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Member Since: Jun 1, 2002
Last Visit: May 28, 2009
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Point Rank: # 1,691
Total Points: 350
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has tobias been climbing?










Contributions


All 112 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 11 | Stars 19 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Not One Of Us (5.12a)
By: tobias When: Jun 27, 2004

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Comments: Michael-- I did it today the same as it sounds you did-- traversing left to the arete while balanced on a right side pull fairly high up (after beginning with the face climbing you mention above the slab.) You end up with your chest pretty much on that 3rd (?) bolt, and your left foot on that one decent step right on the arete. I suppose you could attempt to haul straight up the arete from below, but that would require a bit more power.... As is, I enjoyed the moves and sequence coming in from t... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Shakespearean Theatre &... : Shakespur (5.11a)
By: tobias When: May 19, 2004

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Comments: fun and classic castlewood... worth a coupla laps


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Vulture Walls : Pay Attention (5.10d)
By: tobias When: May 3, 2004

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Comments: 5.10d/11a??? I found this to be tougher and certainly more sustained than Scandinavian Dreams, so I would think it merits and 11b or c. Great climb, whatever it is. The bottom is of questionable quality, but the rest is stellar....


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Empire of the Air (5.11a)
By: tobias When: Feb 27, 2004

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Comments: regarding the first anonymous comment--I'd agree after a couple more years' experience that the last pitch is not necessarily 10b... I've been climbing more in the Platte lately, which influences me towards downgrading the pitch--9 or 9+, maybe. Part of the head challenge at the time was certainly the exposure, little (no) evidence as to prior passage of other climbers, and the resulting fleeting thoughts as to the quality of the rock as I moved up under the roof. Finally, all the number rating ... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Playground : No Wimp Situation (5.11c)
By: tobias When: Jan 17, 2004

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Comments: First bolt is up there, alright. I thought it was a stretch to get to it, and therefore a bit sketchy. Crux is tough...


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Playground : Silmarillion (5.11b)
By: tobias When: Jan 17, 2004

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Comments: This is a three-star route in my book--a great sport route, and a bit burly for the rating.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Beta Slave (5.10c)
By: tobias When: Jan 2, 2004

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Comments: Cool and varied climb! One of the funnest in the area... kind of zig-zags to the top (especially if you traverse far right 20 ft up...)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Natural Selection (5.11a/b)
By: tobias When: Jun 28, 2003

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Comments: ...way up there is right! (to the first bolt). Options for those that don't want to risk it on dirty rock: a) bring a small cam (3/4 inch)-- there's a placement in a vertical short crack that faces east, or b) climb up to the first bolt of Nordwand, clip it with a long sling and traverse right to Natural Selection's first bolt, then come back and unclip from Nordwand and you're on your way.

A few other bolt placements seemed off to me (not complaining, just saying). It's pretty run out in two ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Footloose (5.10a)
By: tobias When: Jun 28, 2003

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Comments: There are two rap anchors (four bolts with chains or rings) in the same place for this and "First Impressions", so don't worry if someone's headed up the other route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10)
By: tobias When: Jun 26, 2003

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Comments: WARNING... there's a big block (100-150 lbs?) just down and to the left of the anchors on this one that looks like it's barely hanging in there.... The cracks on different sides of it are rotted-- the situation wigged me out a bit. Be nice if someone could clean this on out of there, but due to the height and possible other dangers it could be a dangerous project. If it comes down on a climber, s/he'd be toast... My partner tapped it and said it sounded loose; I didn't even want to tou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: tobias When: Jun 22, 2003

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Comments: There's a DANGER: LOOSE BLOCKS warning on "Heavy Weather" that probably applies to this climb as well. May want to check it out...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: tobias When: Jun 15, 2003

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Comments: ...don't know about this "almost classic" stuff: it's a sure-nuff full-on classic in my book. All pitches are way good! There's a lost cam half-way up pitch 4-- wouldn't bother with it unless you just wanna add to your pump. The walk off to the north, as mentioned above, is straight-forward and probably quicker than messing with rappels.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Lucky Strike (5.11c R)
By: tobias When: Jun 8, 2003

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Comments: Funky route-- more reminiscent of Clear Creek lines than what I know of Boulder Canyon. The crux is traversing right into a bouldery layback problem about 60 feet up. I cruised right by the second bolt in this section in my desire to get on solid ground, then had a helluva time reaching behind my right leg to clip the sucker. That section and just above are quite slopey. A fun route; worth doing for variety's sake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Fading Light (5.9)
By: tobias When: Jun 8, 2003

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Comments: 5.9? Rossiter has this listed as 10a, I'm pretty sure. I thought this lead was a tad stiffer than either Xanadu or Chockstone. I also recommend the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy, but don't bother belaying if you've set the right slings. Do it up in one pitch to the top, or belay from atop the roof.

I didn't see the fixed belay/rap station mentioned above, though there is a single, weathered, blue sling to the left beneath the roof that draws the climber out left instead of up right. Not su... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: tobias When: Jun 8, 2003

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Comments: Finding the climb: (someone asked)... It's near the top west side of the ridge, just before you get to Rincon wall. There are gullies on either side of this section of cliff. There are several great looking cracks in this section-- Purple Haze being one of the most aesthetic in my opinion.

P1 is the tad-easier first cousin of the first pitch of Rincon. In other words, I think it has more in common with that climb than Xanadu. (Talk about sandbag-- the first 40 feet of Rincon are rather stiff f... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: tobias When: Jun 1, 2003

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Comments: I hesitate to add anything since there's already a veritable book going on this climb, but I didn't see any mention of the variation to the second pitch. (Maybe it's a different climb?) Try traversing up left from the belay station at the end of the first pitch. After 15 feet it heads straight up a nice dihedral that will give you a little more crack time. It felt solid 5.9 to me, then lets up to 5.6ish stuff the last 30 feet to the top. Enjoy...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall
By: tobias When: May 18, 2003

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Comments: Info above is good, except it's not above Pete's Wicked....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: tobias When: Jan 4, 2003

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Comments: We also did a variation on the second pitch (see Jake's comments above). From the anchor at the top of the first pitch, continue the traverse right. There are some decent finger underclings, and you can get a medium cam in, then it heads up after about 12-15 feet. The rock seems a bit brittle here in places, and it's fairly dirty, but slam a small wire in and head up and it's worth it. You will gain an arete from which you can see your belayer again--s/he's right below you--and you can get in yo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Jolt Cola (5.12-)
By: tobias When: Jan 4, 2003

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Comments: The right variation on the lower half (11c) makes for more varied climbing--a traverse right then back left once again towards the third bolt... Watch out for a hard fast pendululum if you come off! I disagree with the route description--that there aren't many good holds--there are. And when you figure out the sequence, it goes nicely. A definite three star climb in my book!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Generation Gap (5.11a)
By: tobias When: Jan 1, 2003

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Comments: Good sunny spot in late afternoon as well.... A fun climb, turns out left after the third bolt, then back right after the fourth.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Coffin Crack (5.9)
By: tobias When: Jan 1, 2003

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Comments: Interesting route... I wasn't totally psyched about my placements lower down, though there are certainly many options for pro. I would recommend getting in a solid nut here and there; one or two of my cam placements just didn't seem a hundred percent. Fun alternative to clipping bolts, though. Alternative way past the roof would be out to the left, though to the right seems easier. Also, there's another decent trad line about 15 feet to the right that tops out through the short dihedra... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Svengali (5.10d)
By: tobias When: Dec 31, 2002

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Comments: Yeah, but they're positive enough if you trust 'em and pull hard... I like this one. Kind of like one boulder problem stacked on top of another.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Nob Job (5.10d)
By: tobias When: Dec 31, 2002

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Comments: I agree-- it certainly didn't seem 11d to me, either. Very fun route, though, it get two stars in my book...


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: tobias When: Dec 29, 2002

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Comments: That boulder DINO mentioned above is called the Phallic Voulder, I think, (though whose-ever phallus it resembles must have been the butt of more than a few jokes in his life...). Continue down the same trail another few minutes and you will see more. Explore the side trails and you stumble on great problems. Bouldering here does require a bit of bushwhacking at times, but it's a real playground. And, to the dude that was dissing the area: whatever. The area definitely does have some great sport... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : It's Miller Time (5.11a/b)
By: tobias When: Dec 29, 2002

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Comments: Huh... this one drew my blood as well! Nice little gusher, but I tried to keep it off the rock. The crux is interesting--look wide for holds....


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