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Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.


Member Since: Jun 2, 2009
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact TomCaldwell


Point Rank: # 204
Total Points: 2,490
Last Year: 243
Last 30 Days: 10
35 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has TomCaldwell been climbing?










Contributions


All 2003 | Routes 90 | Areas 11 | Photos 238 | Page Improvments | Comments 235 | Posts 520 | Stars 851 | Ratings 58
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : The Vaporizer (5.12b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: This is one of the most cleanest and aesthetic face climbs at Whitesides. Solid rock, gear, and movement. This is probably my favorite single pitch at Whitesides and almost anywhere. Easily headpointed from the rap of Boulder Problem, but it deserves to be led.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Traditions (5.11c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: This climb was updated recently. All bolts are in great shape or brand new. Thanks Frost and Co. None of the original FA chopped bolts were restored. So this was a 1 for 1 back to it's most recent state. The P3 anchors had a bolt added to the belay. It would have been nice to see the first bolt on P1 restored, or at least cored out for a removable bolt placement. The crux pitch belay doesn't need anchors, there are plenty of gear anchors around that ledge.

Used Andrew's beta for P3, going direc... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : Phantom of the Opera (5.11c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Rp's aren't mandatory. They may contour feature better, but a stopper worked just fine. I am not sure I would take anything bigger than .75 or black metolius, but have doubles in that size.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : King of Kings (5.11d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I don't own the 00, but a 3 ballnut worked very well here. Hard to see from below, but the placement is much deeper. The gold ballnut is rated to 8kN, which makes you really happy for that last section. Also got a tricam in the horizontal before.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : King of Kings (5.11d) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Like a boss!


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk : pussyfootin' (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Great addition! I really liked this route. The first 3 bolts are sustained and exciting. The upper section had great position and movement. The final moves to the anchor are wild, especially if you don't have a second #1. I had purple tricam, which was okay.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock : Watergroove Wall : Dry Line (5.9 PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Exactly what Nathan said. I took the approach that the NC Select guide does for a place like Stone Mtn. NC when referring to an all-bolt protected line. Once you clip the first bolt on most of these routes, you should start to feel a lot more comfortable. Some of these you can also pre-clip, but you should want to clip normally if you plan on climbing at TR frequently.


Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: My description is for a direct start that avoids unneccesarily breaking the climb into two pitches. The more well protected start in the left corner was dirty looking and would result in drag if linking. The rap off monopoly was the easiest since it required one rope and SM leads that way.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Route Of The Living Dead (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: Great climb! I would skip the last pitch. It is very dirty.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bronaugh Wall : Like A Turtle (5.11b) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Your correct. There is a big turtle head right after half way. I think you can cop a good rest on it as well.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Backdoor Man (5.12a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: 4 star movement, 1 star rock quality.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Torture Machine Area : Tangerine Dream (5.10d) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: I was commenting on the batman logo. Thanks for the insult though.


Location: Chris Lorimer : Photos : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Not my preferred method of aid, but you make it look good.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the trail head update.


Location: South Carolina : Table Rock
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: I believe new route development is not allowed in case anyone was wondering why FA info has been excluded.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Hungry for Heaven (5.10d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: I didn't find the gear at the start to be that difficult. It tapers down, which means large nut, pink/red tri-cam, or .5 camalot. I went with the .5 and still had plenty of space for the upper jam right above the roof. The route is hard, more like an 11.


Location: Nevada : Popcorn : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Is that some massive caulk gun? Wtf?


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - Main Wall : New Creature (5.11b/c) : Comment : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: Hell yeah! Thanks a lot Nathan. Having done that route before the upgrade, I can tell you it is much appreciated.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Windy Boulders : Windy Boulders North : ... : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: Thanks! It is for my lady. Unfortunately the sites I have been looking at for Teeki don't sell tops anymore, especially not like that one.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Sly Corner (Naysayer) (5.11) : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: I thought the .5 was great. A few of the lobes were locked behind some granite nubs. Great addition that i will surely repeat.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Sly Corner (Naysayer) (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: I thought the gear was good. The jug at the roof made it easy to figure that piece out. The direct finish is the way to go. Really enjoyed the pump at the last two bolts. No reason this should get an avoid rating. How about the #5 Rock on Inner Peace? Classic NC trad, this one is easier to place.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Windy Boulders : Windy Boulders North : ... : Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: What top is that?


Location: NC : Big Green : Paralleling (5.10- PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: I would give the finish to P1 an R rating, not PG13. A fall near the anchor of P1 over the bulge would have consequences to your ankles or the back of your head. The falls on the rest of the route would just result in slides.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola Direct Start (5.11a)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: I would suggest placing a nut below the first bolt at the base of the flake instead of a cam. A nut will be more likely to hold and not break the flake. Don't place pro that relies on expansion to hold when it is in something loose or questionable.


Location: NC : Cedar Rock
By: TomCaldwell When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: +1 for a good guide book. I left the NC Select book at home yesterday and just brought this new one from Mike. It was more than what I needed to have a successful day in the area. If you plan to spend a good amount of time in the Pisgah area, this guide is a must.


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