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Member Since: Apr 22, 2011
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 848
Total Points: 702
Last Year: 204
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (404) | Routes (27) | Areas (2) | Photos (65) | Comments (77) | Posts (3) | Stars (133) | Ratings (97)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Detour (V8-9)
By: Tim King When: Feb 14, 2013

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Comments: Thomas sent this today. He was thinking between V8-9, though is waiting for consensus. I didn't send, but it felt hard to me. The sequence surmounting the bulge is pretty rad though, and culminates with a slam dunk style move to a sloper.

The holds are all cleaned and chalked though, and awaiting repeats.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Arboretum (V6)
By: Tim King When: Feb 14, 2013

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Comments: Me and Thomas sent this today. The crux now feels like the move going out to the lip, but wasn't too bad. May have bumped it up a grade, not quite sure. The foot we used today was flexing a bit and might brake, but it looks like there should still be some good feet there regardless.

Anyways, this is a super fun problem. The sequence is awesome, and that mantel is classic.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Wet Work Dihedral (5.10 V1 R)
By: Tim King When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: Quite the list there, Andy. Thanks for the history lesson!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: Tim King When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, I wasn't trying to give Mutants as a good example, just wanted to show that without background information, it can look like there is some precedent to gluing in SB. Strange that someone would even chisel that hold, as it's still pretty jug-like in it's current form...

Also, I noticed a series of fingerpockets on the thin crack above Mutants that appear to be filled with epoxy. Was this a similar incident?

Thanks again though for bringing up such good points as far as gluing goe... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: Tim King When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the responses and input everyone.

You all make good points. I've never glued anything, and honestly wasn't even planning to do it. However, having showed some people this problem recently, the idea inevitably comes up. So I decided to just toss it up here and get some info from the community. It's nice to now have a general consensus on the topic, and it makes sense. Our local stone is choss. Holds break, change and morph over time, whether through natural forces or otherwise. Gluing... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Rapunzel's Tower (V1)
By: Tim King When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: Ha, I will definitely echo that sentiment Sean. One of those lines that just calls to be climbed. Was starting to get myself psyched for it, but after breaking some holds off both Debra and Ballet Lessons yesterday with some exciting falls, set it on the back burner again (those holds near the very top seem a bit friable).

But damnit soon we'll just have to sack up and do it!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Neon Genesis Project (V11+)
By: Tim King When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: After the first move from the huge flake, you are on two side by side crimps. The left hand one (which is also commonly used as a foothold to climb Debra) is flexing a lot.

Most of the potential suitors I've brought to look at the project have been fairly wary of breaking said hold, as thus haven't put that much effort into it. I was just wondering what peoples thoughts are as far as glue/epoxy? I've never done it before, but have seen it other places in SB. This seems like a situation that may... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : The Brute (V9)
By: Tim King When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments:
Brute Project
Brute Project

Thomas was almost sticking this today. Multiple times was even closer than this, but I'm a shiety photographer so that's what you get.

This thing is rad though, and will be a great addition to Potters (especially from the sit; yikes!)

Edit: 2/14/13
Tom sent this one today from the stand. Started working the sit, with every move but one, but the link still looks ferocious.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Soon I Will Be Gone (V7)
By: Tim King When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: Nice work on this one, Sean! Got a few peeps out there today to check it out. No full send (broke a piece off that upper crescent crimp which foiled the send; shouldn't affect difficulty), but solid V7 seems about right (report back after clean send). And in warm conditions, good luck...

Powerful, delicate, balancy, awkward... Great climb! Especially once it's fully cleaned up, a new classic Potters Point problem.

edit: Prime conditions certainly help on this problem...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Roadhouse Blues (V6-)
By: Tim King When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: Awesome problem; good rock and great movement! A lot of climbing for such a small boulder, and packs a punch with that finish move.

Edit: After going back out and repeating this one today and getting a couple other strong fellas on it, I think it may be solid V6. Feels at least as hard (actually probably a bit harder) than Ballet Lessons. Thomas (who almost stuck the Brute Project today, fingers carresing that mini jug) thought it was stout, even at 6. Whatever the rating, and despite... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Squash (V3)
By: Tim King When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Ah, that sure does make sense (for both lines).

If the chaparral is dense, it is seriously one of the hardest (if not impossible) types of terrain I've ever experienced.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : The Oracle (V7)
By: Tim King When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: This boulder can easily be seen off the side of the trail.

Oracle Boulder from the trail
Oracle Boulder from the trail



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Wet Work Dihedral (5.10 V1 R)
By: Tim King When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: There's also this one directly to the right. No crack, so more of a stemming problem, but much easier to protect than it's neighbor to the left.
Stem
Stem



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Myth of Silenus (V3)
By: Tim King When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: I don't mind people posting entries when they don't have all the information (in fact, it's one of the best ways to get info about a problem), but ones like that just add to confusion. There is literally no way I could use this entry to find this boulder or problem.

Also, if you google 'san ysidro bouldering' (don't even have to specify Santa Barbara) this page comes up in the first few hits: americanrivierabouldering.blogspot.com/2008/12/garden-of-ede>>>
documenting most of the bould... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering)
By: Tim King When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Alexander seemed a bit busy to add photos, so I snapped a couple. I tried to match the pictures up with the problems/descriptions, but may not be 100% correct. Let me know if there's anything is wrong.

Not sure on the FA status on anything here, as everything listed is pretty much directly off the trail.

The stone in the area can be pretty good due to water washing, but it is by no means 'concentrated'. There are a few quality problems scattered throughout the canyon, and the setting is nice (... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : Caveman
By: Tim King When: Feb 2, 2013

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Comments: Dang, didn't see this comment buried here 'til a bit late. Sent ya a message Sean, but not sure if it went through. Anyhows, hit me up anytime, always stoked to do more work at the Point.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Ballet Lessons (V6)
By: Tim King When: Feb 2, 2013

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Comments: I broke part off the left handed crimp, but it was the far left side and didn't really affect the climb. Fell when it broke but was able to repeat it after.

Really a great climb though. Some good burl moves to a few delicate crimps and an awesome face finish.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Squash (V3)
By: Tim King When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, this problem is great. Every time I do it I wonder how it wasn't included in O11. Cool moves and holds all the way through. You can exit back left (maybe a little easier) or go straight over the bulge (probably more fun:).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : Caveman
By: Tim King When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: I don't have the ability to move things, but I'll let Andy know.

I was out by Caveman the other day, and took a few pics:
imgur.com/a/VUNXH

The first 5 are from near Caveman, and may be some of the problems your referencing. The last 3 are more towards the main bouldering area, on the mountain side down from Ballet Lessons. Let me know if your recognize any/have any info.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering
By: Tim King When: Jan 26, 2013

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Comments: Hodge podge ramble shamble SB pebble wrestling video:
Santa Barbara's Got Bouldering
.
Problems:
The Font Problem
Smooth Criminal
The Rats of Nimh
The Dancing Outlaw
Breathless
Little Bear
21 and Up
Parental Discretion
Debra


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Debra (V8)
By: Tim King When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: Ah, I only got to give this one a few proper burns as we exhausted extra time and energy at Skofield prior, but I was able to match and start making the move for the jug (hit it, but not properly). To me, the crimp felt big enough that you could grab the far right side with your right hand (almost like a mini-knob), and come into the match with enough room for your left. I dunno, felt about an 8 to me, but I'll have to wait for the send to really say. It's just a drastically different style when... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : The King is Dead (V6)
By: Tim King When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: Sounds like it Itai (except I start right hand pocket, left crimp, either way though). I actually almost like this one more than King Dino, mainly because I love that rippling arete feature (kind of like an overhanging 'Breathless'). Added a couple photos (thanks, Luke)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard
By: Tim King When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: Sure, though I can't guarantee you'll get only the positive characteristics, heh...

Really though, it's a lot of your little 'reminders' that have inspired some of the things I now do, such as always bringing a bag to pick up trash (makes it super easy to grab the little stuff, like cig butts, tape, cans etc) and just generally trying to leave the area nicer than you found it.

You want to climb here today, tomorrow and hopefully 20 years from now. Areas like this are rare, treat them with the ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Tim King When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: Another patch of obvious erosion from pressure washing is just to the right of Breathless. And whaddaya know, there's more graffiti right on top (the old stuff wasn't even fully removed), but now there's tons of deep pressure washing gashes there too.

Saw some people out there today grinding graffiti off of some rocks. I tried to politely let them know that their efforts are appreciated, but to ensure that what they are doing isn't permanently adversely affecting the area. The graffiti will dis... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Little Bear (V7-8)
By: Tim King When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: This one is great! Randomly saw it as I walked passed today, and starting sussing the beta. Did all the moves but walked away without a send (was dark by the time I dialed the moves) , but I'll for sure stop by again tomorrow and try to finish it off. Felt tough, but maybe not an 8... Was able to do all the moves fairly quick, but I'll wait 'til I've actually sent to comment any further grade-wise.

Regardless, one of my new favorites at the Mouth.

Edit: Got the send, just before the rain. Gre... more >>


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