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Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5
Total Points: 22,489
Last Year: 452
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All (14281) | Routes (1225) | Areas (120) | Photos (1363) | Comments (1619) | Posts (4428) | Stars (3489) | Ratings (2037)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: As per the above: to rap to the ground from there, yes, you need a 70m.
However, you can rap the route with a 50m if you go to the station to climber's left on top of the March Of Dimes pillar as described in the topos and this route description.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park
By: Tony B When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: There is nice camping in the park, or there was last I knew anyway. It has been a while, but $14/night wasn't bad for a picnic table, trash services, fire ring, and toilets... it might be more now - probably.

There is camping outside of town on public land. I took this photo (below) from a little road we camped off of the first time I was there climbing at Chuckawalla, on the way to Vegas.

I'd say call the climbing shop, or stop buy there to buy a few bars and ask.

The Town of Saint George & some of it's surrounding crags, as seen from a mesa above, where there was once free camping... Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/03.
The Town of Saint George & some of it's surrounding crags, as seen from a mesa above, where there was once free camping... Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/03.



Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Navajo Peak : North Face of Dicker's Peck (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Well, that makes some sense, as we did it in 7/2003, and we talked about it. But sure, it may have done prior to then, I was surprised it was not published, nor seemingly traveled.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Muscle and Hate (5.10d PG13)
By: Tony B When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ Q: "What am I missing?"
A: Both an identity and the route, apparently.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: I think Travis may have been teasing - after all, the one nearest and right of center looks more "Eager" than "Nervous."


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Photo
By: Tony B When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Heh - well, you missed some history on the photo and why it was posted, but yeah... not a surprise.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Yellow Brick Road (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Honestly, a verbal answer to that is a little hard to give and be certain it has been correctly related in detail, but the topos in the Haas and Rositer guides are fairly clear, as memory serves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Tony B When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Ha. Well, in turn, I never never rated this route 12a until Mark Rolofson posted it on this website. I put on the website as "12-", as in: "the easier side of 12", but not necessarily 12a. I am not generally a 12+ leader, so I figured it to the bottom side of 12s.
Hopefully you didn't take offense to me having an opinion, regardless.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Bushwack Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: YMMV - sometimes I forget to account, in descriptions, for my very thin fingers.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: I've done the route, and I might have asked a similar question. I never clipped a tag line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Day 444 (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: My partner pulled one of the multiple flakes off that I had avoided. I think the flood or the freeze-thaws got to this route pretty bad.


Location: CO : An Evening with Jeff Lowe &...
By: Tony B When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Tickets for this on sale yet?
Where is the online auction site?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tigger Plus (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Actually, you stay left the entire time, only merging with Tiger for 20-30 feet and that is called "Tigger Overhang" in the Levin book. 5.8 ** (on a 3* scale in that book), and I more or less agree.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Flight 67 to Stockholm (5.11a/b)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: It was polished and devious a few years ago - it can not have gotten much better. Save it for a cool, crisp day.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Fast Boat to China (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Awkward at the base and harder than 5.8 at the thin fingers section. Good though.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Upper Capitalist Crag : Hours For Dollars (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Watch out for that ledge on the lower part of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Vitamin-N (5.8+)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Right after bolt #2, left after bolt #3, otherwise it feels harder.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : I Spy (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: The bottom 5 meters are a somewhat dirty solo. The rest of the climb is clean, solid and fun!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : Southern Cross (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: I and my partner both thought it odd that this got 1* and Crooked got 3* in the Gillett book. They are not so different in quality. The rock and moves on the top part of this are just as good.
For the best experience, do this one early in the AM (shade), and do it as a single pitch to the top in 50m.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : Fogline (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: It has cleaned up well. It is now a great route with the best and crux up top if you stay on the left of the arete where the bolts are. You can cheat right, but then I'm not sure it is 5.10.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Middle Small Wall : The Quest (5.10+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: 4 pitches for a 200' route?!?!?
I didn't have any drag problems the way I protected it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Piton Spire : Piton D'Or (The Golden Pito... (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Protection - 1 set nuts, 1 set cams from tiny to #3 Camalot, with a few extras in the #0.75-2 Camalot range - the pitches are long, after all. Also a #4 Camalot is useful once or twice on the route, particularly at the short crux of P3, but in that case, the 'old' #4 is better than the C4 #4.

Pitch lengths:

P1. (5.9 crux to start) 55m.
Move the belay up and right.
P2. (moderate, to below wide crack headwall) 58m.
P3. Wide crack headwall - 55m to near summit towe... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Make the Cut (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: P.S. This has also been linked through the upper section on TR. Above the initial crack, undercling the overlap and jam a flaring pod at the end of your reach, then get funky (as in 5.11+/12-) to sag onto that and reach much higher to a second flaring jam and pull into a second crack, a few meters above the overlap. Ride this crack until it ends... above gear at a very very thin 5.11 mantle onto a moderate slab to the top. A fall could be pretty ugly and out of control, backwards and up-side ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Eclipse (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Thin hands at base - crux is getting off the ground at 5.9-.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : The Arch of Titus (5.7+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: This still could use some cleaning - the finger cracks up high are excellent, but it needs to be a little more dug out. If/when that happens, this will be a climb with multiple options for line and difficulty, but it's going to take some work.
A 70m rope gets one to a nice ledge 10' of the starting ledge and 10' with a nice 20 second walk-off to the packs.


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