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Fear and Loathing.


Member Since: Aug 30, 2010
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Toby Butterfield


Point Rank: # 2,571
Total Points: 196
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Toby Butterfield been climbing?










Contributions


All 819 | Routes 5 | Areas 2 | Photos 12 | Page Improvments | Comments 56 | Posts 170 | Stars 334 | Ratings 240
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Catwalk Cliff : Catalyst (5.12b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Also called Child Abuse in the Watt's book.

Having the draws hanging really helps on this one.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Heresy (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: I once saw a guy trying to stick clip the chains on this.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Superratic Pillar : Great White Behemoth (5.12a/b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: This thing kicked my teeth in harder than any other 12b I jumped on, including Happiness. Powerful!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: The rock might look kind of chossy but it feels bomber to me. Absolutely worth the hike to get away from folks on the weekend--the formation is really cool looking and the routes are very aesthetic, imo. They have good movement to back up their looks, as well!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Born Again (5.11+)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: Guidebook calls this 11+/12-. I'd weigh in on it at 11c, but one of the girls I was with struggled way more than I'd expect her to on an 11c, so I'm gonna call it height dependent and leave it at that!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : July Jihad (5.12b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: I definitely felt like the crux was a move from a tiny crimp up to a pinch right after you come out around the roof. Lovely climb, though, and unlike many others actually has a clipping stance for the anchors up in the churt.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Joy of Heresy (5.11d)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: There's a point on this route where I clipped from a mono, stared directly at a fossil the size of my forearm right at eye level, then reached up and grabbed another mono.

Stellar movement, stellar rock, stellar position. DO IT!

And do July Jihad while you're up there!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : World Domination : Captain Insano (5.11d)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: The holds on this are definitely not all jugs. Probably not even half of them are jugs! Great climb though.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Vitamin I (5.11)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I'm hesitant to rate this because it's in the wrong area and I'm not sure we're all talking about the same climb. I'd say Vitamin I (one or two routes left of Acid Mother Temple, climbs up some flakes on the lower section then a roof on jugs) is 11b, since it's a bit easier than the Face Melter Roof. Very nice climb though--not exactly classic but good.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Wall of Denial : Save The Best For Last (5.11)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: This route no longer exists due to rockfall.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Chaos Buttress : Time Machine Yogi (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Aug 18, 2012

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Comments: This is worthy. A little more varied and harder to read than B-1 Bomber Dude. Bolts are spacey by Tensleep standards, but the climbing is good -- get to it!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Ring of Fire (5.11d)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: While I disagree that this could be a good onsight--the crux is incredibly cryptic--if you put in the work to figure out the moves it climbs really well. Lovely route.

Be very discriminating in your choice of holds near the crux, there's a lot of worthless crap up there in addition to the few holds that are juuuuust good enough.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Magnetism (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: While I can see this route becoming vastly easier once you have the beta dialed, the lower crux is quite sequencey and the long sustained nature of the upper section can really wear you down if you don't do things just so. I actually think that, in contrast to routes like Free Willie which are obviously soft, that Animal Magnetism felt to me more like 11d while I was attempting to onsight it.

Regardless of the grade this is an amazing climb and absolutely worth getting after!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Mists of Avalon (5.10a)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Route still has some spinning bolts as of today. 2nd bolt from the top is especially bad; probably just needs a wrench to tighten it, but I didn't have one with me.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Pillar of Society (5.12a)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: How in the heck do you start this thing?! I spent five minutes just trying to get off the ground! The handholds are there, but the feet start a few feet off the ground...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: While the crack climbing is easy, the moves near the top, especially the final layback and moves on the jugs and into the last finger crack, would warrant a 5.12a grade at most sport crags. I know grades are stout at the creek and a lot of people who climb here are crushers, but I think this is a fair albeit slightly soft 5.12.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Agreed that this is considerably harder than 5.8 by my usual standards. Just be advised that towers have their own standards of grading! Beautiful route. #5 Camalot was perfect for getting through the offwidth--there are some footholds inside the offwidth you can use to get the thing set, and then use it as a point of aid to get into a nice secure position if you're a punter like me.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: If rapping with a single 70, you'll wind up downclimbing a ramp that is VERY exposed at the end of the very first rappel. Probably 5.5-5.6 if you're going up, but felt 5.7ish going down. You're not above a ledge or anything either -- mess up and you're 300 feet down and dead. I found this extremely unpleasant. Not a recommended rap route with a single 70 m rope IMO.

You could conceivably leave your ends un-knotted and rap off the end of your rope to the ledge with the rap station, but that woul... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: Crap. Accidentally climbed this the other day... didn't realize it was off limits. I don't recall the plaque for the Fremont Culture Dwelling mentioning the climb -- maybe it could be updated?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tube Steaks Tomorrow (5.10+)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: Seconded, not sandy at all.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: First bolt of the upper bolt ladder still missing. Felt like 5.7-5.8 moves at most to reach the second bolt; not hard. However, yesterday someone fell before reaching said second bolt and grounded on the belay ledge below them. Had to be helicoptered to a trauma center in Salt Lake.

Be careful out there folks. If you have any concerns, bring a stick clip. To be frank, though, if the 5.7ish moves to that bolt are difficult for you, actually gaining the summit tower is going to be a bad... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: A huge chunk of this pulled off yesterday just above the first bolt. There is a bit of the rotten block remaining which presently has a giant X on it. What is left of that block seems OK to me, but it may not be. You can avoid using it as a hand, but it's tough to avoid stepping on it, so be cautious.

Doesn't change the grade at all, though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: Like a harder version of Glitter Gulch. Fairly sustained, the climb just gets harder as you go up and the wall tips back. The holds are all fairly good if you can get the correct body position; like Glitter Gulch the abundance of large feet will save you from the pump!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Fast Moving Train (5.11c/d)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: The route isn't too bad as a top rope problem, although the anchors are in a terrible place. It is god-awful to lead, though, because there are absolutely no clipping stances. Pretty unpleasant, honestly, and certainly not 11a.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : Twin Cracks Area : Snooze Ya Lose (5.11a)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: I heard someone today talking about trundling a block off of this route recently. I had toproped it a year or so ago, and I have to say, it felt substantially harder than I remembered. I'd be interested to hear other opinions on the grade of this route from folks who have climbed it recently.


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