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Location: PA : Dauphin Narrows : South Buttress (Linoy Buttr... : Hugh's 11 (5.11a PG13)
By: The Stoned Master When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't assume there will be a rappel station set up. Be prepared to figure your own rappel out. Please be mindful of damaging the trees, use gentle techniques like bringing your own webbing/cord versus the, in time destructive, wrap your rope around the tree method (which is appealing for its simplcity but if you're reading this comment you don't have an excuse now).
You've been warned! Thank you.
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Location: PA : Dauphin Narrows
By: The Stoned Master When: Jun 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you Eric for preserving the history and sharing the beta! Your guide is thoughtful and the pictures are awesome. Thank you.
DON'T assume there will be rappel stations (chains, bolts, webbing/cord, etc) ready for you. On EVERY route be prepared to create your own rappel setup.
Maybe in time we won't need to worry about this but for now we do.
Thank you!
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Location: PA : Dauphin Narrows : South Buttress (Linoy Buttr... : Metamorphisis (5.8)
By: The Stoned Master When: Jun 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the funnest trad/mixed multi-pitch climb in Pennsylvania I've done so far.
You cannot sew up either pitch so be prepared to be calculated with your pro.
Good job Eric and Rob! Thanks for the bolts (the ease of them is welcome) and the vision.
4 out of 4 stars for the area for sure.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : White Rocks Bouldering
By: The Stoned Master When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two established boulders have directions to them. All these others pictured (as of today 6/3/2013) are up and over the ridge from Calvins Slabs, Pillar 2 and Jims Throne.
There's a lot of rock, all undeveloped. With as much rock as there is unfortunately only a handful of legit, solid "v" rated problems (potential for at this point...) exist.
Those that exist are solid and worth anyones time that is at the area. Check it out!
If you establish a route please share with us here on Mountai... more >>
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Location: PA : Pole Steeple
By: The Stoned Master When: May 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great place and totally worthy especially if you're newer to trad or are just looking for a little adventure (approach, pack in water/food, etc). Great place to practice self-rescue, anchors, ascending/descending ropes, etc.
Again not many hard lines so if you're out looking to push your limits this may not be for you (unless your limit is 5.8 or below then enjoy!). If you're looking for a cruiser day this place is great and the views are world class for sure.
For some specific routes check ... more >>
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Location: PA : White Rock Acres
By: The Stoned Master When: May 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to practice self rescue, anchors, rappeling, belaying, ascending a rope, etc this is the place to do it! Its high on a ridge (nice approach), great views, sunny but not terrible (South facing yes but plenty of trees for shade), its public land, you can take the dog (if your dog isn't very nice its ok because the chances of you running into someone else climbing is slim, but possible) and family.
Albeit this isn't an area with massive potential to be a badass "push your limits" spot... more >>
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Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Boulder "Garden" : Ancient Wisdom Boulder : Ancient Texts (V1)
By: The Stoned Master When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a sapling at the very tip top in the crack. You can exit up and left once at the tree. Going right and/or at the tree is dirty/slippery.
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Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Boulder "Garden"
By: The Stoned Master When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tons developed and tons undeveloped. No extensive trail system. Plenty of problems left to be developed! The highest concentration of boulders I've seen in PA for sure.
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Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Boulder "Garden" : Double Streak Boulder : Two Thumbs Up Crack (V1-2)
By: The Stoned Master When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack is super rough on the fingers, I found it painful with the crystals. Well worth it though! If you lock and jam just the crack I found it to be V2 difficulty but if you use the narrow edge at the base of the roof or the obvious knob out left (same height as roof) it goes at V0-V1. I did both and both are sweet. Tape reccomended.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Exploration Wall
By: The Stoned Master When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3/11/2013 - explored the wall this weekend. My friends put up 2 routes. After exploring more I think, with an eye for detail, a few quality routes are there. There is potential for a lot of "less than ideal" lines but still appreciative for the "extra" rock at Pond Bank.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Brown Rocks : Born to be Wild (5.7)
By: The Stoned Master When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some key holds had been found. 5.7 it is. Really fun route.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Exploration Wall : Pur-plex-ploration (5.7)
By: The Stoned Master When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its still dirty (the whole wall is) but enough key holds have been exposed. the roof onto the short overhanging section is fun. There is a tree on top that is stout enough for anchor, you should be able to build a gear anchor (I slung the tree but gear is a possibility).
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Exploration Wall
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is ready for some lower to moderate trad climbs to be put up. Some harder lines exist for sure (see the photos of the left most pillar/block) around the wall. Come on out, create a route and share with us here!
Also this area is setup PERFECTLY for `practicing` multi pitch. If following the way some of this wall is set up naturally it breaks down into 3 natural pitches. Create your own mountain multi pitch climbs and `practice` your anchor building and rope management skills here on y... more >>
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Brown Rocks : Born to be Wild (5.7)
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb is a lot cleaner. About 3ft (sometimes more) on either side of the crack is clean all the way up. Its not squeaky clean but it can get there. There are 2 offset opportunities. The first being right above the roof in the crack. The larger lobes of the cam would be about a .75-1 to work well there. The second is around the crux section and is a bit larger than the first.
The rock is great, my smears in winter time were bomber. Starting at the corner the second part of this climb (first... more >>
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Brown Rocks : Five Star Crack (5.8 V-easy)
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are options for top anchors and if you go ropeless exit/down climb via the chimney/alley to the East (facing the ridge). Comfortable down climb.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Brown Rocks : Born to be Wild (5.7)
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It took me 2hr 30min to clean this route today. I top roped soloed it. It can be lead just bring thin gear. There is a bomber opportunity at the crux section to place an offset cam (largest lobes being about 1 or 2 camalot sized), this would be your only beefy gear above the crack.
Awesome finger locks and jams with a hand jam thrown in there. If you're worried about leading above the roof top rope it first please to examine the placement opportunities, its a solid sporty lead for sure.
Stil... more >>
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B...
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The area layout/description above (previous comment) is for White Rocks or North of the road (when driving in, facing the ridge, on the left of the road). Here is for South of the road or Brown Rocks:
Take the 4x4 trail across from the `Rock One Area`, cross over the creek (right near the road) and at the first chance to veer/take a left do so. Follow this up (you'll see an old very small quarry like area) and keep right and follow the foot path to Brown Rocks.
Brown Rocks (closest to road ea... more >>
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Craggy Pines Area
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Up directly above the North facing wall of Craggy Pines are two overhanging roof features that may make for a nice bouldering line or 2 or 3. Check out the photos under the Craggy Pine Area.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Brown Rocks Bouldering
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are the first to send a route please share with us here on Mountain Project. Don't be afraid to add routes. This will help others tremendously and keep our beta quality here in Central, PA solid. Thank you
- in a couple of the pictures for the area you can see my trekking pole; it is 3ft 6in high. Reference point.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Exploration Wall
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was discovered, as far as I know, today. It is not mentioned in any guide book or on any web site known to me. There are no established routes at this time. The crack up the pillar looks fun, thin protection but looks doable. Also some nice left leaning cracks around the middle of the wall. Plenty of route creating opportunities. Pictures to come tomorrow.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Hidden Delights : Incidental Consequences (5.11+)
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't attempted to climb this yet (just brought to my attention). But Iwanted it out there for others because it looks fun and it seems it'll take some effort to ascend. The last known ascent (according to Schoonover`s guide) was in the early 90s. That was from 2008 at least. 80s first ascent but doesn`t mention who.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B...
By: The Stoned Master When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ANCHORS: only the `angulation` wall has bolted top anchors. There is a rappel chain inbetween `Jim`s Throne` and `Pillar 2`. If your rope gets stuck (not the best overall setup) there is a cave in the area that you can climb up/through.
You'll have to build your own anchors on top for most climbs and walk off or walk on the cliffs top to the rappel chain. There are enough options for anchor placements that most people have no problem building safe/strong anchors.
There are plenty of trees, ro... more >>
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B...
By: The Stoned Master When: Jan 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pond Bank is as frustrating at first to navigate (locate areas/routes) as the Shawangunks, New York. Locate landmarks in the photos, photos are your friend here for navigating due to so many (similar) features. Hopefully this helps:
Areas starting from closest to the parking lot (starting far south for white rocks and heading North):
Rock one (closest to forest road)
Indian rocks
Hidden delights
Lonely slabs
Last of the summer wine
Hard scramble corner
Zorro was here
Coroners south (just coron... more >>
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B... : Coroner's Area
By: The Stoned Master When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome Justin thanks! Now the beta matches the guides and rockclimbing.com. consistent beta.
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Location: PA : Pondbank (White Rocks and B...
By: The Stoned Master When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This place has at least a couple of solid, worthy routes in each grade all the way up to 5.10 (where my experience ends for now...). Cracks and face climbing mixed with features (roofs, corners, aretes, chimneys, etc) brings a healthy amount of variety.
Short Pennsylvania crags not enough adventure for you? This area is an excellent "training ground" for the multi-pitch/alpine routes of the world.
There are some fun boulder routes. So at Pond Bank you can rock out some strength/power sessions,... more >>
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