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Member Since: Jan 13, 2003
Last Visit: Jan 11, 2014
Contact Thom Engelbach


Point Rank: # 7,525
Total Points: 33
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has Thom Engelbach been climbing?










Contributions


All (54) | Routes | Areas | Photos (3) | Comments (18) | Posts (25) | Stars (5) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Another fire, northwest of Estes Park, flared up while we were on the summit plateau.

Another fire, northwest of Estes Park, flared up while we were on the summit plateau.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : I Thought You Had It? (5.10- R)

Oct 10, 2010

Cor starting up Pitch 1.

Cor starting up Pitch 1.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : I Thought You Had It? (5.10- R)

Oct 10, 2010

Cor approaching the base.

Cor approaching the base.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : I Thought You Had It? (5.10- R)

Oct 10, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Direct Second Buttress (5.9)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: On the second pitch, I left the crack and face climbed up and left and then a few feet back right to gain a clean, shallow dihedral which led straight up to the left end of the sloping ramp, where I was able to make a decent belay (purple Camalot, #3 Friend, blue Camalot). Super pitch with sporty runouts and great rock, but it doesn't match the description given here.

This is a pretty good route, but it could use some traffic.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground : Formicae (5.10a PG13)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: I have to admit that I was a bit nervous when I on-sight soloed this, before the bolts were installed.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Overlook Cliff
By: Thom Engelbach When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Bring a helmet for the belayer. I've pulled a few holds off. These walls will clean up with a bit more traffic.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Fire Tower : ... : Photo
By: Thom Engelbach When: Oct 10, 2010

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Comments: This blew our minds so much that we left most of the rack on the summit.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Fire Tower : ... : Photo
By: Thom Engelbach When: Oct 10, 2010

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Comments: It looked worthy, but it was a cold and windy day, so we took the easy way up.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Fire Tower : ... : Photo
By: Thom Engelbach When: Oct 10, 2010

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Comments: The thin crack on the upper left looks good, but it felt too cold that day to try it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Mar 12, 2007

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Comments: FM means Frequency Modulation. Makes sense to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : What's Up? (5.10d)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Mar 12, 2007

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Comments: The rusty knifeblade is sheared off now, but you can get a couple of good RPs. Make sure they are good, because this is one of the hardest 5.9s in the canyon....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Nov 20, 2006

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Comments: I clipped the second bolt and downclimbed to the ground, then went back up, stuck (struck?) the next move and finished the route. I thought I had flashed the route until another climber complimented me on my "nice try." Is downclimbing considered poor style these days?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Jul 2, 2006

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Comments: Bob,
I did this route with Jim Donini last year. He's the same age (within a day) as Mick Jagger, 62. In fact, a lot of people think of Mick Jagger as the Jim Donini of Rock 'n' Roll! I was only 44 at the time, which brought our team average to 106/2=53.
We fixed a few quarts of water at strategic locations on the way down. Recommended!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Dec 19, 2004

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Comments: Sometimes it's hard to determine whether a hold is "on" or not. Try this simple rule, which works well in Boulder Canyon: When you are touching the hold, can you touch a bolt with your elbow or your knee? If so, the hold is "on" and you can proceed to use it with a clear conscience.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Ghost Dance (5.11)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Jun 14, 2004

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Comments: You might consider taping up for this one. There was blood.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Ticket (5.12a)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Feb 24, 2004

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Comments: This is also a great winter route-protected from the wind, and the sun stays on it until the very end of the day on the shortest days of the year.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Muscle and Hate (5.10d PG13)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Jan 11, 2004

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Comments: We thought it was more like 5.10, maybe a little bit serious before you get the first bomber hand jam.....every hold is either a jug or a sinker jam, and a double set of cams would be excessive. Still a fun diversion if you're in the neighborhood.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Ruffis (5.11b)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Nov 9, 2003

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Comments: This is a super route. If it was on the Nautilus, you would do it every time you come to Vedauwoo!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Bug Squad (5.11d R)
By: Thom Engelbach When: May 20, 2003

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Comments: You want to climb this thing on a cool day with low relative humidity. Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : MaxiLash (5.11a)
By: Thom Engelbach When: May 20, 2003

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Comments: It helps to have soft shoes, especially on the right foot, when cresting the nastiest part of the squeeze/offwidth. Also, it is possible to stack your head and your left hand in the crack, if your hat size is around 7 3/4. Everyone should do this climb about once a year.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Conan (5.11c/d)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: "Extreme" is really good, too, while you are up there.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: found bag at animal worldLost and FoundThom EngelbachSep 27, 2010
re: To mono or not to monoIce ClimbingThom EngelbachNov 25, 2009
re: Communication with BelayerGeneral ClimbingThom EngelbachMar 12, 2009
re: 5.12 route recommendations in Boulder CanyonColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionThom EngelbachAug 8, 2008
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