When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: AKA: West Chimney.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Dead Crow (5.11+ PG13) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: We'll have to talk with Mr Sunset about all that 'added' red.
It is a scanned slide, undoctored.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Laugh (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Prod,
Essentially, yes. The second crux is right above the 2 bolts. I believe that someone added one because the first was sketchy, but didn't finish the job. Or maybe they intentionally wanted a bail point between the thinner crux (scarier).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Direct at 2nd to last bolt is balancy but not 5.12, or at least not hard 5.12 if you have a good wingspan.
I still don't like the idea that this got bolted. It was always a nice TR, now it's a squeeze job with bolts clip-able from previously existing routes.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Second Coming (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Funny that. I wrote the description, and the consensus pretty much falls in line with what I wrote. I said 3*'s and 12a, and so did about 1/2 of all other opinions. (34 of the 71 reviewers) Some comments mention some detractors, some don't. I guess not all people (Rolofson) are inclined to believe that their opinion isn't really worth anything more than mine. Especially when they are also not locals.
I suppose, I conclude that: 'Mark Rolofson uses the route comment forum to take personal i... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves
By: Tony B When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Nate, thanks for the contribution - the hotel sounds like a great find.
One correction to add to your commentary though:
"Because the sun is on the walls (except for Damai) until noon"

Part of the year, yes. But being below the trips, as you know, means that the sun comes from the NORTH for what we'd call Summer.

Also - Nanyang Wall is at least as good as Nyamuk. Check it out next time!


Location: CO : Boulder
By: Tony B When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: I was trad climbing before work at sunrise this AM. That's less usual (32 deg, but sunny, and the rock was warm) but still possible much of the time.
Barring a freak storm, April is prone climbing weather at the lower altitude crags.
RMNP peak crags will be wet or snow-locked. Eldo will be good, Table will be good, much of the South Platte will be good in some areas (facing South). Bocan will be a crap-shoot depending on rain/snow/temps that set of days on the higher crags, but HIGHLY LIKELY ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Skip 'n' Go Naked (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: Funny thing was, Eric, we saw it too, but Joseffa and I don't own or use chalk.
So, there was a 3rd party around in the recent past.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : W (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: One of the few routes I've ever looked at and said "that's just too bushy for me."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Skip 'n' Go Naked (5.8 R)
By: Tony B When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Funny, I'd just go to add this thing, and there it is, added moments ago.

Yeah - R/X. X for the fact that it is not protected at all, R maybe because it is only 40' tall? I say X for an inevitable groundfall. Good climb, though.

I see mention that there is now a webbing anchor on the tree at the top for those who wish to TR it. Apparently the submitting party did it right after us. It is a single 9/16" strand. Back it up with a sling if you feel that is inadequate.

An unmentioned downclimb tr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : The Slide (5.0 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: 4th class until one move at the top. Perhaps this is the better downclimb than the designated corner, which is blocky and dirty.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: Actually, She was wearing long pants - you can bruise through pants.
The funniest thing was years later she tells me:
"I was looking at pics on MP and I saw this one of some really bruised up legs and I thought, 'Oh Gross' and then I realized that it was me."


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: I have no objection to someone 'adopting' the route and changing it.
The guidebook years and years ago was less than clear about several things.
Better information would be welcome.

If you think you have the energy to "do it right" then contact the area admin, have him check this comment and re-assign the route to you.

Deleting it is less appropriate, as people's stars, ticks, and relevant comments (other than this discussion) can remain if it is simply reworked.


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