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Member Since: Apr 4, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 16, 2014
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Point Rank: # 6,679
Total Points: 50
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 74 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 25 | Stars 14 | Ratings 11

Contributed Comments

 

Location: TN : Leda
By: TKHouse When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I haven't confirmed this personally, but per a post on the SCC website, parking at the main Leeda cliff (in the road pulloffs) is now reserved for emergency vehicles.

seclimbers.org/modules/Forums_...

Not sure if parking lower down the road is permitted or not. Be careful heading up or down the road, people fly through there!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Lamb's Slide (Easy Snow)
By: TKHouse When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: Lamb's Slide is in great shape right now (1/22). Climbed it on Tuesday and experienced great snow conditions and weather. There were moments of more powdery snow that would likely not arrest a fall, as well as some ice up higher, but there were always ways to move left or right and avoid it.

Kiener's was looking nice too, although I can't give specifics about the upper section as my partner and I took Clark's Arrow (or something similar to it) to the Homestretch.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Moffatt Tunnel : North-facing Wall
By: TKHouse When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: Climbed at Moffat last Saturday, the main lines are in. The mixed stuff to the left is not in yet.

Things did get a little wet on the left side, it seems as though someone is farming some mixed lines left of the main wall?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverplume & vicinity : Sniktau Falls (WI2-3)
By: TKHouse When: Jan 18, 2013

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Comments: Tried to find this place today and we also couldn't locate any kind of "dominant gully". We hiked all the way from the Loveland parking area to just before the trailhead at the next exit eastward? I presume if the falls were closer to the other exit it would be easier to just park there.

If anyone has any info about this area, it would be very helpful.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall
By: TKHouse When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: Regarding the trail to the Cibola and Valhalla end of the wall: there's definitely not a well defined start from the road. Last spring I was barely able to match a photo in the guide with a few of the big boulders by the road. After a short walk in the woods, however, a few orange ties on the trees begin to indicate a trail. Occasionally you'll run across some logs or rocks that help indicate the path as well.

It's definitely not as clean as the well packed main t wall trail, but it will save ... more >>


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Beginner's Route (5.7)
By: TKHouse When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Uncommon style at the crags in Tennessee. Well worth the grunting.

The anchor at the top (slings with no padding around a tree) is beginning to look questionable. The tree is alive but not particularly well rooted. I recommend building an anchor, belaying up the second, and traversing right about twenty feet to another set of rings.


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Ghost Dancers (5.8+)
By: TKHouse When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this today, one of my favorite climbs in Sunset park.

The craggers atlas calls the direct start a 10, and it's definitely pretty height dependent. The flakes and such to the right are, as I understand, the standard start.

This climb is absolutely phenomenal, although a hair short to be a classic. Great fun climbing with thought provoking moves and pro. I wouldn't say any part of the climb lacked adequate pro, but it definitely makes you work for it. I found a small metolius and a trica... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Blood, Sweat, and Tears (5.7 PG13)
By: TKHouse When: Dec 25, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this route last spring. Really a great route, but as far as I could tell there are few great anchoring options.

Even in terms of gear anchors, there are a few horizontals but a lot of them are pretty flaring.

The pitch features some great thought provoking moves, however. I feel as though this might be a great climb to warrant some rap anchors. I ended up having the second bring a rap line and slinging a tree a few hundred feet to the right. The traverse over to the tree had several ... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : North Ridge (5.5)
By: TKHouse When: Dec 25, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this one back in November. Was going to do some of the more standard lines but wanted to teach some more about gear placements to my follower so this seemed like the opportune route.

Finding the climb was relatively easy, you have to climb up about ten feet from the trail onto a boulder and the climb begins right in front of this.

P1 - Took the right option on the first pitch. Apparently the section to the left goes at seven, looked very fun as well. Depending on how your second climb... more >>


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Blind Date (5.7)
By: TKHouse When: Dec 10, 2011

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Comments: I feel this route doesn't see as much traffic as it deserves, perhaps because it looks wider from the ground. Definitely does not require bigger pro.

Protects easily and provides a very different experience compared to many t wall moderates. Bounces between hand crack and chimney techniques from time to time. Tons of fun. Slings around a tree at the top.

Anchors can be set to TR digital macabre by climbing Blind Date and climbing a little up and right once you're past the tree.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Wilson Regular Route (5.5 R)
By: TKHouse When: Dec 10, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this about a year ago. Really enjoyed this route and it provided a nice alternative to the busier stuff on the right side of the wall. We were the only party on this route all day.

No loose rock to my recollection.

I recall splitting the first pitch after the ramp (P1) and setting the first belay in a chimney-like feature. (P2) You turned the top of the chimney and climbed a crack up to a ledge with a big flake. Questionable rock quality and limited pro selection. Crux pitch for me, t... more >>


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek
By: TKHouse When: Dec 8, 2011

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Comments: Worth noting there's now a fantastic full-color guide to the Obed:

greenergrasspublishing.com/gui...

A great investment for any climber who frequents the area!


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Little Steps (5.7)
By: TKHouse When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: Just climbed this yesterday. A fantastic climb that deserves more traffic, even if the inside of the crack is a little wet like yesterday. As much fun or better than similarly graded routes in the Orange Blossom walls.

The tree with slings at the top appears dead and is a good distance back from the cliff edge.

Ring anchors on a climb like this would be valuable to help to reduce the impact on the trees above. Alternatively this climb has a quality crack for building toptope anchors on gear t... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Prow (5.4)
By: TKHouse When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: The best way out of the amphitheater! I recommend climbing pitch two on the slabs to the right instead of on the far left if you're in the mood for some more spice. Pro is there on occasion, no moves harder then 5.4.

Had another party simul-climbing this to my left as I led it, no problems whatsoever.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Daddy (5.6)
By: TKHouse When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Fantastic climb. The description is correct, pitches two and five are clearly the best. Pitch three was quite a disappointment, only two or three grade five moves, no need to protect. I ran a little short trying to link pitches two and three with my 60m rope.

I belayed just below the corner after pitch four, not sure if this is the typical belay spot but was very secure. Pitch four is actually pretty good rock as well, I took the left face and enjoyed it. There's a fixed cam (purple metolius?)... more >>


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset South : Blonde Ambition (5.7+)
By: TKHouse When: Aug 12, 2011

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Comments: BETA-HATERS BEWARE:

I managed to plug several pieces in the first 20 feet or so, all smaller cams.

From about 20 feet to 30 feet up, however, there is no gear. Not hard terrain, but you don't want to slip up or you're taking a little ride on the slab.

Phenomenal route, the crack is great fun, it's a constant 5.7 with few good rests and even fewer jams, almost all face business. Great fun.

"Best 7 in the state" according to the Craggers Atlas..? I still love Jay Walker, but that may be my T-... more >>


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Slip Stream (5.7+)
By: TKHouse When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: Although the start might be a bit of a challenge, 5.6 would be fairly consistent with other Chattanooga crag ratings (T-Wall comes to mind...).

Very well protected, great climb for the beginner leader to practice some rope drag management as well.

Take it all the way to the top as well, fantastic view!


Location: TN : Leda
By: TKHouse When: May 12, 2010

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Comments: Since Dr. Topo went down, I was wondering if anyone had the .pdf guidebook mentioned in the area description. I did some searching and couldn't find it elsewhere online. I've got the DCA, but it would be nice to see some updated info on lower Leda.

Thanks!


Location: TN : King's Bluff
By: TKHouse When: Apr 21, 2010

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Comments: This message is in response to an incident at the Bluff last weekend in which a climber decked from about 25 feet up, rolled down the river bank, and had to be carried and taken out by boat.

King's Bluff has the highest concentration of low-grade sport in Tennessee. This provides an outstanding opportunity for new leaders to learn the basic skills of leading sport climbs. Because of this, King's Bluff attracts a lot of new climbers who may or may not have the necessary gear or understanding of... more >>


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Coco Puffs (5.7)
By: TKHouse When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Fun climb to "go nuts" on. Ditch the cams! A set of stoppers is all you need for a light and enjoyable trad climb at South Clear.

The hollow flake at the top seems to be very near the point of breaking off, although I'm told its been that way for a few years. Ensure your belayer has a helmet on and is very attentive during the last few moves.