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Member Since: Oct 9, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 9, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 286 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 24 | Posts 29 | Stars 123 | Ratings 108
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
On the summit of KOP

On the summit of KOP

UT : Moab Area : ... : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)

Jul 12, 2011

Top of the tower. Very windy day, lost the green rope on the repel...

Top of the tower. Very windy day, lost the green rope on the repel...

UT : Moab Area : ... : Fine Jade (5.11a)

Jul 12, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Tommey-James When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: I got a #4 stuck at the top of the third pitch belay. We were running out of light, so I had to leave it. If someone gets it out, I will gladly buy you any 6 pack of your choice. If not, it is a good cam and I hope it comes in useful for you.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Tommey-James When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: This route is GREAT! I got shit on March 11' trying this route and had to bail at the crux. I returned today and got it with one hang at the top of the "first pitch"/at the base of the crux dihedral. Do this route if you are able. The gear is really good the whole way and the climbing is so much fun, finger locks galore. Gear Beta: have a 0.4 camalot pre-drawn for the heart of the crux, you will be stoked.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Wingtip (5.10c PG13)
By: Tommey-James When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun route with good liebacking. It is a bit thin off the start but a #6 BD and a blue TCU will keep you from having a bad day. Aside from that, I would take gear to green Camalot possible a red Camalot, but I didn't use it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Tommey-James When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: I did this route yesterday and here are my thoughts. The bolt is in a great spot, I do not think moving it up would be a good idea. At the crux, you can get a bomber #5 BD RP in the bottom part of the flake. I fell probably a good 10-12 feet on it, and it held. Great line, it is soooo fun. All pitches are very fun at their respected grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: I thought that pulling the bulge on the 3rd pitch was the physcial crux. I laid back the OW and physcially it was not too bad at all but it is very commiting, doing it true off width style would be very tuff


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: Finally did this the other day, man oh man is it good. The first pitch is more spicy than the 2nd in my opinion. A fall on the 5.8 above the roof would suck balls but probably be safe. The 2nd pitch does not require any big cams IMHO, I carried up a 2, 3, and 4 and didn't use any of them. I probably could have used them near the 0.75 slot neat the top but there was already a good 0.75 there. Were I to do again, I would take a full pack of nuts and one set of cams from blue TCU to #1 Camalo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: Did this route yesterday to approach The Edge, wow it is so good. Really enjoyed it. I think it is better doing it in one long pitch rather than two short pitches.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: Finally did this today. There is still a c3 and a nut on pitch 1. The 2nd pitch is really fun and the slab part is mildly spicy. The bombay chimney is not as bad as people make it out to be. A yellow TCU/ master cam can be used below the pin and possible more stuff (a blue/yellow offset master cam might be good?). It is run out by the end of it, but once you are established in the Chimney, you won't fall out unless you want to (ie you give up). The last 11 pitch has a good series of hard moved b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Great gear, thought the cruz was down low exiting the finger locks and getting to the hand crack. 10a is perfect, for sure no harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Practice Wall (5.11a)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Only did pitch 1. Thought it was fun, a bit short. The gear is all good. You do a decent move (10+) 4 ft above great gear, then you get a good stem. I put in a green C3, Tony says a nut works too, which I had put in say a 5/6 RP instead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Eight Crack (5.8 R)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Small run out close to ground, easy not to fall, though. Fun route, worth doing if have done all other climbs in area, higher up climbing is really fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerial Book (5.11a R)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Awesome climb. Lead each pitch separately (linking would be easy).

Pitch 1 - 10a/b IMHO definitely not an R pitch, and probably not even a PG-13 pitch. The bottem section is easy and protectable with 2, 3, 4, and/or 5 (I used a 2 & 4). Then base of the stemming section can be protected with an orange TCU (or similar) and a small nut. Then you launch into the stemming section I had only 1 each 2 & 3 RP and felt perfectly safe. If you had 2 or 3 # 3 RPs, this would be pretty much sewn up. M... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11b)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Really fun climb with really small pro for the first 20/25 ft. I found the crux to be a reasonably well-protected. It is a little scary busting the crux moves near the deck on thin pro, though. Up higher, the climbing eases off, but the gear is a little spaced, not too big of a deal if you made it through the bottom, though. I would recommend taking doubled of 0 and 00 size cams (may be even triple of 0 but not necessary). I thought it was more sustained than the crux pitch of C'est la Vie just ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Tyler, the first three pitches are way harder than 5.4. If you think The Wind Ridge (5.5) is harder than the Bastille, you are crazy. Calling this climb 5.4 goes well beyond sandbagging, it's being a jerk.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : March of Dimes (5.10)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Did Werks Supp to this gem. I thought it was a blast. Good pro, fun moves. I thought it was fair to grade at 10c but could agree with 10d.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Ansaid Tower (5.7)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: Fun route if you are tired and have done most of the stuff in the area


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Tommey-James When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: Super fun, super safe.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Disappearing Act (aka Krypt... (5.11a)
By: Tommey-James When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Really fun route! 130 feet of good climbing the whole way broken up by 2 great rests. I found the crux getting to the fixed cam not above in the dihedral, but that's just me. The whole climb protects really well. I did find one spot where I was 5/6 ft. above a #4 RP that was an ok placement, but aside form that, there is gear all over this thing. If you are in the area, go for it! Great climbing on great gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Kloof (5.10+)
By: Tommey-James When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: Really fun pitch. Not quite as long as I would have liked. The first 15 feet has no pro but, it is all positive and if you're going to make it up the rest of the climb, this shouldn't be a problem. Pro is pretty good the whole way. At the crux I found that a 0.4 c4 works low in the crack to the left; however, you have to set this piece blind and the crack isn't perfectly parallel throughout, so I would double this piece up. I think a green c4 or a red TCU would work pretty well in the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Tommey-James When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: As of 6/10/2011, there is a fixed nut at the crux.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: Tommey-James When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: How many of the C1 pitches can go free at 12a or lower?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Tommey-James When: Nov 24, 2010

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Comments: Hey so I dont know how one could possibly say that any move on pitch one is more diffcult then the so called finger crack on pitch 2. The crack on pitch 2 is .5 size and is ring locks for me, I didnt find a solid finger lock (.4) anywhere on the buldge crux on the second pitch. Overall great route, well worth doing if you are in the area.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Tommey-James When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: I did this route about 9 months ago and the bolts were well placed and necessary (for the most part). The 1st bolt on the upper bolted section is necessary to make the pitch safe, it is not un-do able now but it was much better protected. If I had to guess the guy who pulled the bolts is some self righteous cock who red-pointed his first 12- and thinks he is the shit.


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