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Member Since: May 22, 2012
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 492 | Routes 131 | Areas 9 | Photos 18 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 3 | Stars 295 | Ratings 18

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : East Side : Aries Butte : Led by Sheep (5.7)
By: thomasg When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Good climbing with some long distance between bolts. For the 5.6 leader i would consider doing this carefully as a fall would be bad. Generally cruxes aren't too far from bolts but this can be sandy.

for the 5.9 leader this is not a PG13 climb as you should feel solid on everything. But don't try falling.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Teeanova (5.12a)
By: thomasg When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Good route. Dogged it a bit today to figure out the moves (first go, may not have time to try it again on this trip).

This is a rope eater though. I fell multiple times on the 2nd crux (worsening pockets to a sharp 2 finger and around a groove). Don't think i got it bang on for that but my rope has 2 meters less due to drag, core was showing. Was using long draws. Any advice?


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : ... : 30 Something (5.12a)
By: thomasg When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: The name of the route is actually B60 OFO if memory serves correctly.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : ... : Keel Haul Wall (5.6 PG13)
By: thomasg When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: not PG13, lots of good gear and bolts where there is none. Single rack tops.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : ... : Grey Waves (5.8 PG13)
By: thomasg When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: not pg13, more interesting than KHW


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Pure Imagination (5.14c)
By: thomasg When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: onsights with pre placed draws are onsights in hard sport. just because you can't do it doesn't make it not an onsight. placing the draw is secondary.


Location: NH : Rumney : Darth Vader : Darth Vader (5.9)
By: thomasg When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: good climbing with huge jugs throughout. a 0.5 C4 or a good nut protects the removed bolt portion. maybe removing the 1 bolt beta from the page would be good since there is none anymore.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Twit (5.10d)
By: thomasg When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: really tough crux and right side is really lose so couldn't use it. had to do some sort of gaston move with a crimp/finger crack. the crack is pretty dirty again so bring your nut tool.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Technical Second (5.10b)
By: thomasg When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: the bolts are really dangerous on this climb. one is a total spinner and the other is rusted to the point of flexing easily. next person to climb this should bring extra hangers and a wrench. be careful!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek
By: thomasg When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: any good spots to meet partners at obed? we're going as three and would like a forth probably.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : Gooseberry (5.8)
By: thomasg When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: I think it says on grav sports that this is now a fully bolted sport route.... can someone confirm?


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Sir Edmond Drillary (5.11a) : Photo
By: thomasg When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: yep. that was me, however i don't think you can see the jug start proper. Thank god the rock split... and there was no one on the slabs below. The starting hold is still insanely huge, however i'm unsure as to if you actually start there (since it says "start left" and we started right below, even maybe a tad closer).


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Finland (5.11a)
By: thomasg When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: hard for 11a, for sure!


Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : War and Peace (5.9+)
By: thomasg When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: Anchors look a little worn (for those who like to know this sort of thing). I guess people have TRed through them again...


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lonesome Dove (5.10a)
By: thomasg When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Great route, didn't notice the flake, will check next time!


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Montreal Area : Mont Rigaud
By: thomasg When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: Why is everything rated R or PG13 at this sport crag? Are the bolts really that spaced?


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Amore Eel (5.10b)
By: thomasg When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Stick clip and second bolt are sorta sketch. Otherwise, don't top rope this. The trees are mean and the swing keeps you out.


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Salley's Alley (5.11c)
By: thomasg When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Fun and really varied, will redpoint next go!

If it feels hard, just stem. I think that's what saved me! Easier than Barking Spiders to the left.


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