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Whiskey-a-Go-Go


Member Since: Apr 16, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tom Mulholland been climbing?










Contributions


All 261 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 33 | Posts 192 | Stars 14 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Gram (5.10d) : Photo
By: Tom Mulholland When: Jan 16, 2013

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Comments: This picture made my hands sweat.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: I prefer the start straight up off the eroded ground. It may add another cruxy move, but I don't think it's harder than .12d, at least by DL standards. And of the three people I've seen on this route (Dillon Colon, Erol, and myself), we all did the ground start.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Tom Mulholland When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: Did anybody link pitches? Like P3 and P4, or P4 and P5? Maybe with a 70m?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Great Tower : Steak Sauce (5.12+ R)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: This just feels impossible! Plus, that high RH finger lock is really painful.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Sometime Direct (5.10d R) : Photo
By: Tom Mulholland When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Damn, this picture brings back good memories!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Sometime Direct (5.10d R)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: One of the most fun falls I've ever taken.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bloody Mary (5.8)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: I'll try to get on it this weekend (weather permitting) and get some pics so the debate can continue! Should be VERY photogenic (I think there are good views from the top).


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bloody Mary (5.8)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: I led the face, but not cleanly. A small brassy shortens the runout, but even without that piece it's probably pg13. I stayed on the face all the way up, probably 12b or 12c, finishing on the highest point of the tower, a big block, which is not top-rope-able.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bloody Mary (5.8)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Has anybody ever climbed the tower on top of Bloody Mary? There is a tower with a large crack full of chock stones in the corner, and that corner is where a lead of Bloody Mary usually finishes. I'm talking about climbing the face of this tower (I believe it's a South face), staying a few feet left of that corner. When pulling the Bloody Mary roof, the climber traverses a bit to the right to reach that part of the tower. Alternatively, a climber finishing Prime Rib will be staring right at t... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Swillbillies (5.7)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Sep 27, 2011

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Comments: I think Josh Schmale led this (I followed) a few weeks ago. Not a very impressive climb, but it has a few easy jams for the beginning crack climber.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Son of Great Chimney Direct (5.12a)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Just try to find that offset nut in one of the lieback flakes. It should protect the cruxiest moves.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: Tom Mulholland When: Sep 9, 2011

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Comments: This move is actually quite a bit easier done differently. If you start with your right hand where Kris's left is in the picture, you can use your left on a bomber undercling right next to that spot, then go right hand to the lip without such a stretch.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Son of Great Chimney Direct (5.12a)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Sep 9, 2011

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Comments: For me, the route goes up from the crux of the 11a, pulling the bulge. There's one jug ledge at the top of the bulge, then a long reach to a thin crimp allows you to reset your feet for another long reach to the upper horizontal, which has 2 decent crimps in it. From these, you can place a #1 C4 and a nut in the blocks on the arete (without using the holds on the arete), then move up into that layback. A bit higher, in the second layback of the upper crux, you can place a bomber offset ... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b PG13)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: Led the direct. Have to disagree again, Nick. I'd give it an X, as both cams I got (yellow C3 and #1 Met) were shallow enough to maybe pull. Though maybe the crashpads brought it down to R...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The End (5.10a R)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: Ok, well if X is for suspect gear, then X it is!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The End (5.10a R)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: I give it an R. You can place a good brassie once on top of the prow, which should protect the crux moves. A fall would be bad, but probably not to the ground. Ball Nuts work well behind a sketchy flake to protect? the last hard move.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b PG13) : Photo
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: I still can't actually find that piece on the route! I really want to lead this, but the moves are so insecure. Are crash pads Rhoads-approved?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Bird-Foot Buttress : American Dream Roof (5.10d)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: Onsighted the route on Saturday. So fun and exciting! Some hero moves at the top.

The direct is only a pinch harder, but I would give it an R rating. This is the first time I had to ask my belayer to be ready to jump off a boulder. Head-pointed that one...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Morning After (5.10d PG13)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 17, 2011

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Comments: I agree with Terry. There are some burly full-extension moves if you head directly up the seam and avoid the right-side arete. Got the OS of this last week after climbing up and down the first 10 feet several times.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 17, 2011

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Comments: Do Moondust too! A steeper, shorter version of Sometime Direct. One of the better protected 5.11s in the park.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Moondust (5.10c/d)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 7, 2011

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Comments: This route is awesome! Best climb at this wall. And, probably one of the best-protected 11's at the Lake. I didn't feel like it was contrived at all (at least by DL standards). You just climb only using the crack and then the face, no need to backstep. Also, didn't have any laybacks like Andy (it's a crack, Andy, no laybacks). Feels similar to Sometime Direct, albeit shorter and burlier. Would be a DL classic if it were twice as long.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Sometime Direct (5.10d R) : Photo
By: Tom Mulholland When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: At this point, the pump clock has already started ringing and tunnel vision is at full constriction. What's the best idea when you're pumped out and run out? Grab the worst hold you can find.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : D'Arcy's Buttress : Darkness At Noon (5.2)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: No way is this 5.2.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Big Deal (5.10a PG13)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: Pro is not so good on this. I don't recommend an onsight lead. I tried, then bailed onto Full Stop. The crux is protected by a #4 BD C4 in the elephant ear 12 feet or more below. Part-way through the crux, the only gear I could fish in (even while hanging) was a #2 brassie.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Hang Dog (5.10)
By: Tom Mulholland When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: Pulling that roof was really fun! Felt hard because of recent rain and hot humid day, but really cool movement. Only used 2 holds in the crack: one bad finger lock in the crack to stabilize (able to place one good and one marginal nut from a stance just over the roof), and one sidepull in the crack to reach up high to a rail. Then, the sweet right-handed block pinch and some easier moves to the top. Throw in a bomber .75 C4, or skip it, as these moves are rather easy (just don't fall...)


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