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Member Since: Feb 20, 2007
Last Visit: Oct 29, 2013
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Point Rank: # 3,169
Total Points: 136
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (45) | Routes (3) | Areas (1) | Photos (17) | Comments (6) | Posts (10) | Stars (7) | Ratings (1)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Passive-Aggressive Disorder

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 (1)

Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches

MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque

Oct 6, 2010

West Ridge (FA)

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a (2)

Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches

North America : Canada : ... : East Huey Spire

Oct 18, 2009

Carboman

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 (6)

Trad, 2 pitches, 200'

NC : Looking Glass Rock : Hidden Wall

Sep 8, 2009

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

East Huey Spire

North America : Canada : ... : The Cirque of the Unclimbab...

Oct 18, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Jim Toman on the fourth pitch of Passive-Aggressive Disorder.

Jim Toman on the fourth pitch of Passive-Aggressive Disorder.

MT : Paradise Valley : ... : Passive-Aggressive Disorder (5.10+ PG13)

Oct 6, 2010

Matt Seymour launching into second pitch crux under the obvious roof.

Matt Seymour launching into second pitch crux under the obvious roof.

MT : Paradise Valley : ... : Passive-Aggressive Disorder (5.10+ PG13)

Oct 6, 2010

Invisible Airwaves solo

Invisible Airwaves solo

themostdirect : Lichen is the devil.

Sep 10, 2010

East Huey Spire as seen from up Phenocryst Valley, past Terrace Tower.

East Huey Spire as seen from up Phenocryst Valley, past Terrace Tower.

North America : Canada : ... : East Huey Spire

Oct 18, 2009

East Huey Spire dominates the left side of this photo.  "Riders on the Storm" follows amazing looking crack systems just right of the massive corner system w/out snow.  The base crags are just below.

East Huey Spire dominates the left side of this photo. "Riders on the Storm" follows amazing looking crack systems just right of the massive corner system w/out snow. The base crags are ju

North America : Canada : ... : East Huey Spire

Oct 18, 2009

Ehrin climbing on the third pitch.

Ehrin climbing on the third pitch.

North America : Canada : ... : West Ridge (5.9)

Oct 18, 2009

Zach cleaning cracks and plugging gear on the fun third pitch.

Zach cleaning cracks and plugging gear on the fun third pitch.

North America : Canada : ... : West Ridge (5.9)

Oct 18, 2009

Ehrin Irvin finishing the summit scramble on East Huey.

Ehrin Irvin finishing the summit scramble on East Huey.

North America : Canada : ... : West Ridge (5.9)

Oct 18, 2009

West Ridge of East Huey Spire.  The route follows the left hand skyline.

West Ridge of East Huey Spire. The route follows the left hand skyline.

North America : Canada : ... : West Ridge (5.9)

Oct 18, 2009

Ryan Nicholson and Lee Timmons at the top of Haystack Peak's North Face.  Big Sandy and Clear lakes are behind and the Cirque of the Towers is obvious in the right corner.  Wolf's Head is lit up bright white with Pingora in front.

Ryan Nicholson and Lee Timmons at the top of Haystack Peak's North Face. Big Sandy and Clear lakes are behind and the Cirque of the Towers is obvious in the right corner. Wolf's Head is lit up brigh

WY : Wind River Range : ... : North Face (5.6)

Oct 18, 2009

The North Face of Haystack Peak.  The route follows broken shadow through any number of corners and weaknesses.  We descended by the gully that is visible, splitting the shadow, with one short rap at the bottom.

The North Face of Haystack Peak. The route follows broken shadow through any number of corners and weaknesses. We descended by the gully that is visible, splitting the shadow, with one short rap at

WY : Wind River Range : ... : North Face (5.6)

Oct 18, 2009

a couple of guys on the Petzoldt Ridge, taken from the Exum Ridge

a couple of guys on the Petzoldt Ridge, taken from the Exum Ridge

WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : Direct Petzoldt Ridge (5.7)

Oct 18, 2009

Below 'Siniestro Total' on Cerro Principal in Frey, Argentina.  Probably the best route I have ever climbed.

Below 'Siniestro Total' on Cerro Principal in Frey, Argentina. Probably the best route I have ever climbed.

themostdirect : Lichen is the devil.

Sep 5, 2009

La Vieja, with the route Sudafricana facing.  The line follows a crack left of the corner to just below the big roof.  Exit roof to the right and get in a nice offwidth.

La Vieja, with the route Sudafricana facing. The line follows a crack left of the corner to just below the big roof. Exit roof to the right and get in a nice offwidth.

themostdirect : Lichen is the devil.

Sep 5, 2009

Looking down the plumb line of 'Excelente'

Looking down the plumb line of 'Excelente'

themostdirect : Lichen is the devil.

Sep 5, 2009

First pitches of 'Excelente mi Teniente' in the the Amfiteatro, Cochamo

First pitches of 'Excelente mi Teniente' in the the Amfiteatro, Cochamo

themostdirect : Lichen is the devil.

Sep 5, 2009

Ben Deering leading off on the first pitch of Imaginate on the Campanile.

Ben Deering leading off on the first pitch of Imaginate on the Campanile.

South America : Argentina : ... : Imagínate (5.10)

May 22, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: themostdirect When: Nov 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Just wanted to put a public notice out there concerning the restoration of The Checkerboard Wall, as per first ascentionist's request:

We removed the hanger from the bolt in question on 11/17/12. The stud remains with stripped threads and needs a hammer and epoxy finish. It was not drilled perpendicularly to the rock and slopes slightly downward, preventing it from being useful without a hanger.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a) : Photo
By: themostdirect When: Oct 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Mmmm. Alpine splitter.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : North Face (5.6)
By: themostdirect When: Oct 18, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This was a fun route with great access, only a few hours from the Big Sandy trail head. There was so much feature at such a low difficulty, it didn't seem to follow any defined line, so we just picked a crack system and started going for it.

The North Face is well shaded, of course, and was VERY windy the day we climbed.


Location: International : South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : La Paloma : ... : El Jefe (5.11 C1)
By: themostdirect When: Sep 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This route is an open project. The line is beautiful and will continue to climb amazing crack systems and thin face to the top.

The C1 pitch may be retro-bolted for a free ascent as it would require a desperate 11+ lead with very thin brass.

Ben and I rapped the route from the standard rap route over Joe's Pocket Monkey and put one station above the major sickle roof and a single bolt beside a mega hollow flake for the descent.

This route has amazing diversity and will be a challenging ge... more >>


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