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Member Since: Nov 3, 2010
Last Visit: Sep 2, 2014
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Total Points: 41
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has tinyonion been climbing?










Contributions


All 52 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 5 | Stars 17 | Ratings 14

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Left) : Feetal Rearrangement (5.8)
By: tinyonion When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: first bolt is an old, rusted out, button head that's been bent and pulled out about a 1/4" or so... could probably stand to be replaced.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : The Fun Factory : Industrial Bliss (5.10a)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 12, 2013

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Comments: As of 1/11/13 there is a spinner at the anchors. Don't know if it needs to just be tightened or if it needs a replacement.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Ana Mountains : Ortega Falls : Fingers (5.9)
By: tinyonion When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Fun lead. Lots of gear placements. Eats up small cams, a few larger placements after the runout section between the 5.9 finger crack and the 5.7 upper section. Upper crack takes med to small cams. Three bolt anchor at the top.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : The Fun Factory : Fun Factory (5.7)
By: tinyonion When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: I went lower with my feet in the seam near the bottom of the beta picture and my hands near the bolt line. It's a pretty solid way to do it but not as secure as going up with the underclings I would imagine. There is also a glued in bridge between the third and fourth bolt that should probably not be stepped on.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Hump or Dump (5.8+ PG13)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, does the top crux go at 8+ or is that just the bottom? Edit: the new guidebook calls this climb a 10a... what's the fair grade?


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Hump or Dump (5.8+ PG13)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: Out of curiosity, where is it pg13 for the pro? Does the hand crack not take good gear?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: tinyonion When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: Benjamin,

It's trad if it was done in the traditional ethic; bolts from the ground up on lead. A rap bolted but sparse bolting would still be sport. Even if there was a potential for groundfall because the bolter didn't put in enough bolts.

That said, I have no idea if the original was rap bolted or not but it's a trad crag so it's likely that it was done on lead. there is an 11 around the corner that was done on lead. Anyone know how this one was bolted?


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Shantytown Swing (5.6)
By: tinyonion When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: I agree that the direct start is very fun. I plugged a #3 C4 in for fun but you really don't need it and I doubt that it would stop you from decking. The moves to gain the ledge are not more than 5.6+ maybe 5.7 but I doubt it. Good fun though and a good route for people getting used to outside lead. Though the 5.3 around the corner next to wildrose is probably a better intro if it's a first lead.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: tinyonion When: Jul 9, 2011

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Comments: Very legit tacos here. Get the carne and mix the two types of salsa!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Child's Play (5.10c R)
By: tinyonion When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Condition Report: When I was there a month ago the bolts at the top were so loose that you could twist both off with just your fingers. I would advise against setting up an anchor or lowering off these.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Congratulations (5.10d R)
By: tinyonion When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Condition Report: When I was there a month ago the bolts at the top were so loose that you could twist both off with just your fingers. I would advise against setting up an anchor or lowering off these.