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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : South Mountain : Pima Canyon Area : ... : Locked and Loaded (V5 PG13)
By: Toby Wehler When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure why this boulder problem traverses left after getting settled on the face crimps....this thing naturally climbs straight up. I fiddled with the traverse a bit, but didn't want to fall on the boulders behind, so didn't climb the 'actual' line. Cool first move.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : We're Not in Kansas Anymore (5.11c)
By: Toby Wehler When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route looked pretty sweet, but I couldn't figure out the sequence to get to the second bolt and my fingers couldn't take anymore. I will be back.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : The Good Witch (5.4)
By: Toby Wehler When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool to see a nice bolted 5.4...black streak in the wall is pretty sweet.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : South Mountain : Pima Canyon Area : ... : Two Scoops (V3)
By: Toby Wehler When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wasn't sure with the description if this boulder problem goes straight up from the crimp and tops out (which is what I did) or if it follows the crack up and left and then tops out (seems the most likely line). Anyone have the answer, or know the FAist?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : South Mountain : Pima Canyon Area : ... : Wheat Thin (V2)
By: Toby Wehler When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got a little sketched on this topout...it wasn't that hard, just a little worried bout holds breaking (they didn't).
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : South Mountain : Pima Canyon Area : ... : Outer Limits (V0+)
By: Toby Wehler When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought the topout was tough on this one, so I wouldn't be comfortable sending a V0 climber up this thing..just MO
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : South Mountain : Pima Canyon Area : ... : Chimney Sweep (V0-)
By: Toby Wehler When: Feb 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the Karabin guide (it's in the car and I'm lazy) said this was a face to arete climb. Makes sense to chimney given the crumbly rock.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : South Mountain : Pima Canyon Area : ... : Varicose Vein (V0)
By: Toby Wehler When: Feb 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure what the difference between this line and Pinch Hitter is...I couldn't really see two independent lines. Maybe starting on the good crimp/flakes and going straight up vs going left? I'll take a pic next time I'm there and maybe someone can enlighten me.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pigeon (5.11b R)
By: Toby Wehler When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Happy to see this one listed as an 11 on here...after I fell for the second time (TR of course) at the crux, I was cursing what I thought was a classic DL sandbag. Cool and fun route. Impressive leads!
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Barrel Boulders : Photo
By: Toby Wehler When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Helpful beta pic...I had parked in the wrong spot and wandered for a while, but was checking out Open Season shortly after finding this pic. Pulled off 7 ticks total walking to and from the boulders.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - North Woods : Hollywood and Vines : Sasquatch (5.8)
By: Toby Wehler When: Jul 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, though I thought the 5.6 to the left (route #8 in the latest guidebook) was more fun....both worthwhile. both routes were very dirty.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Double Chimney : Smoke Stack (5.9)
By: Toby Wehler When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The most fun route at this crag. Wasn't sure where it started (didn't have my phone), so climbed it starting in dihedral. Will go back to lead this one.
I agree, tri-cams and long webbing to sling the tree for TR anchor.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Misery Rocks : Wailing Wall (5.10c)
By: Toby Wehler When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The middle section of a jug flake not too high off of the ground (before getting into the crux) seemed a bit loose when I grabbed it my first go. Second time around I used the lower section of that flake which seemed solid, not to mention juggier (is that a word?).
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Dungeon Wall : Dungeon Wall Crack (5.7)
By: Toby Wehler When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also used the pod for gear, but still ran that section to the horizontal twice before lead. lots of bees, but they weren't very active. seemed easier than other DL 5.7s.
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Location: MN : Robinson Park (Sandstone) : rock climbs : Diagonals Wall : 06) FBBMEAJMFFAMEUFA (5.8)
By: Toby Wehler When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hated this one at first, but by the time i finished, i came around a bit. very dirty/sandy, but sorta thought provoking...seemed harder than 5.8 for some reason
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