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Aiding.


Member Since: Dec 16, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact teece303


Point Rank: # 1,529
Total Points: 375
Last Year: 244
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Contributions


All (489) | Routes | Areas | Photos (70) | Comments (25) | Posts (230) | Stars (128) | Ratings (36)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Pack the Walls (5.6)
By: teece303 When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: This route has two bolts at the top, with quicklinks. One of the bolts is a a spinner.

It overhangs by a few feet, which is surprising when you look at it (but watch the rope hang, it does not contact the rock at all).

It is harder than 5.6 -- 5.8 I'd say, at least by modern standard. The crack will eat up protection. The crux is down low.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Jackalopes and Preachers (5.7 R)
By: teece303 When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Either your photo is wrong (not showing the route) or this has to be just to the LEFT of Ada Jam. Or I'm confused about where "Ada Jam" and "Are You Experienced" are located, because it sure looks like both of them are in the alcove to the right in this photo.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Bumblies For Breakfast (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: I led this one a long time ago (with 5 bolts). It was spicy. Still pretty proud I did it, because 10a was real climbing for me then as a youngster, I need to get back and try this thing again.

Note: there are 10a moves way past bolts on this route, at least by sport climbing standards. Phenomenal route, with some good rests, but be ready to pull 10a moves 8-10 feet beyond your last bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : ... : Photo
By: teece303 When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: I fell off right before the anchors on this one, too.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: teece303 When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: I love Castlewood, and I climb here all the time.

I think it's worth telling the uninitiated: many climbs here are quite sand-bagged.

I've climbed 5.8s here that would be called 5.10a in many other areas. There are many crags where I have a good chance of onsighting 5.10a -- in Castlewood, I have almost no chance of doing that.

There are 5.7 trad climbs that have spit me off here -- the only other place I've climbed 5.7 that hard is Eldo.

Maybe I just suck at Cobblestone pulling, but I doubt... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Bag of Tricks aka Flake (5.9+)
By: teece303 When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Sandbagging is more or less the name of the game in Castlewood. With a couple of exceptions, every climb I've done here is sandbagged -- especially so on the bolted climbs, and a lot of the top ropes.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Mark Hamill's Face aka Jack... (5.9) : Photo
By: teece303 When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Luckily I wasn't wearing my stupid hat.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Purposefully Put In (5.7) : Photo
By: teece303 When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Is that the line? The other beta photo shows it going up the lame crack to the right of the big undercling.

We TR-Ed a variation of this line (same bottom, finish to the new anchors), but I thought we were sharing a lot less of the route Purposefully Put In than your photo indicates,


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Mark Hamill's Face aka Jack... (5.9) : Photo
By: teece303 When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt is really low. We thought about removing it, but given that the crux comes early, we'll probably I leave it. On the first lead, a hold broke just past the second bolt, and the first bolt really helped to soften the catch on very little rope.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Mark Hamill's Face aka Jack... (5.9)
By: teece303 When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Locker got the first ascent on this one, I got the first lead. Locker bolted it, I belayed.

It's a fun line and harder than it looks (at the bottom).

I can't remember what name we decided on: Mark Hamill's Face or Jack Palance's Push-ups.

We also thought it was something like a 5.9.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag
By: teece303 When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: This is a great little cliff. I've now climbed all 6 lines, and they are all high quality. Typical gneiss climbing: highly featured, but often with holds pointing slightly the wrong way. Good stuff, super short approach (but steep).

The lines are very generously bolted, which I really appreciate on a highly featured slab. Nobody likes to cheese grater down that stuff.

Be careful leaving: I often flip a u-turn, but visibility is limited.

Note: this crag never sees sun. We went there on a beaut... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag : Morin a Minute (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: To me, this is the hardest route on the cliff. I tried it once in bad conditions and got shut down but was able to lead Hasbeen Done in the same conditions that day. I onsighted Gneiss Lee Done, and that felt noticably easier to me. I made it up this time but had to rest a couple times after making clips.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Jason's Argonaut (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: This is a fun route, and the crux is well-protected, but it is glass smooth for a second right there and for me at 5' 7" very much in the 5.10 ratings.

After bolt three, it's over.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Pockets a' Plenty (5.9)
By: teece303 When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: I like this route, but be solid at this grade, and understand RRCOS climbing.

I suppose this is technically a bit easier than Jason's Argonaut to the left, but it is a bit more sustained at the bottom; however, this is a more challenging lead than that route, head-wise and consequence wise.

It spit me off just before bolt three, and I came down to about bolt one. At the first ledge, I was a bit jittery from that fall, and as I set off into the pockets after the first ledge and I was ... more >>


Location: SonjaB : pics : Photo
By: teece303 When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: You are a badass, Sonja.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : The Perfect 10 (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: The more I think about this route and climb it, I think that it is a great line that is very poorly bolted. The line I climb is 10a, and I love it, but getting to a couple of the clips from said line is very annoying (especially clip 4, which was placed by a tall person who thinks everyone is tall).


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Jazz Dome : D&D (5.8)
By: teece303 When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: This is a great, fun line. I need to get back there and lead this thing. The start is hard.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Little Green Apples (5.8)
By: teece303 When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: I found this route strange. If I stayed left, it was far easier than 5.8 (5.5?), and if I tried to force myself onto the aręte (more right), it seemed harder than 5.8. It was a fun route, but the natural line of least resistance is not a 5.8 to me.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Noodlers' Nightmare (5.5)
By: teece303 When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I took my girlfriend and her daughter here. A great climb for the complete newbie. As a lead, this climb is about the easiest bolted route you will find anywhere near Denver, with the exception (perhaps) of that 5.4 on the Catslab in Clear Creek Canyon.

It is (sometimes far) easier than 5.5 until the last move a few feet before the anchor and short enough that height jitters are minimized for the newbie. Beware, though: lowering newbs here is hard on your rope, as they want to stay to the crack... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : The Perfect 10 (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: Jan 10, 2013

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Comments: I love this route, not sure why. Partly because it was my first lead at Table years ago. For me, all of the hard climbing seems to be well protected, and it is solid 10a if you zig-zag (right, left, up, right).


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorr... (5.7)
By: teece303 When: Jan 10, 2013

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Comments: I led this years ago, just clipping the bolts. Today, since it was my first lead in years, I put some gear in, too, to calm my nerves.

This is a great route. Yes, it is a tiny bit run out by Table standards but barely. The biggest run-out is at the bottom on really easy climbing.

The start is the hardest part of the route, and the aręte near the third bolt is the crux higher up. Good holds, a tiny bit balance-y at bolt three, but just commit and it's fine.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Lover's Leap (5.7) : Photo
By: teece303 When: Dec 30, 2012

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Comments: I remember this finish — I loved this route.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8) : Photo
By: teece303 When: Dec 30, 2012

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Comments: You are correct: beautiful line!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: teece303 When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: That is a great shot of Boulder! Still sad that I got shutdown by a thunderstorm on my only Flatiron climb, going to have to go back again.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Photo
By: teece303 When: Dec 24, 2012

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Comments: The black and white, overly dark version of this photo from John Long's Climbing Anchors is not nearly as cool. Awesome.