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Member Since: Oct 15, 2006
Last Visit: Oct 5, 2014
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Point Rank: # 3,110
Total Points: 156
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 517 | Routes 3 | Areas 3 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 389 | Stars 65 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8) : Photo
By: Tim McCabe When: Dec 7, 2013

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Comments: That's a Dennis Horning route, on the west edge, 5.9 I think he told me. Back in 89 I climbed the cracks directly below, rather then the original scramble pitch on the east side.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Not the Pawn (Other Pawns) : Just My Baby and Me (5.10+)
By: Tim McCabe When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Pretty sure this one was done with a Bosch. I know it was early 90's while they were still legal in the Park.

It was considered 10c when it first went up but I could see it loosing enough crystals to be harder by now. Very sustained for a Needles route.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Vertigo View : Sex Never did this to my ha... (5.9)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 16, 2012

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Comments: Its been a long time but I know I didn't tape up for this. I do remember there being holds inside the crack. Also there's really no feet so your on your arms more, very atypical for the area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Alice Rock : Alice in Wonderjam (5.9) : Photo
By: Tim McCabe When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: In a pack with the rest of her mountaineering gear.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Khayyam Spire : God's Own Drunk (5.8+)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: Brent I totally agree on the PG13, witnessed a near meltdown on it once, not sure about the rating its been a long time. Maybe things have changed holds break who knows.

Not sure exactly what Tony is trying to describe. For the second pitch I always went straight up a thin crack right above the belay. Always thought that pitch was the crux at about 5.9


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Campground Boulder : Central Yellow Wall (V3 R)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: I watched a guy from Boulder pull this off first try no pads and only one me spotter.

He did a bold move by putting his whole foot in the ear like pod. I finally sent it right after he did using the same technique. That was the first and only time I bouldered this one, top roped it a couple of time after. If you were to fall with your foot in the ear no doubt you would brake it as well as land on your head.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Campground Boulder : 5.7ish (V0)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: This is a great place to finish out the day with a good burn.

There are several one move wonders to the right of this one. As I recall there is one 5.8 and a couple of more in the 9 range. You have to use the same holds a couple of times just move a step right. The hold you used for your right hand becomes the left handhold for the next problem.

There were 5 problems that I would do in 10 laps for a total of 50. Do them as fast as possible to make it a semi aerobic workout.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Campground Boulder : North Mantle (V2-3)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: As I recall there is a bolt above this one. But working out the start with a top rope was awkward at best. Once you are above the mantle the rope helps to work out the finish.

Back in the early 90's I spent a lot of time at the Campground boulder. Lots of sore heels from this one, that was before pads. Once I had the mantle worked out I jumped off quite a few times before I broke down and put the rope on it. Once you figure it out thou it's a great problem to repeat.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Peter

Sounds like you only replaced on of the bolts, IMO that's enough. Like I said above this doesn't need to become a one pitch climb. There's plenty of routes that people just do the fist pitch of. Usually its because the second pitch is way harder this is not the case here.

As for the old bolt pulling out easy not too surprising considering how old it was. But also remember that no button head bolt is meant to take an outward pull.

Anyway good job with the one bolt repair job.

Clearly... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bell Tower : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.11b R)
By: Tim McCabe When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: I was living in the area when this route went in seems like I got the 3rd ascent. I remember something about why there wasn't a bolt after the crux. Not sure anymore but I don't remember the run out being that bad by Needles standards.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: There were 2 button head bolts for the first belay when I first climbed this route in 87.

You could easily build a gear anchor most anywhere on the climb. As I recall the first pitch is long but the bolts are placed to give a small ledge to stand on. These bolts weren't really necessary but they are nice as it helps one spread out at the belay and not have both the climber and belayer stuck in the crack.

At one point in the early 90's a climbing ranger wanted to upgrade them. Are they still bu... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: There is no need to carry your stuff up the route. As I recall it was pretty straight forward to get back to the start. From the summit rap down to the tree at the top of pitch 5. It's been a while since I was there but I do remember good bolt anchors all the way straight down. At some point we always did one of them as a half rope. Just don't skip any anchors the one short one is there for a reason. You'll come out above and east of the start.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire One : Spire One East Chimney (5.7+)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: FA June 12, 1952


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Bartizan Wall
By: Tim McCabe When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: If this wall were any where else it would get tons of traffic, in the Needles not so much. When I first moved there in 89 I met Bruce Thompson who was on the FA of Window on the West. He took me up the Window and later we did Kevizan as well. I would say that Window on the West is a 3-4 star route Kevizan 2-3 the roof by itself would be a 4.

I did Window several more times and would highly recommend it.

The only other route that I got on was Crack of Earthly Delights, as I recall it was just ... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: Tim McCabe When: Feb 28, 2011

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Comments: Rich thanks for the history that was a classic story to go with a classic climb.

This one is certainly not for the faint at heart. I doubt it really matters how hard you can lead. More important is how hard can you solo. If you have the balls to lead this one or the 5.10 direct start you will be very popular indeed.

While I was living in the area it seemed every one wanted to climb the Eye but few had the guts to lead it.

To avoid rope drag at the top I always used a double runner on the fir... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8)
By: Tim McCabe When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: Not surprising that the bolts on the summit have loosed up. The rock up there is as I recall very grainy. Almost like the hole top is exfoliated (like there are micro air pockets).

Are the old pins still up top. The old rap off of 2 pins in behind a very exfoliated flake never inspired confidence. I always brought along a big sling for the summit as a backup anchor.

Then I would send everyone else down with the backup in place. I figured if the pins had just held the other guy I could expect ... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jan 21, 2011

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Comments: Well I will try to recall the story of the first ascent.

As I recall Pete had placed the first bolt climbed the crux and then was on his way to the summit when:

His belayer (I forget if it was Dick (Doc) Laptad or Renn Fenton) locked him off on the ledge where the second bolt is and refused to feed more rope until he drilled the second bolt.

I did this route a couple of times and honestly I don't think the second bolt does much good as all of the hard climbing is over and you are only a few ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Imaginary Voyage (5.9-)
By: Tim McCabe When: Dec 26, 2010

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Comments: Add one star if it's one of the climbs you are capable of leading in the Needles. A great moderate less sustained climb.

I spent several years raft guiding in Kernville and made several trips each season to the Needles mostly taking other raft guides so I got to/had to lead every pitch. Got spanked on Igor once, mostly stuck to White Punks, Magic Dragon and this one.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Great Wall : California Screamin' (5.10)
By: Tim McCabe When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: As I recall we put this up in the summer of 89' Travis and his friend Greg had just graduated from high school. One afternoon hiking in to climb at the wall Greg was singing California Dreaming it had just hailed and it looked like snow on the ground. A couple of days latter Travis was trying to push the 11b direct line on this and took a huge whipper/screamer.

Also Paul Piana and Kevin Bein top roped most of the routes on the wall earlier in the 80's. I was talking with Paul while sitting on A... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Great Wall : Cascade (5.9)
By: Tim McCabe When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a Paul Duval route summer of 89' I was there that day as well as the California Boys Travis Spitzer and his friend Greg, as well as T-shirt Rich. Also Paul Piana and Kevin Bein and others top roped most of the routes on the wall earlier in the 80's. I was talking with Paul while sitting on Aquarium looking over at the wall he knew all of the climbs and ratings, having not been over there for several years, he didn't know that they had all been bolted already.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : El Matador (5.10d)
By: Tim McCabe When: Dec 17, 2009

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Comments: Once was enough for me on this one, I did spend about 20 minutes stretching before we left the ground.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Pinpoint Pinnacle : Loebers Leap : Mark and Timís Excellent Ad... (5.10b/c)
By: Tim McCabe When: Mar 10, 2008

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Comments: Adam

Thanks for the comments glad you liked the route, as the name implies we had fun putting it up.

Not sure about the problems you encountered with the crux traverse, but maybe I should have said long runners instead of slings and draws. I donít remember there being a problem with rope drag but I am sure I would have used a long runner on that piece.

I am not sure what you are talking about with the long swing for the second it has been too long since I have been on it.

Sounds like you c... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Tim McCabe When: Mar 26, 2007

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Comments: As recommended to me prior to climbing this route with a 60 meter rope combine the first pitch with the first part of the second and belay below the roof/alcove. The do the crux moves of pitch two with no rope drag and finish pitch 3 in two pitches. I never brought anything bigger than a #4 friend for the 4th pitch TCUís and Aliens are good to have. I always did the friction pitch by clipping all 4 bolts just keep moving right the old guide only show 3 bolts and then straight up to belay r... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jan 2, 2007

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Comments: The standard 5.9 that all other 5.9's are based on. The first pitch is a little hard to protect after that the gear is great. Standard rack plus one #4 BD Cam.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks
By: Tim McCabe When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: I can still remember the first time I lead Trojan D my climbing mentor sent me up a gully to the left. This put me up at the same level as the first bolt just to the left. Perhaps the fear of reaching out to clip that bolt is why I remember it so clearly. Latter I started doing the route by starting in the proper place and found it to be a very rewarding lead. I always liked to start way right moving up and left into the trough this helped me to get into the flow of the route. As for the run out... more >>


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