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Member Since: Oct 15, 2006
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Tim McCabe


Point Rank: # 2,749
Total Points: 144
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Tim McCabe been climbing?


8 people gave this user's contributions a positive rating.











Tim McCabe

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (481) | Routes (3) | Areas (3) | Photos (9) | Comments (24) | Posts (380) | Stars (47) | Ratings (15)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Janine's Arete

5.9 (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Finial

Nov 26, 2006

Mark and Tim’s Excellent Adventure. (in the land of the leberlopers).

5.10b/c (7)

Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 280 feet, Grade II

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Loebers Leap

Nov 1, 2006

Flying Buttress Airlines

5.10a/b X (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Flying Buttress

Nov 1, 2006

Contributed Areas

Name Location  Useful To  Date

Finial

SD : Custer State Park : Pinpoint Pinnacle

Nov 26, 2006

Loebers Leap

SD : Custer State Park : Pinpoint Pinnacle

Nov 1, 2006

Pinpoint Pinnacle

SD : Custer State Park

Nov 1, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Running the Verde tandem.

Running the Verde tandem.

Other Sports : Any River Running Climbers ... : Post

Aug 16, 2012

Falls on Brush Creek Kern Valley, CA.

Falls on Brush Creek Kern Valley, CA.

Other Sports : Any River Running Climbers ... : Post

Aug 16, 2012

When your local river only runs a couple of times a year you have to run it.

When your local river only runs a couple of times a year you have to run it.

Other Sports : Any River Running Climbers ... : Post

Aug 16, 2012

Two day Forks of the Kern trip Needles in the background.

Two day Forks of the Kern trip Needles in the background.

Other Sports : Any River Running Climbers ... : Post

Aug 16, 2012

Standing on the yellow jug. Early 90's

Standing on the yellow jug. Early 90's

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X)

2 people

Nov 27, 2011

The North Mantle back in the early 90's

The North Mantle back in the early 90's

SD : Custer State Park : ... : North Mantle (V2-3)

1 person

Nov 27, 2011

Janine McCabe on the Summit Block

Janine McCabe on the Summit Block

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Mark and Tim’s Excellent Ad... (5.10b/c)

1 person

Nov 1, 2006

Michael Johnson, on site free solo just after the retro bolts were added.

Michael Johnson, on site free solo just after the retro bolts were added.

SD : Custer State Park : ... : All That Glitters is Gold (... (5.10)

4 people

Nov 1, 2006

I think this is me placing the second bolt.

I think this is me placing the second bolt.

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Flying Buttress Airlines (5.10a/b X)

Nov 1, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Vertigo View : Sex Never did this to my ha... (5.9)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Its been a long time but I know I didn't tape up for this. I do remember there being holds inside the crack. Also there's really no feet so your on your arms more, very atypical for the area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Alice Rock : Alice in Wonderjam (5.9) : Photo
By: Tim McCabe When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: In a pack with the rest of her mountaineering gear.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Khayyam Spire : God's Own Drunk (5.8+)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: Brent I totally agree on the PG13, witnessed a near meltdown on it once, not sure about the rating its been a long time. Maybe things have changed holds break who knows.

Not sure exactly what Tony is trying to describe. For the second pitch I always went straight up a thin crack right above the belay. Always thought that pitch was the crux at about 5.9


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Campground Boulder : Central Yellow Wall (V3 R)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: I watched a guy from Boulder pull this off first try no pads and only one me spotter.

He did a bold move by putting his whole foot in the ear like pod. I finally sent it right after he did using the same technique. That was the first and only time I bouldered this one, top roped it a couple of time after. If you were to fall with your foot in the ear no doubt you would brake it as well as land on your head.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Campground Boulder : 5.7ish (V0)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: This is a great place to finish out the day with a good burn.

There are several one move wonders to the right of this one. As I recall there is one 5.8 and a couple of more in the 9 range. You have to use the same holds a couple of times just move a step right. The hold you used for your right hand becomes the left handhold for the next problem.

There were 5 problems that I would do in 10 laps for a total of 50. Do them as fast as possible to make it a semi aerobic workout.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Campground Boulder : North Mantle (V2-3)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: As I recall there is a bolt above this one. But working out the start with a top rope was awkward at best. Once you are above the mantle the rope helps to work out the finish.

Back in the early 90's I spent a lot of time at the Campground boulder. Lots of sore heels from this one, that was before pads. Once I had the mantle worked out I jumped off quite a few times before I broke down and put the rope on it. Once you figure it out thou it's a great problem to repeat.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Tim McCabe When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Peter

Sounds like you only replaced on of the bolts, IMO that's enough. Like I said above this doesn't need to become a one pitch climb. There's plenty of routes that people just do the fist pitch of. Usually its because the second pitch is way harder this is not the case here.

As for the old bolt pulling out easy not too surprising considering how old it was. But also remember that no button head bolt is meant to take an outward pull.

Anyway good job with the one bolt repair job.

Clearly... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bell Tower : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.11b R)
By: Tim McCabe When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: I was living in the area when this route went in seems like I got the 3rd ascent. I remember something about why there wasn't a bolt after the crux. Not sure anymore but I don't remember the run out being that bad by Needles standards.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: There were 2 button head bolts for the first belay when I first climbed this route in 87.

You could easily build a gear anchor most anywhere on the climb. As I recall the first pitch is long but the bolts are placed to give a small ledge to stand on. These bolts weren't really necessary but they are nice as it helps one spread out at the belay and not have both the climber and belayer stuck in the crack.

At one point in the early 90's a climbing ranger wanted to upgrade them. Are they still bu... more >>


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Tim McCabe When: Jul 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: There is no need to carry your stuff up the route. As I recall it was pretty straight forward to get back to the start. From the summit rap down to the tree at the top of pitch 5. It's been a while since I was there but I do remember good bolt anchors all the way straight down. At some point we always did one of them as a half rope. Just don't skip any anchors the one short one is there for a reason. You'll come out above and east of the start.


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