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Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...


Member Since: Jun 2, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 203
Total Points: 2,565
Last Year: 287
Last 30 Days: 20
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2095 | Routes 90 | Areas 11 | Photos 250 | Page Improvements | Comments 250 | Posts 549 | Stars 883 | Ratings 62
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : Slider Boulders : The Lady Slipper Boulder : Lady Slipper (V2)
By: TomCaldwell When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Try exiting the crack out left skipping the jugs above the roof, V3?


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock : Main Face : Stone Wall Action (5.11) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: 6 days ago

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Comments: These photos kick ass! Kyle is quite the photog! Let him take the photos on your next project. bluewallphotography.com/blog


Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8)
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 4, 2014

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Comments: I agree with the "Old Timers" about the way this was done historically. I am not arguing that point. I guess I am having a hard time figuring out what is confusing about any of my descriptions. This isn't meant to be inflammatory.


Location: Stephen F : Climbing : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: We checked this out after rappelling Stone Wall a few weeks ago. It looks awesome. Where is the R section? It looked like big falls, but safe. I know there is a gap in the bolts about 2/3 of the way up, but I thought there might be some gear in horizontals.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock : Main Face : Stone Wall Action (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: What an amazing route! This adventure is not to be taken lightly. The harder climbing is well protected, but the moderate stuff not so much. I would recommend a rack of small gear to a #2 or #3, tricams, nuts, and doubles in the finger size. P3 requires one small piece of gear up high to take some of the sting out of the runout. So you can leave some weight with your belayer for this long sustained pitch.

Getting there: walk the base of the headwall until the ledge ends at a slab ap... more >>


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Toothpick (5.11b/c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: This is such a good route. Steep, great movement, and tons of exposure. Some of the above gear beta is not ideal. First, don't place any gear in Stan's Crack. As soon as you start up Stan's, make a move out right and get a good piece in the major horizontal out right. Continue straight up above this first piece and right near the edge of the arete. You can get more finger sized gear as you move up. The crack proper takes great nuts and an assortment of finger sized gear up to a .75. You don't ne... more >>


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Cornerstone (5.11a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: There is a large hornets nest near the anchors.


Location: Stephen F : Climbing : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Where is this? TR, SC?


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Airlie Gardens (5.9)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Stuart, try the right variation start. It is much more well protected and moderate. It will take a lot of the sting out of that direct start runout.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Extra Crimpy Chicken (5.11d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: There are quicklinks and rap rings on the anchor now. I know that double TCU's are recommended, but some of those slots pod in the back. It is better to place sideways nuts instead so they bite on the top and bottom of the eyebrows. Less chance to walk after moving past the placement. I would also recommend one larger piece like pink tricam or .5 C4 after the second bolt, but nothing larger.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : Petrified Cedar (5.11b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Don't fall above the bolts, especially not the headwall one. The angle of the slab below might wreck you. Still worth doing because of the great face climbing.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Aunt Jemima (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Who cares who sent this thing first, this climb sucks. It barely deviates from shredded. When it does, it is chossy, dirty, and poorly protected. The bolt is in the most ridiculous spot. Right when the climbing is easy, you get a bolt. How about you move the bolt 15 feet down where it actually matters, because the flake can break. This seems like a case of someone trying squeeze one in at cereal wall.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: I added some better approach beta with pictures of the complicated turns. This place deserves more traffic. It is the coolest summer temps in the lower Blue Ridge. Many ultra-classic vertical to slightly overhanging technical crimp fests. There are also some decent corner systems. The approach starts just to the right of the pit toilets. Go down the hill and the trail turns hard right. Follow this for 15 minutes to the log crossing. Shortly after the log crossing the trail crosses a creek and go... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Invisibility Lessons (5.9) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: There is a piece between her legs that she is clipped into. My guess is that it was causing drag or something so she unclipped the lower one and couldn't retrieve the cam before moving higher.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : ... : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: I like the low lighting. It adds to the drama of the route.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : The Vaporizer (5.12b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: This is one of the most cleanest and aesthetic face climbs at Whitesides. Solid rock, gear, and movement. This is probably my favorite single pitch at Whitesides and almost anywhere. Easily headpointed from the rap of Boulder Problem, but it deserves to be led.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Traditions (5.11c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: This climb was updated recently. All bolts are in great shape or brand new. Thanks Frost and Co. None of the original FA chopped bolts were restored. So this was a 1 for 1 back to it's most recent state. The P3 anchors had a bolt added to the belay. It would have been nice to see the first bolt on P1 restored, or at least cored out for a removable bolt placement. The crux pitch belay doesn't need anchors, there are plenty of gear anchors around that ledge.

Used Andrew's beta for P3, going direc... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : Phantom of the Opera (5.11c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Rp's aren't mandatory. They may contour feature better, but a stopper worked just fine. I am not sure I would take anything bigger than .75 or black metolius, but have doubles in that size.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : King of Kings (5.11d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I don't own the 00, but a 3 ballnut worked very well here. Hard to see from below, but the placement is much deeper. The gold ballnut is rated to 8kN, which makes you really happy for that last section. Also got a tricam in the horizontal before.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : King of Kings (5.11d) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Like a boss!


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk : pussyfootin' (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Great addition! I really liked this route. The first 3 bolts are sustained and exciting. The upper section had great position and movement. The final moves to the anchor are wild, especially if you don't have a second #1. I had purple tricam, which was okay.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock : Watergroove Wall : Dry Line (5.9 PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Exactly what Nathan said. I took the approach that the NC Select guide does for a place like Stone Mtn. NC when referring to an all-bolt protected line. Once you clip the first bolt on most of these routes, you should start to feel a lot more comfortable. Some of these you can also pre-clip, but you should want to clip normally if you plan on climbing at TR frequently.


Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: My description is for a direct start that avoids unneccesarily breaking the climb into two pitches. The more well protected start in the left corner was dirty looking and would result in drag if linking. The rap off monopoly was the easiest since it required one rope and the "inverted staircase" of SM leads that way.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Route Of The Living Dead (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Great climb! I would skip the last pitch. It is very dirty.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bronaugh Wall : Like A Turtle (5.11b) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Your correct. There is a big turtle head right after half way. I think you can cop a good rest on it as well.


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