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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground : Formicae (5.10a PG13)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Aug 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to admit that I was a bit nervous when I on-sight soloed this, before the bolts were installed.
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Overlook Cliff
By: Thom Engelbach When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a helmet for the belayer. I've pulled a few holds off. These walls will clean up with a bit more traffic.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Fire Tower : ... : Photo
By: Thom Engelbach When: Oct 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This blew our minds so much that we left most of the rack on the summit.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Fire Tower : ... : Photo
By: Thom Engelbach When: Oct 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looked worthy, but it was a cold and windy day, so we took the easy way up.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Fire Tower : ... : Photo
By: Thom Engelbach When: Oct 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The thin crack on the upper left looks good, but it felt too cold that day to try it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FM means Frequency Modulation. Makes sense to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : What's Up? (5.10d)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rusty knifeblade is sheared off now, but you can get a couple of good RPs. Make sure they are good, because this is one of the hardest 5.9s in the canyon....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Nov 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I clipped the second bolt and downclimbed to the ground, then went back up, stuck (struck?) the next move and finished the route. I thought I had flashed the route until another climber complimented me on my "nice try." Is downclimbing considered poor style these days?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Jul 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob,
I did this route with Jim Donini last year. He's the same age (within a day) as Mick Jagger, 62. In fact, a lot of people think of Mick Jagger as the Jim Donini of Rock 'n' Roll! I was only 44 at the time, which brought our team average to 106/2=53.
We fixed a few quarts of water at strategic locations on the way down. Recommended!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Dec 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sometimes it's hard to determine whether a hold is "on" or not. Try this simple rule, which works well in Boulder Canyon: When you are touching the hold, can you touch a bolt with your elbow or your knee? If so, the hold is "on" and you can proceed to use it with a clear conscience.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Ghost Dance (5.11)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Jun 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: You might consider taping up for this one. There was blood.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Ticket (5.12a)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Feb 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is also a great winter route-protected from the wind, and the sun stays on it until the very end of the day on the shortest days of the year.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Muscle and Hate (5.10d PG13)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Jan 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: We thought it was more like 5.10, maybe a little bit serious before you get the first bomber hand jam.....every hold is either a jug or a sinker jam, and a double set of cams would be excessive. Still a fun diversion if you're in the neighborhood.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Ruffis (5.11b)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Nov 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a super route. If it was on the Nautilus, you would do it every time you come to Vedauwoo!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Bug Squad (5.11d R)
By: Thom Engelbach When: May 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: You want to climb this thing on a cool day with low relative humidity. Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : MaxiLash (5.11a)
By: Thom Engelbach When: May 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: It helps to have soft shoes, especially on the right foot, when cresting the nastiest part of the squeeze/offwidth. Also, it is possible to stack your head and your left hand in the crack, if your hat size is around 7 3/4. Everyone should do this climb about once a year.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Conan (5.11c/d)
By: Thom Engelbach When: Jan 13, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Extreme" is really good, too, while you are up there.
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