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Playing around in Cascade Canyon


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,507
Total Points: 133
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Theo Barker been climbing?










Contributions


All 75 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 33 | Posts 11 | Stars 9 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Zingando (5.5)
By: Theo Barker When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: I spent about an hour yesterday trying to find the right combination of moves that would make the start (as noted by Baumer's photo) less than 5.8. There was no way my partner was going to be able to make the moves, so I finally gave up. We walked down and did White Whale, which doesn't have any moves as difficult as getting to the very short tree at the beginning of the P1 crack.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: Theo Barker When: Sep 18, 2008

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Comments: Definitely calendar material. Classic!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7)
By: Theo Barker When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: Did this today with my son. Very enjoyable this time. Didn't see another soul from the time we left the BC trail, 'til we were back at the parking lot.

Used double ropes. Definitely helped with the route wandering at times. I.e. when passing the White Whale belay tree, just clipped one rope to it and had the other hanging free, clipped to pro that was further down and climbers right. Didn't quite feel up to exploring around the roof to the right. Next time...

P3, Left the belay to the left, bu... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : White Whale (5.7) : Photo
By: Theo Barker When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: This looks like the Hiatus dihedral to me....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6) : Photo
By: Theo Barker When: Sep 3, 2008

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Comments: I think that this is actually taken from the south-southeast of the crag. In the vicinity of the Black Canyon Trail. The red line is on the SW face.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Nose (5.10b) : Photo
By: Theo Barker When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: Now, what was that thread about packing heat?? That would be one time I might feel a little more comfortable with a 40 or 45 handy, just in case... :-)


Location: Danielle Lewis : Miscellaneous : Photo
By: Theo Barker When: Aug 29, 2008

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Comments: This looks much more alpine than The Pear!!! Need to give yourself a little more credit! ;-)


Location: CO : Davenport Finishes 14'er Qu...
By: Theo Barker When: Jan 25, 2007

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Comments: George, I'm not far behind you. Started in '77 with Blanca & Ellingwood. Some of the peaks (other than Long's)I've done 2 times. Long's is about 5x. Not sure I'll ever do Little Bear after this summer's epic body recovery on it...


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Theo Barker When: Apr 2, 2006

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Comments: Climbed it on April 1, 2006. Quite thin through the middle. Crux was start of second pitch going over the rock band with little to no pro. See beta photo. Chimney was fat and sustained, but not hard to climb. Good pro there. Approach was a slog, but had the entire area to ourselves.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak
By: Theo Barker When: Mar 17, 2006

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Comments: The Blanca group is actually located in the Sangre de Cristo range, not the (non-existent) Crestone Range. The Crestones are just another group in the Sangre de Cristo Range. This range runs from essentially Poncha Pass down into New Mexico (Santa Fe?) on the east side of the San Luis Valley. The northern end of the range is quite spectacular when viewed from the west along the northern end of the 'Valley.

The Blanca group includes the summits of Little Bear, Ellingwood Point, and Blanca, with ... more >>


Location: CO : Stop Unjustified Raptor Clo...
By: Theo Barker When: Mar 7, 2006

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Comments: Don't confuse me with the facts! My mind is made up. ;-)


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Unknown [Outer Gates] (5.8+)
By: Theo Barker When: Oct 16, 2005

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Comments: Between "Going to the Chapel" and CCD, I've only found 4 routes (L to R): "Altered Boy" (5.7), "Simplexity" (5.9+), this unknown route (5.9-), and "Jesus on a Stick" (5.10a). I wonder if what you thought was "Simplexity" was actually "Altered Boy"?

BTW, while I found the bulge above the huge ledge to be more challenging than getting to the first bolt (leading), my wife and son (both TR) found the bottom to be harder. I guess everything clicked for me at the bottom.

I diverged at the next-to-l... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Simplexity (5.9+)
By: Theo Barker When: Sep 30, 2005

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Comments: The route between Going to the Chapel and Simplexity is Altered Boy. If your start off the ground wasn't substantially harder than the most of the rest of the climb then you were probably not on Simplexity, but one of the unknown routes to the right of it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Theo Barker When: May 23, 2005

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Comments: Climbed on 5/21/05, along with 9 other people. Almost entirely snow climb with a little scree scrambling half way up, above the flying buttress. Only about 3 eight-foot sections of half-hearted ice. Expected more ice. Now there is a very defined boot track going up. Not sure I'd call it AI2. Most of the climbers soloed the entire route.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Durango : Cascade Creek : Cascade Canyon Main Flows (WI4-5 M4-5)
By: Theo Barker When: Jan 18, 2005

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Comments: Ok! I get it. In that case, the first picture that I posted below should read "Main Flow, March 2004, WI2-3", and the second should read "Far Left Major Flow, March 2004, WI4(?) TR or M?? on lead for the ten feet above the pillar". Thanks.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Durango : Cascade Creek : Cascade Canyon Main Flows (WI4-5 M4-5)
By: Theo Barker When: Jan 11, 2005

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Comments: The photo in the route description section shows what _was_ the main flow in March of 2004 (see action photo below). The flow to the right of it had not touched down all season. The other flow shown below from March 2004 was farthest right.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Stettner's Ledges (5.8)
By: Theo Barker When: Aug 23, 2004

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Comments: Attempted this route on the 8/21/04. Got hit by rain, sleet and snow above P5 and had to rap back down the route, leaving slings and biners. The alcove with the 4-piton ladder directly above it is shown in the Gillett "High-Peaks" book and is noted as the crux. It is very sheltered and contains rap slings and rings. The photo that Leo Paik posted as being in the crux area of P3 does not appear to be taken from the alcove. When we climbed, rain and sleet had fallen the two previous days and there... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
By: Theo Barker When: Sep 12, 2003

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Comments: There is now two large slings and two rap rings at the 100 ft. mark below the chains, when rapping toward the Left Book. Thanks to those who replaced them.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) (5.8)
By: Theo Barker When: Aug 30, 2003

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Comments: Just a note about the picture showing Sylvan Lake and the front side of this rock. The route and rap anchors are actually on the other side of the rock that is pointed to in the photo. HTH.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) (5.8)
By: Theo Barker When: Aug 28, 2003

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Comments: We thought this was a classic crack! I ended up taking my #4 & #5 Camalots with me and placed them 3/4 of the way up. Weren't necessary, but I had them and they were quicker than placing something else there. Really appreciated the "Throw West young man" advice. We had to use two ropes to rap. We had two 60m ropes (10.5mm & 8.5mm). I'd say it's a classic solid 5.7 crack.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)
By: Theo Barker When: Apr 28, 2003

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Comments: 4/27/03 - Black Lake slabs mostly covered in snow with a few places peeking out. What was visible required hacking off the sun-rot to get to the solid-blue. Looked like the West Gully might be good but with lots of snow. Couldn't really tell from across the lake.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Mo' Flo' Than Go (WI3)
By: Theo Barker When: Apr 25, 2003

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Comments: Took a look at the Loch Ice area on 4/19. The snow had all but buried the ice around to the right of Mixed Emotions. Did not look closely at Mixed Emotions tho'. Ended up TR climbing a pillar (straw) on the ESE corner of the Loch. Parking Lot wall was barely a thin coating on the rocks.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : No Mystery Here (5.7)
By: Theo Barker When: Feb 10, 2003

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Comments: The gully that you land in if you go off the back is the Vestibule and you land at the base of Tabula Rasa. The passage back to the Gates is called Inner Sanctum.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : No Mystery Here (5.7)
By: Theo Barker When: Feb 10, 2003

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Comments: No Mystery Here is on the Magical Mystery Tower. If you don't want to carry two ropes up to rap off this, and have a 60m rope, you can scramble to the other side (NW) of the Tower and rap off the anchors at the top of a couple of 5.14s. Tommy C. has the FA on them and it is the only way I'll ever get to inspect that level of route, up close! :-) Since the routes are so stiff there's rarely any traffic on that side. You lose all contact with the rock after the first 5 feet of the rappel until you... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Hole (5.7)
By: Theo Barker When: Nov 19, 2002

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Comments: One more thing. With a 60m rope you can combine Cold Fingers and P1 of the Hole (barely).


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