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Todd M.

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More About Todd Drop down
Member Since
Jul 1, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
0 Points DetailsDrop down
Likes Trad, Sport, Tr, Gym
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Ticks View All 12

5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
● Ceasefire
Feb 11, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. I agree with V6 on a rope... great route, satisfying finish, interesting movement, just minus a star for length, but a great route to work on when it's rainy and you can't do some of the longer routes around. I'll settle on 12c, because the crux is quite bouldery and harder than most 12c cruxes, even though endurance isn't really a factor on this one at all. But most grade comparison charts would align a V6 boulder with a 12c route anyway, or thereabouts. 7 goes total on this one... 2 on day 1, and sent on my 5th go of day 2 after refining some footwork beta for the crux move. Usually wouldn't be able to give a project 5 goes in a day!! Ended up using beta closer to Ben's, but with a few tweaks to fit my body better.
Sport
Willamette Valley > Cane Creek > Moondial
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
● The Left Hand of Darkness
Nov 29, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. I think 4 goes in all -- this route is REALLY good, but shares the anchor clip with Lathe, which I don't love because I still can't find a way to be relaxed in that stance.
Sport
Willamette Valley > Cane Creek > Moondial
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
● The Lathe of Heaven
Oct 22, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Probably in the neighborhood of 6 or 7 total attempts on this one... including falling with slack out to clip the chains before actually getting the send. I still feel the chain clip is the redpoint crux of this route... a harder 12a, I think.
Sport
Willamette Valley > Cane Creek > Moondial
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
● My Neighbor Totoro
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Scoped it out after going up Sky Bison, and got some beta from Micah and Sean before giving it the flash attempt.
Sport
Willamette Valley > Lookout Point > Madrone Coves
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
● Sky Bison
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Sport
Willamette Valley > Lookout Point > Madrone Coves
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 6
● Mac
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. 3rd go.
Sport
Willamette Valley > Lookout Point > Pet Cemetary Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Ceasefire Willamette Valley > Cane Creek > Moondial
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Feb 11, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. I agree with V6 on a rope... great route, satisfying finish, interesting movement, just minus a star for length, but a great route to work on when it's rainy and you can't do some of the longer routes around. I'll settle on 12c, because the crux is quite bouldery and harder than most 12c cruxes, even though endurance isn't really a factor on this one at all. But most grade comparison charts would align a V6 boulder with a 12c route anyway, or thereabouts. 7 goes total on this one... 2 on day 1, and sent on my 5th go of day 2 after refining some footwork beta for the crux move. Usually wouldn't be able to give a project 5 goes in a day!! Ended up using beta closer to Ben's, but with a few tweaks to fit my body better.
● The Left Hand of Darkness Willamette Valley > Cane Creek > Moondial
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Nov 29, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. I think 4 goes in all -- this route is REALLY good, but shares the anchor clip with Lathe, which I don't love because I still can't find a way to be relaxed in that stance.
● The Lathe of Heaven Willamette Valley > Cane Creek > Moondial
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Oct 22, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Probably in the neighborhood of 6 or 7 total attempts on this one... including falling with slack out to clip the chains before actually getting the send. I still feel the chain clip is the redpoint crux of this route... a harder 12a, I think.
● My Neighbor Totoro Willamette Valley > Lookout Point > Madrone Coves
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Scoped it out after going up Sky Bison, and got some beta from Micah and Sean before giving it the flash attempt.
● Sky Bison Willamette Valley > Lookout Point > Madrone Coves
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
● Mac Willamette Valley > Lookout Point > Pet Cemetary Wall
 6
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. 3rd go.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 1 1 1
Last Year 7 7 5
5 Years 8 8 6
All Time 12 12 8

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