Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : XTZ (5.8)
By: Tom Lausch When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bonus points if done as an off-chimney. Fun thrutch with bolts.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Blame it on my ADD (5.9)
By: Tom Lausch When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. First two bolts have good clipping stances. Great climb for hot days as it is in the shade.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Tonto (5.5)
By: Tom Lausch When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb for beginner leader. No need for anything bigger than a #3. Two slings and rings on the rap tree. Bring your own those two are getting tatty.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Running Man Wall : Friction Face Panty Waist (5.8+)
By: Tom Lausch When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best slab climbs in RR. Sustained hut doable for the grade. Either the closer anchor or the higher up one. The route is the same. Must do.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : Shere Khan (aka A Fraction ... (5.10b)
By: Tom Lausch When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is between 1st and 2nd bolt. Bring a 70m rope. Great climb for breaking into the. 10s. Very physical,
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Scent of the Ultraman (5.7)
By: Tom Lausch When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful with the first two bolts. After that your good to go. Getting to the first two bolts is easier climbing but mentally tough. Amazing climb.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu : Mugu Rock : H: Crack (5.8)
By: Tom Lausch When: Dec 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awkward. Hands and worse fingers. Easy lieback.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu : Mugu Rock : C: Crack (5.10)
By: Tom Lausch When: Dec 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Feet were fine. Only problem is the shitty paint. Worth a shot if u have any crack skill. Love the rattly fingers.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Senior Moment (5.5)
By: Tom Lausch When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. With more climbing it will clean up. There is some slings and rap rings at the top but dont be fooled. Rap from Sleeper. 60M rope will not cut the mustard for the rao down. Doubles.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: Tom Lausch When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is an easy lead. The second pitch is amazing. An easy hand crack that swalows gear the whole time. Also plenty of good stances for putting on pro. Watch out thouhg, a 60M rope will just barely get the job done. The rap off to the right with double ropes and easy downclimbing provided to be no problem at all. A must do route
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : The Wallow (5.7)
By: Tom Lausch When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: How would you possibly protect this thing? I had a 4 big bro and only could use it at the lower section. Also the anchors were in a horrible spot. Not even worth doing.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Waterstreak (5.8 R)
By: Tom Lausch When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.10A is the only good way to climb this. Straight up the chute with no using the side. Good friction all the way. Clipping stances were good. But dont miss the 3rd bolt or you will end up in the hospital.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Chips and Salsa (5.3)
By: Tom Lausch When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some wide gear 5,6 would have better protected the chimmney on pitch 2. If you slipped your looking at hitting the cave floor. But more heady than difficult.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Four Brothers : Family Jewels (5.7)
By: Tom Lausch When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful on lead. The lower section has a decent runout when rounding the corner. The rest can be sewn up using small nuts or mirco cams. Overall great climb.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Four Brothers : Catalepsy (5.6)
By: Tom Lausch When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Off width section is tons of fun. A nuber 11 hex sideways back as far as you can get will protect the first section of it. The second one needs a #4 Camalot or larger. Everything after that can be done using a regular rack. Good pro the entire way.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Four Brothers : Gravel Pit (5.4)
By: Tom Lausch When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy lead for a new beginner. Plenty of gear throughout the climb. Top section can be slightly difficult for the grade though. Overall a good lead for a new beginner with good moves at the top.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Step-Across (5.6 R)
By: Tom Lausch When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one is a head check. Not much pro for the top section. The mantle into the middle was comitting and required good focus.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Dihedral (5.5)
By: Tom Lausch When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Make sure to clip the #1 Bd that someone got stuck in the crack on the right about half way up. Free pro! But good luck getting it out without ruining it. Might as well leave it in my opinion. Great climb though
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Right of the Eye (5.4)
By: Tom Lausch When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loved this climb. Pulled the roof and found that to be strenous. I would say around 5.7. Overall a great climb and good pro all the way.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Unnamed 5.5 (5.5)
By: Tom Lausch When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That reach for the second ledge was strenous. Be careful on leads as pulling up to the ledges puts you in easy fall territory onto the previous ledge.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Curving Crack (5.8)
By: Tom Lausch When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good lead. Swallows gear all the way up. Save your larger cams for near the top. Pulling the top 5' as a layback increases the difficulty. Good climb overall.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Brinton's Direct (5.8)
By: Tom Lausch When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch out for wasps on Brintons Buttress. Was just there on 04/07/12 and they were out and about.
|
RSS Feed
