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Member Since: Oct 29, 2012
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion

 
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All 1007 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 7 | Posts 999 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: This is an excellent route and it's all good, not just the OW pitch. It would be just as classic without that pitch, so get after it.

There seems to be a lot of internet hardman posturing about this route. I'll try to clarify it a bit.

If you want a route to compare the crux of this to, it's bg crack at Vedauwoo. The crux, above the second roof is nearly identical climbing, just a shade longer. Also rated ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Dan, the take away point is that the route is fantastic.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: We inadvertently did most of the route today. We had a slower party above us, and we jumped on something they weren't on.

Anyway, it was fantastic the pitches we climbed (did not do p1 or p4). Coming home and reading this topo though, I might be inclined to call shenanigans on some of the ratings. Each pitch we did felt harder than ratings here. Of course I haven't been at altitude for over a year, and I haven't climbed much this summer. Still, I've been around awhile.

I'll make it a point to ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : The Fracture (5.11b/c)
By: highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Crumbly rock, dirty, and rather uninteresting climbing.

Move along, it's not worth the trouble.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: Pretty much what Topher said except I can't claim to have onsighted it.

It's really good and fun climbing. What makes it great is the sustained nature, there is a lot of really good 5.11 on this route plus a really cool crux.

If I had a complaint, it's that the bolts were not placed with a shorty in mind. I am not short, so it was fine. My ropegun however is sub 5', and it's not entirely climbable if she needs to hang the draws.

As far as pro, I don't really see anything worth a damn above ab... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Lincoln Lake Slabs : Sport Dike (5.10)
By: highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: Above this pitch is potential for a second pitch. It is a thin, right-angling dike/seam.

There are anchors on the ledge immediately above the seam.

I put the anchors in a few years ago intending to work the moves and eventually free this line. Since the day the bolts went in in 2008, I have gotten on the route two times. I really don't have the time or inclination to do it. I am declaring this an open project to anyone who thinks it's worth their time and hardware (hell, I'll supply the hardw... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Veterans With Vertigo (5.12- R)
By: highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Just a few points to clarify, because I like accuracy:

Pitch 1, as described but more like 150'. It's easy-ish and fun.

Pitch 2, I guess it's possible to do as a huge 70m pitch, but it would flat out suck (and suck and suck). Here is your better option. Climb the finger to hand crack until it ends. Make a fairly comfortable belay here. Then lead across the "grassy ledges" to the offwidth and up. The best place to stop would be about 30 feet above where the topo suggests to belay at a stance. T... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
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re: Jungle Mayhem, grigri questionGeneral Climbinghighaltitudeflatulentexpulsion3 days ago
re: Non-Climbing Day ExerciseTraining Forumhighaltitudeflatulentexpulsion3 days ago
re: painting hangersSport Climbinghighaltitudeflatulentexpulsion3 days ago
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re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad ClimbinghighaltitudeflatulentexpulsionAug 23, 2015
re: How do you deal with crowds?General ClimbinghighaltitudeflatulentexpulsionAug 23, 2015
re: Non-Climbing Day ExerciseTraining ForumhighaltitudeflatulentexpulsionAug 23, 2015
More non-climbing exercise ideas.Training ForumhighaltitudeflatulentexpulsionAug 23, 2015
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