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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : B.O. Butress : Tarantella (5.10d)
By: TomKingsbury When: Aug 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: To make matters even more confusing the dance (Tarantella) is actually referencing the spider (tarantula)
Cheers!
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Location: MT : Homestake Pass : Railroad Rocks : Rysinzube Left (5.9)
By: TomKingsbury When: Feb 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: sounds like it was Ian...
His comment
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Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock : 5.6 Crack (5.6)
By: TomKingsbury When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Spectator Sport (A2-)
By: TomKingsbury When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool Trevor! nice work on that, glad to see you get some pin work in!
cheers,
patrick
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Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock : 5.6 Crack (5.6)
By: TomKingsbury When: Jun 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's called "5.6 Crack", another example of that book renaming routes....
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Incredible Butt Crack (5.12-)
By: TomKingsbury When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super cool feature!!! i found it harder than the 'brother', there's gotta be more eh? i also used invert beta rather than the crazy squeeze you boys were using, not sure what works better though....
patrick
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Location: UT : Moab Area : The Needles District : The National Hot Rod Associ... (5.12a/b)
By: TomKingsbury When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: very cool mason! looks like a very nice find! that place could be stacked eh?
patrick
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Location: WY : Highway 14 Pinnacles : Road 10 Rocks : Ten Pin (5.9 R) : Photo
By: TomKingsbury When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: some cool lookin' rocks there trev!!!
cheers,
patrick
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Pat's Blue Ribbon (5.13-)
By: TomKingsbury When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
crux action...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Decreation (5.12)
By: TomKingsbury When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fixed pin was installed after two lead attempts with out it....
The gear is pretty much non-existent due to the flairing nature of the crack. A ground fall would pretty much be guaranteed if one botched the transition from the squeeze with out the pin.
-Patrick
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Libido Formation : Solitary Man (A3+)
By: TomKingsbury When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kyler Palister, just got the second ascent last weekend!!!!
(solo aswell)
confirmed the grade calling me a 'crazy bastard!'
nice work dude!
cheers,
patrick
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Ziji (5.12)
By: TomKingsbury When: Jan 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: excellent route!!!
most belays are single pin (except the top of p2), so you may want a couple extra pieces for that.
highly suggested!!!!
p.kingsbury
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Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Bozeman Ice Festival
By: TomKingsbury When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: December 5 - 7, 2008
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Buckspeck (5.10c)
By: TomKingsbury When: Oct 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: with all of the classics that dingus has established, this route just doesn't fit the standard. a shame of a route really. with the crux having the largest run-out, maybe only 15 feet, and then stances above where you can clip two bolts with out moving...wtf.
was thinking it was only done to piss off the park service? maybe
loose rock, that seems to be getting looser....
-patrick kingsbury
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Pinball Wizard (5.10a A4-) : Photo
By: TomKingsbury When: Oct 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: headlamps? who needs those!!
haha, that was a good mission!!!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : The Hourglass (5.11a)
By: TomKingsbury When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i thought it was .10++ haha
very good route though....highly suggested!
cheers,
patrick
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Windex (5.6 A3) : Photo
By: TomKingsbury When: Jul 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: we attempted the line in the center of the picture....two cracks right of the skunk and two left of your route, thinking it was a new line. We discovered a couple chopped (removed) anchors and a fixed head at the roof....any idea who the fa party was, and when ?
patrick kingsbury
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: TomKingsbury When: Feb 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best seasons are spring and fall, although if you chase the shade, you can avoid the summer heat, its a huge sun dial!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Roach Addition (5.7)
By: TomKingsbury When: Feb 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are definitely better routes at the tower, don't waste your time.
Of the 30 routes I've climbed here, this one and the first pitch of dump watt are the bottom two on the list. (although i heard that 'dump watt' was popular, and much cleaner in the 80's.)
don't get me wrong: "even the bad routes are good", but there are WAY better lines to be climbed at the Devils Tower
-Patrick
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: TomKingsbury When: Feb 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha,
nice shot, the time i posted it, got teased, because i obviously yammed on the last few pieces.
Franks old hostess, Lisa, about to clean a million pieces of gear!!!
very good route btw, hard to imagine dereck hersey onsight soloing that thing!!!
edit: i found carol's crack to be much easier than mr clean, along with the direct sw. maybe because the other two are locker fingers compared to the tight hands here.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Blotter is my Spotter (5.7 A4-)
By: TomKingsbury When: Feb 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Franks description (from rc.com)
This First Pitch was first climbed in August, 1989 by Frank Sanders , solo.
Pitch 1. (140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the corner. As height increases, the crack diminishes. The final 1/3 of the pitch is accomplished on hooks, RURPS, "heads" and a few tied-off blades. There is air to catch, but nothing to hit, Really. A 3-bolt belay rewards your efforts.
Pitches 2 & 3 were added in October 2007 by Patrick Kingsbury, Frank Sanders, with Faithful belays... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Park Politics (5.11b R)
By: TomKingsbury When: Feb 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possible to toprope this route by climbing 'Spank the Monkey' (5.10d), which is one crack system to the right. 2 ropes needed.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Spank The Monkey (5.10d)
By: TomKingsbury When: Oct 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: although the route looks grassy from below, you are actually climbing the crack on the right face, which is quite clean; and proves to be another tower classic!
pk
on a side note, this is pitch one of layton kor's 'saber' route, first climbed in 1964
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Direct Southwest (5.11b)
By: TomKingsbury When: Oct 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: possibly the pitch on the tower!
pk
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : One Way Sunset (5.10c)
By: TomKingsbury When: Mar 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If your gonna climb the one-way sunset, i'd highly suggest climbing the complete route, alittle loose towards the top, but excellent none the less.
toms brother patrick
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