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Aiding.


Member Since: Dec 16, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,085
Total Points: 559
Last Year: 189
Last 30 Days: 23
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 738 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 102 | Page Improvments | Comments 39 | Posts 352 | Stars 171 | Ratings 73
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Atlantis Dome : Unsupervised Bolting (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Locker is my mentor, and we had TR'd this route before together. He taught me what I know, but it's true, he wasn't there when I bolted it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Little Half Dome
By: teece303 When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: The carabiner is *still* there, as of yesterday.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Atlantis Dome : Tim's Variation (5.9+)
By: teece303 When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: I have yet to decide if this will ever be bolted. There are anchors above it for the TR, but you must rap in. The crux move is fun on steep slab with some actual jugs, BUT said jugs are scary loose. A microwave-size flake probably needs to come off. I'm not sure if I want to clean that aggressively, and I'm also not sure what will be left of the route if it goes.

As it is, treat said jug very cautiously: it will ruin your belayer's day.

If I decide not to bolt it, the anchors will be cleaned ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Bimbo in Limbo (5.10a/b)
By: teece303 When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: I love this climb! My all-time Table favorite. Tricky for the grade: I disagree with the sentiment that this is a good first 10a climb. It is well-protected, but compared to some newer routes, the bolts may be farther apart than one is used to.

Don't let that dissuade! A great climb, and with maybe one exception, clean falls if anything goes wrong. Just be careful going from bolt 2 to bolt 3. The climbing is not bad, but don't blow the clip.

Also: I disagree with the route description for clip... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Atlantis Dome : Hot Lava (aka Soliloquy) (5.8 X)
By: teece303 When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: I tried to lead this once: I ended up bailing. I just couldn't find enough gear, and the only bolt was really far up there. My partner thought it was well-protected, and the old Hubbel guide doesn't even give it an R rating (and it lists two more bolts than modern descriptions state).

Wasn't sure what was up with this route. Maybe it really is an X? Honestly, I think a couple bolts should be retro'd, but that's just me. Heck, maybe it had two more bolts at one time....


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB Brain (5.9)
By: teece303 When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: A fun route. This one feels the most committing of the three. Don't blow the third clip (it's easy, I don't know why you would). Technical, careful routefinding required.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB King (5.9)
By: teece303 When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: I love this route. Fun start, neat traversing, nice little crux up high. Watch for broken glass at the top. This is the hardest of the three 5.9 routes on this face. If you are not careful in your routefinding, I think you can make this feel more like 5.10a.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Tim's Stupid Hat (5.7)
By: teece303 When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Well, there are anchors, they're just kinda special anchors. Briny your keyhole hangers for some buttonheads.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Atlantis Dome : Unknown 1 (tentative: Bla... (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: I actually managed to lead this route once: I think I came off something like 20 times before managing to make it up the lower section. It is very slippery, and the movement is on really tenuous holds. The upper section is fun 5.8 or 5.9.

I have no reservations saying it is much harder than a 10a in the lower section. The falls are clean and it is well bolted, though.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo...
By: teece303 When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: I love this peaceful little crag: every line that I've climbed is of very high quality.

Word of caution: yahoos like to hike out here and throw their beer bottles at the crag from the top. So not only is broken glass very common at the belay (watch your rope), the last time we also found broken glass in some of the jugs at the anchors. Be cautious what you grab in a deep hold: you could get a nasty cut.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : Lost in the Jungle (5.9)
By: teece303 When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: I loved this route. Pitch 1 is very leisurely. The crux on the second pitch is awesome but stout and committing. It climbs like a trad climb, and it's long. I loved it. Pitch 3 was a fun finish.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Vitamin-N (5.8+)
By: teece303 When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: This climb was really fun, if a bit surprising in its commitment factor.

I called it PG-13 just because if you blew it before the first bolt (on easy climbing), you'd factor 2 onto your belayer (or tumble into Clear Creek some 50' below if you were foolish enough to forego a belay anchor). The left traverse at the undercling was awesome. Some fairly heady clips for an 8+.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Upper Capitalist Crag : Get Rich (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I really liked this climb. I put a #1 C4 between bolts 1 and 2, and #0.3 X4 between bolts 2 and 3. It could be easily done without these, but they made me feel better. The layback at the roof was fun.

I counted 8 bolts and some very widely spaced cold shuts for anchors.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Passing Lane (5.9)
By: teece303 When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: When we climbed this in late March, neither me nor my partner found any bolts after the 4th.

Which was around a ~45' runout beyond bolt 4 at ~40' (putting this route solidly in X territory). It was easy terrain but still deserving a bolt or two, it was 5th class.

Not sure if we both just missed the bolts, or if some hangers were stolen, but we looked for bolts 5-7 with no luck.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Pack the Walls (5.6)
By: teece303 When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: This route has two bolts at the top, with quicklinks. One of the bolts is a a spinner.

It overhangs by a few feet, which is surprising when you look at it (but watch the rope hang, it does not contact the rock at all).

It is harder than 5.6 -- 5.8 I'd say, at least by modern standard. The crack will eat up protection. The crux is down low.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Jackalopes and Preachers (5.7 R)
By: teece303 When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Either your photo is wrong (not showing the route) or this has to be just to the LEFT of Ada Jam. Or I'm confused about where "Ada Jam" and "Are You Experienced" are located, because it sure looks like both of them are in the alcove to the right in this photo.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Bumblies For Breakfast (5.10a)
By: teece303 When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: I led this one a long time ago (with 5 bolts). It was spicy. Still pretty proud I did it, because 10a was real climbing for me then as a youngster, I need to get back and try this thing again.

Note: there are 10a moves way past bolts on this route, at least by sport climbing standards. Phenomenal route, with some good rests, but be ready to pull 10a moves 8-10 feet beyond your last bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : ... : Photo
By: teece303 When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: I fell off right before the anchors on this one, too.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: teece303 When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: I love Castlewood, and I climb here all the time.

I think it's worth telling the uninitiated: many climbs here are quite sand-bagged.

I've climbed 5.8s here that would be called 5.10a in many other areas. There are many crags where I have a good chance of onsighting 5.10a -- in Castlewood, I have almost no chance of doing that.

There are 5.7 trad climbs that have spit me off here -- the only other place I've climbed 5.7 that hard is Eldo.

Maybe I just suck at Cobblestone pulling, but I doubt... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Bag of Tricks aka Flake (5.9+)
By: teece303 When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Sandbagging is more or less the name of the game in Castlewood. With a couple of exceptions, every climb I've done here is sandbagged -- especially so on the bolted climbs, and a lot of the top ropes.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Mark Hamill's Face aka Jack... (5.9) : Photo
By: teece303 When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Luckily I wasn't wearing my stupid hat.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Purposefully Put In (5.7) : Photo
By: teece303 When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Is that the line? The other beta photo shows it going up the lame crack to the right of the big undercling.

We TR-Ed a variation of this line (same bottom, finish to the new anchors), but I thought we were sharing a lot less of the route Purposefully Put In than your photo indicates,


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Mark Hamill's Face aka Jack... (5.9) : Photo
By: teece303 When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt is really low. We thought about removing it, but given that the crux comes early, we'll probably I leave it. On the first lead, a hold broke just past the second bolt, and the first bolt really helped to soften the catch on very little rope.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Mark Hamill's Face aka Jack... (5.9)
By: teece303 When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Locker got the first ascent on this one, I got the first lead. Locker bolted it, I belayed.

It's a fun line and harder than it looks (at the bottom).

I can't remember what name we decided on: Mark Hamill's Face or Jack Palance's Push-ups.

We also thought it was something like a 5.9.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag
By: teece303 When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: This is a great little cliff. I've now climbed all 6 lines, and they are all high quality. Typical gneiss climbing: highly featured, but often with holds pointing slightly the wrong way. Good stuff, super short approach (but steep).

The lines are very generously bolted, which I really appreciate on a highly featured slab. Nobody likes to cheese grater down that stuff.

Be careful leaving: I often flip a u-turn, but visibility is limited.

Note: this crag never sees sun. We went there on a beaut... more >>


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