Comments: It's cool that these are bolted into real routes now. I remember doing these in the early 1980s. John Duran and friends had done a bunch of climbing on this wall previous to taking me there. It's funny how having bolts to follow somehow makes the climbing better. We used to just look for the cleanest line and avoid making climbing into easy territory. Of course, we were into big runouts at that time, so no bolts was a plus.
Comments: It's a dang oak bush, ya bunch of bleeding hearts! Imma bolt it right where it leans, and it will stay there another 20 years. Falling ice has killed that twig more than 1000 climbers. Can't kill gamble oak with poison, chainsaw, or fire. It does seem to be dying though...drought!
Comments: When John Duran and I did the FA, we started by surmounting the choss roof, just off the ground, with a hard move onto a clean, unprotected face. No need to go to the bolt, which is some other contrivance. Go instead through a bush on the right, then make a slab move to gain the bottom of the crack. We used to belay right there, but I'll bet you could do it from the ground. If it had a convenient lowering anchor, it might make it more popular, as it should be. Maybe some bolts on that low fa... more >>
Comments: The bolts leading right from Brady's were installed by Jared Ogden a few years ago. I don't know how much work they put into climbing it though, or much else for that matter. Looks pretty hard.
The other line of bolts is definitely a great line. Jim Symans bolted it back in the Lemon heyday. I have toyed with it, really hard for sure, maybe 13+ or so. You should work on those, get 'em done. I'll give you a belay, man.
Comments: Just wondering if anyone more local to the Tower than me has considered replacing all the time bomb bolts and hangers that exist on nearly every route there? Beware. Many recalled SMC hangers. Many lower grade Redhed style bolts. Rusty. Crap. Never mind the missing hanger on Rumplestiltskin.
Comments: Hey Sam, sorry that is neg.nelly. You are absolutely entitled to your opinion. 'Cause that's all star ratings are. We all want other people to get on our routes. But Really? Or maybe you're talking about my critique of y'all's ignorance of climbing terminology- just callin' it like I see it, yo.
I soloed the route. I said I had a good time. This horse has been getting whipped and beaten since climbing began, and I think it will live a long and wretched life. Beating the horse is half the... more >>
Comments: You can not claim an "onsight" as you were able to pre-inspect certain/any holds as you rapped on past. Any form of toprope pre-inspection or prior knowledge is a "redpoint" or if dangerous/runout moves are present it is a "headpoint", especially if rehearsed. Kinda my definitions anyway.
Some of the bolts used are not 5 piece Rawls or Petzl. I'd like to know what they are?
By the way, you can clip the first bolt on Betty before doing the crux. Ya jus' gotta figure that move out. ... more >>
Comments: For the sake of keeping out conversation going, and for the record: Stoneage Struggle- hand drilled from stances starting at the bottom. Betty - hand drilled, on lead. Dogs of Doom - led ground-up, no bolts. Journey Home - started at top, hike down gully, led from bottom. All are examples of trad routes, done in traditional style, as opposed to a sport route which is typically drilled on rap and well protected.
I don't think most people care about the "artifi... more >>
Comments: So, I came up with some specific examples to more sharply illustrate my point of view: When I was climbing this route the other day, I got to a point a bit past the third bolt, where I stood on one foot for quite some time- kinda scared and wonderin' what to do. This is a stance where a guy drilling on lead would naturally have fired in a bolt (I sure wanted one, just then).
But alas, the decision was made whilst hanging on a rope, thus creating an artificial runout. So,... more >>
Comments: Yeah, that was a totally sarcastic comment as we had just been through the awesome Contortionist debate. I still haven't done Martyr's Crown, so I can't say much about how the runouts feel to me. I did boulder up to the first bolt and back down-that was cool. If you think it needs more bolts, that's up to you.
Your values, when it comes to the mental aspect of scary routes, are much like my own. But climbing has become so diverse in that different segments of people have different poi... more >>
Comments: Hey, I did this route today and had a good time. I toproped it many years ago and decided against the work/expense. But clipping your bolts, I found it to be worthy.
I would add a bolt at the start, even though it's easy, just to mark the route. And I would add a bolt at the finish, if you want people to ever do the route. With all the lichen (get's wet), the rock will always be a little soft and dirty, so the it's likely that holds could break. Some pro is nice in that case. No comparison ... more >>
Comments: I did overhear you talking about The Black Arete but didn't catch your intent. I thought maybe you were bolting something new near it or I would have said something. The tool comment was rhetorical and not directed at a specific person.
We all know you think this would be a contribution/improvement.
When you minimize the value of the East Animas Climbing Area, you display your vast inexperience. Perhaps when you gain another decade or two of climbing travel, you might learn to appreciate the... more >>
Comments: When I bolted The Kong Route, I avoided bolting where Kong joins The Black Arete for a short distance. Yesterday I noticed Tyler drilling uncomfortably close to where you get the thin gear on both routes, so the location of the evil retrobolts may also be an issue. Would it be possible to step up and clip the new bolt on Black Arete to protect the moves before the clip on Kong? That would be cause for more insults and threats. For real.
Comments: How about a diverse selection of runout routes? Between me retrobolting "my" routes and others', unknown people retrobolting "mine" and others' routes, soon we will be left with only "safe" routes. Leading this route without bolts is an advancement for that level of climber. And yes, we do it for our ego, to make ourselves feel good about our accomplishments. That's exactly why people are pissed about it.
Retrobolting is a slippery slope, man.
You are right! I am a wuss for not solo... more >>